5000ED + Rodinal = fail

so I've tried and it didn't fail with that combination. Films were fp4 and hp5 with rodinal 1:100 and neopan with rodinal 1:25.
I have to say that I have had the same problem with other B&W films (Tx3200; Neo400pushed+2) despite my 5000ED being new (has only done 100-200 scans maxi so far). When this has happened (very exceptionally), I have used my minolta 5400, because the 5000ED does not come with the FH-3 adapter.
The full-proof solution is to get this (expensive) adapter, or get a FH-2 which should work too.
 
I have the same problem, but I thought it was film dependent:
I shoot TX and occasionally Delta 100.
I process TX in Emofin and occasionally in rodinal 1+100, and delta in Rodinal.
My SA-21 refuses to eat the delta, but TX is ok.
I have, thanks to Brian Puccio, another tested SA-21 on my way.
I will see in a few weeks how this one behaves.
Now that I read this thread, I will also probably try to process Delta in emofin and see if that changes anything.
 
Last week I scanned a bunch of Acros developed in Rodinal with no problems and I used the 5000ED with the auto feeder.
 
FH-3 is here. A bit fiddly, but it does the job. At least I can finally see pictures from last vacation home. In all their water-spotty, dusty, and annoyingly auto-watermarked glory. :) EFKE25 manages some craaaaazy detail.

Scan-120305-0027.jpg
 
Given the cumulative description it can hardly be a issue of the scanner itself. So what is left are properties of the feeder that might react to different film treatment.

The most likely culprit seems to be that the films might have subtle, but significant differences in stiffness or bending direction depending on the process used.

And has anybody figured out how the film sensor in the feeder works? If with IR or visible light, it might still be a stain issue. Or the Rodinal developed (or the hardened) films could be particularly prone to static, which triggers the sensor (whether mechanical or optical).
 
Failed HP5 was not hardened. However, it was flatter than the successful Fuji. I am with you on the sensor reacting to something. That's actually why my first effort was to lightly scratch at the edges of the film so as to permit more sensor light to pass through. A permanent marker worked better in tricking the sensor.
 
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