x-ray
Veteran
This was mentioned earlier and looks like a great way to process. http://www.mod54.com/collections/mod54-processor
I use a set of film drums for 4x5 up to 8x10 but they're getting pricy so if I didn't already own them I'd seriously look at this.
Unfortunately the colorplan tanks are no longer made. They were distributed by Linhof in the US and worked perfect. They didn't use much chemistry, were easy to load and never streaked. I have one and use it when I want to run up to 6 sheets. It's also adjustable for smaller size film.
Digressing to lenses, it's total nonsense about not using older lenses. Fifty years of shooting catalogs and advertising material says otherwise. I used a series III Dagor for many years to shoot Philips Electronics catalogs. It dated back to the early Dagor days and had only a natural coating from glass oxidation. No complaints from Philips. I shot them on 8x10 ektachrome and the cool was stunning. I also shot double page spreads with my 11x14 and ektachrome with a beautiful 24" Apo Ronar and red dot Artar 19".
In my gallery I have many images shot on LF done with a turn of the century B&L Protar triple convertible. I sadly sold this one but it made beautiful images.
New modern glass is a waste of money in most cases. Just my professional opinion.
By the way, the G Claron is corrected for close focus not general photography. They do perform well at infinity but are not optimized for it. Anyone as critical as the person in one of the posts should know that. And yes, I own two G Clarons and use them regularly and sadly sold my 355mm.
In all honesty speaking from experience multi coating is of little concern in LF if you share your lenses. In LF you get more light scatter internally from the bellows than you get flare from a lens.
I've owned many new modern design lenses and used them on my Technikardan 23 with a Hasselblad digital back. The Apo lenses excell with digital but that's a totally different story than film.
I use a set of film drums for 4x5 up to 8x10 but they're getting pricy so if I didn't already own them I'd seriously look at this.
Unfortunately the colorplan tanks are no longer made. They were distributed by Linhof in the US and worked perfect. They didn't use much chemistry, were easy to load and never streaked. I have one and use it when I want to run up to 6 sheets. It's also adjustable for smaller size film.
Digressing to lenses, it's total nonsense about not using older lenses. Fifty years of shooting catalogs and advertising material says otherwise. I used a series III Dagor for many years to shoot Philips Electronics catalogs. It dated back to the early Dagor days and had only a natural coating from glass oxidation. No complaints from Philips. I shot them on 8x10 ektachrome and the cool was stunning. I also shot double page spreads with my 11x14 and ektachrome with a beautiful 24" Apo Ronar and red dot Artar 19".
In my gallery I have many images shot on LF done with a turn of the century B&L Protar triple convertible. I sadly sold this one but it made beautiful images.
New modern glass is a waste of money in most cases. Just my professional opinion.
By the way, the G Claron is corrected for close focus not general photography. They do perform well at infinity but are not optimized for it. Anyone as critical as the person in one of the posts should know that. And yes, I own two G Clarons and use them regularly and sadly sold my 355mm.
In all honesty speaking from experience multi coating is of little concern in LF if you share your lenses. In LF you get more light scatter internally from the bellows than you get flare from a lens.
I've owned many new modern design lenses and used them on my Technikardan 23 with a Hasselblad digital back. The Apo lenses excell with digital but that's a totally different story than film.
chrism
Well-known
I can speak to the utility of the Mod54, but it can be fiddly to load and you have to show restraint with inversions as the film sheets can get dislodged and end up contacting each other and being ruined. I use the Paterson-supplied 'twiddle stick' and rotate the Mod54 in the tank just like the old days. No problems with uneven development as long as I do it enough.
But before buying the Mod54 (which is a bit expensive) I did dream up a homemade way of developing two sheets in a tall metal tank when I discovered that the 'taco system' was also prone to disaster. It involves cutting up a wire coat hanger and making a divider that will prevent the two sheets of film contacting each other. It works perfectly and you can invert safely. The only drawback is 900ml developer, so I tend to use it with Diafine where the cost is negligible. There are photos in this LFPF thread.
But before buying the Mod54 (which is a bit expensive) I did dream up a homemade way of developing two sheets in a tall metal tank when I discovered that the 'taco system' was also prone to disaster. It involves cutting up a wire coat hanger and making a divider that will prevent the two sheets of film contacting each other. It works perfectly and you can invert safely. The only drawback is 900ml developer, so I tend to use it with Diafine where the cost is negligible. There are photos in this LFPF thread.
clcolucci58
Established
Can't we discuss large format lenses in a new topic somewhere, please?
I'd rather hear about everyone's prefered method of 4x5 developing.
Anyone have an opinion on the HP Combi plan tank?
....Oh, and EKTAR 4 LIFE, yo!
All I wanted was advice or some hints and insight was how to develop 4x5 film in trays
Corran
Well-known
Hi,
I suggest you register at the Large Format Photography Forum and peruse the numerous threads there at your leisure. My experience is that few here on RFF shoot LF seriously or on a regular basis so at best you get anecdotal advice from less experienced people (not discounting the few that do or did, but generally speaking).
The folks at the LFPF are great and it's an excellent resource for all things LF.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Sorry I missed this thread.
I'm using regular developing tank. Single 4x5 goes in with no reel, just spindle.
It is known method. I'm using HC-110 B and it is only few minutes to develop and same or less to fix. LF isn't for rush anyway. I took two pictures yesterday and have them developed couple of hours later.
Taco method damages the negative for me, btw.
The V500 scans 4x5 as two parts by they are easyliy stichable on computer.
With some effort it is possible to get 4x5 enlarger with cost less than scanner or free.
It will do 6x9 and smaller as well.
4x5 contact prints are also good to scan.
This is 2800x2000 scan of the contact print where negative was also on the paper.
Scanned with V500.
Underwood by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Cheers, Ko.
I'm using regular developing tank. Single 4x5 goes in with no reel, just spindle.
It is known method. I'm using HC-110 B and it is only few minutes to develop and same or less to fix. LF isn't for rush anyway. I took two pictures yesterday and have them developed couple of hours later.
Taco method damages the negative for me, btw.
The V500 scans 4x5 as two parts by they are easyliy stichable on computer.
With some effort it is possible to get 4x5 enlarger with cost less than scanner or free.
It will do 6x9 and smaller as well.
4x5 contact prints are also good to scan.
This is 2800x2000 scan of the contact print where negative was also on the paper.
Scanned with V500.
Underwood by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Cheers, Ko.
gns
Well-known
You haven't seen this yet? Slow to get through, but thorough...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqm8e7gUvxY
clcolucci58
Established
Have been in that forum as well. Got some great help on the tpye of LF camnera to purchase. Guess I will just go to that forum for all things LF