B-9
Devin Bro
Here in Michigan, the snow is beginning to come less often and the weather is suggesting spring is just around the corner. I spent a good lot of my Winter sanding and shaping wood for various different projects. My favourite being the 6X7 Point and Shoot camera.
This first camera project is somewhat documented in another post.
But this is now, and I have another project in the mix that im going to share with you!
Im starting out with the same basic equipment:
Here is a quick list of the materials I will use for construction:
And dont steal my hardwork! Now lets begin!
First off, I started by cutting my Masonite into 7inch by 4 3/4inch pieces.
This is the rough dimensions of my camera body.
Shown here with both the Revolving back and Power back.
67SSD #1 by B-9, on Flickr
Next I needed to make some alterations to the Revolving back, I carefully removed the mounting studs, and will replace them with machine screws.
There is a small raised area in the bottom left corner that prevents the back from sitting flush on a flat piece of board. This needs to be filed down. There is also another tab, mid right, that also requires some shaving. Then removed both pins coming from the back. This was a little tricky but I used some wire snips and a pair of pliars. Area's filed are framed in red. The pins in green.
67SSD #2 by B-9, on Flickr
This is as far as im going for phase one of this blog!
More photo's and information to come. Updated daily!
Also another little note, If you dont have anything positive to say!
Please save me the hassle of deleting your post, and dont say it!
Curiousity and questions are always Welcome!
Thanks for viewing!
-Devin
This first camera project is somewhat documented in another post.
But this is now, and I have another project in the mix that im going to share with you!
Im starting out with the same basic equipment:
- Wollensak 90mm f6.8 W.A. Large Format lens
- Mamiya RB-67 Revolving back Adapter
- Mamiya RB-67 Pro-SD 120/220 Power back
Here is a quick list of the materials I will use for construction:
- Masonite ([4] 7in x 4 3/4in)
- 8sq ft. Fibreglass Matte (We wont use it all
) - 1qt. Fibreglass resin and hardener
- 1x2 Poplar stock about 1ft. (Wood of your choice)
- Various small metal hardware (Contact me for details)
And dont steal my hardwork! Now lets begin!
First off, I started by cutting my Masonite into 7inch by 4 3/4inch pieces.
This is the rough dimensions of my camera body.
Shown here with both the Revolving back and Power back.
67SSD #1 by B-9, on Flickr
Next I needed to make some alterations to the Revolving back, I carefully removed the mounting studs, and will replace them with machine screws.
There is a small raised area in the bottom left corner that prevents the back from sitting flush on a flat piece of board. This needs to be filed down. There is also another tab, mid right, that also requires some shaving. Then removed both pins coming from the back. This was a little tricky but I used some wire snips and a pair of pliars. Area's filed are framed in red. The pins in green.
67SSD #2 by B-9, on Flickr
This is as far as im going for phase one of this blog!
More photo's and information to come. Updated daily!
Also another little note, If you dont have anything positive to say!
Please save me the hassle of deleting your post, and dont say it!
Curiousity and questions are always Welcome!
Thanks for viewing!
-Devin
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B-9
Devin Bro
Update,
Starting the camera body, I laminated 2 of my Masonite pieces together.
After being pressed for a night (Using Titebond III) I cut the main relief by setting up a jig for my Dremel.
67SSD #3 by B-9, on Flickr
Next I set up a similiar jig to cut the front face. This face has a larger relief to allow for the lensboard/lenscone.
Now to file everything down nice and smooth
67SSD #8 by B-9, on Flickr
67SSD #7 by B-9, on Flickr
After this, I laminated the Face onto my base.
Let it press overnight (once again using Titebond III)
The next morning, I went out and set up the table saw to cut a out a relief in the bottom center of the body. This will hold the tripod foot.
The foot is made out of Poplar and is really easy to shape and drill.
67SSD #12 by B-9, on Flickr
67SSD #11 by B-9, on Flickr
Why Poplar? Well its a nice soft wood that has a good looking grain and is easily finished (paint or stain) The pieces that make up the body are not required to be structural on their own. The whole body will get a liberal coat of fibreglass and resin. Rendering the camera virtually bullet proof.
The next step is cutting and shaping the two grips. To me this was the hardest part to dial in. I wasnt sure what kind of shape I wanted or even the proper dimensions to work off of. So I grabbed a 1X2X2 of Furniture grade Poplar stock from the local Lumber yard. I then cut a 4 3/4 inch long piece. Set it against the camera, and it seems to be just right.
67SSD #13 by B-9, on Flickr
So the grips will be 1X2X4 3/4.
A simple trip to the handsaw and two 45 degree cut's later, I have my Rough Grip blank.
67SSD #14 by B-9, on Flickr
Now to hash out some of the details.
Strap lugs will be mounted inside the grip, and pressed against the body when the grips are mounted.
The lens cone will be held into place using tiny threaded sockets and Machine screws.
Keeping with the DIY theme, Ill be using Velvet and Foam weather strip for light seals.
Photo updates on Sunday!
Starting the camera body, I laminated 2 of my Masonite pieces together.
After being pressed for a night (Using Titebond III) I cut the main relief by setting up a jig for my Dremel.
67SSD #3 by B-9, on Flickr
Next I set up a similiar jig to cut the front face. This face has a larger relief to allow for the lensboard/lenscone.
Now to file everything down nice and smooth
67SSD #8 by B-9, on Flickr
67SSD #7 by B-9, on Flickr
After this, I laminated the Face onto my base.
Let it press overnight (once again using Titebond III)
The next morning, I went out and set up the table saw to cut a out a relief in the bottom center of the body. This will hold the tripod foot.
The foot is made out of Poplar and is really easy to shape and drill.
67SSD #12 by B-9, on Flickr
67SSD #11 by B-9, on Flickr
Why Poplar? Well its a nice soft wood that has a good looking grain and is easily finished (paint or stain) The pieces that make up the body are not required to be structural on their own. The whole body will get a liberal coat of fibreglass and resin. Rendering the camera virtually bullet proof.
The next step is cutting and shaping the two grips. To me this was the hardest part to dial in. I wasnt sure what kind of shape I wanted or even the proper dimensions to work off of. So I grabbed a 1X2X2 of Furniture grade Poplar stock from the local Lumber yard. I then cut a 4 3/4 inch long piece. Set it against the camera, and it seems to be just right.
67SSD #13 by B-9, on Flickr
So the grips will be 1X2X4 3/4.
A simple trip to the handsaw and two 45 degree cut's later, I have my Rough Grip blank.
67SSD #14 by B-9, on Flickr
Now to hash out some of the details.
Strap lugs will be mounted inside the grip, and pressed against the body when the grips are mounted.
The lens cone will be held into place using tiny threaded sockets and Machine screws.
Keeping with the DIY theme, Ill be using Velvet and Foam weather strip for light seals.
Photo updates on Sunday!
Last edited:
oftheherd
Veteran
Renzsu
Well-known
New project already?! Very cool, will follow this one One thing though, your images aren't showing up...
One thing though, your images aren't showing up...
B-9
Devin Bro
Yes! There are different Varieties of Poplar that you could consider "hardwood" Im sure it really depends on the region the tree is grown.
The Poplar ive been using for my projects, is most def. soft very easy to press your finger nail into and even easier to sand, a little to easy :]
@Renzu, YES another project :] I was completely satisfied with the body I made in the my previous thread, there was room for improvement.
Ive been having some trouble with the RFF uploader, even when I attach links (photo's) from outside the site (flickr) they still dont show.
Ill proly spend the time making a Flickr gallery, versus trying RFF for another fail.
Ill be sure to set up a link later today with the images I have so far.
Also will include a brief descript. on what it going on in those images.
Should be pretty straightforward.
Also, I wanted to comment on your build Renzu, My brother and I had been looking at your thread last week, and he asked me "Why doesnt he try working his idea in some wood before breaking the bank on a CNC blank?"
My brother having had alot of experience using CNC and Table cutters.
The cost of having even a simple aluminum frame cut for a camera project would blow your mind! I got quoted over 300$ 2 years ago for version on my first build post. Of course this was the price for the first, and it would be cheaper once the ball got rolling and more could be made. This was a quote from my brother's shop with the best "Hookup" I could talk my way into. Although the finished product would be worth the price im sure.
From me research and brothers input, the cost's can be broken down into a few stops. 1. Paying somone to operate the machine 2. Paying to get your idea worked into their software 3. Paying for the Actual Material's 4. Paying for the time you have to work with these people!
Most shops that I know of, dont have a dedicated CNC operator, they contract them from other shops for a few days at a time (at extrodinary pay i may add)
Have you had the chance to get an idea of who, or how much for your process?
Would be very interested in the details!
Thanks for looking, ill be sure to get the link up later this afternoon.
The Poplar ive been using for my projects, is most def. soft very easy to press your finger nail into and even easier to sand, a little to easy :]
@Renzu, YES another project :] I was completely satisfied with the body I made in the my previous thread, there was room for improvement.
Ive been having some trouble with the RFF uploader, even when I attach links (photo's) from outside the site (flickr) they still dont show.
Ill proly spend the time making a Flickr gallery, versus trying RFF for another fail.
Ill be sure to set up a link later today with the images I have so far.
Also will include a brief descript. on what it going on in those images.
Should be pretty straightforward.
Also, I wanted to comment on your build Renzu, My brother and I had been looking at your thread last week, and he asked me "Why doesnt he try working his idea in some wood before breaking the bank on a CNC blank?"
My brother having had alot of experience using CNC and Table cutters.
The cost of having even a simple aluminum frame cut for a camera project would blow your mind! I got quoted over 300$ 2 years ago for version on my first build post. Of course this was the price for the first, and it would be cheaper once the ball got rolling and more could be made. This was a quote from my brother's shop with the best "Hookup" I could talk my way into. Although the finished product would be worth the price im sure.
From me research and brothers input, the cost's can be broken down into a few stops. 1. Paying somone to operate the machine 2. Paying to get your idea worked into their software 3. Paying for the Actual Material's 4. Paying for the time you have to work with these people!
Most shops that I know of, dont have a dedicated CNC operator, they contract them from other shops for a few days at a time (at extrodinary pay i may add)
Have you had the chance to get an idea of who, or how much for your process?
Would be very interested in the details!
Thanks for looking, ill be sure to get the link up later this afternoon.
Renzsu
Well-known
^ yeah I'm now actually planning on playing with some mdf to make a working model. I'm not a woodworker, so it'll be ugly for sure.. but you're right, cnc milling costs a lot of money and since I've got a few other big expenses the coming months it doesn't look like this will be built anytime soon unfortunately. I was planning on getting a quote for a shop our office works with every now and then. They make parts for car racing and stuff, so they got all the equipment and personnel they need in house. If things get really out of hand I might have to rethink my plan though
We got a new guy joining our office soon, he's going to be our CAD guy, so I'm planning on having him check the design for feasibility and tolerances. Maybe he'll have some tips on how to cut expenses as well.
We got a new guy joining our office soon, he's going to be our CAD guy, so I'm planning on having him check the design for feasibility and tolerances. Maybe he'll have some tips on how to cut expenses as well.
pagpow
Well-known
Eager to see those photos when they come, Devin. Thanks for posting.
Giorgio
Giorgio
B-9
Devin Bro
Sounds like a idea! Go for the thinnest material you can find, they might call it Masonite when it goes to 1/4 and thinner but im pretty sure MDF and Masonite are one in the same, as far as being compressed wood fibre. Like a very thick piece of carboard paper.
The great thing about laminating thin layers together, is obvious, you can determine the cuts needed for each individual layer, so when you put them all together it makes a 3D result. Albeit a rough result, they can be sanded and worked into their correct dimensions and placement.
A good piece of advice is, worry about your internal cuts first, they are the main priority. If you make your laminates larger than the final product, it allows you to place your internal cuts exactly where they need to be and leave excess to trim off of later. Im using the same skills I use for building and pressing skateboards, only in a skateboard I would be using this to achieve a wheel well or rocker/riser support.
Fibre glass is relatively easy to work with, and is a rock solid idea for adding strength and rigidity to your project. Although be sure if you want to add firbreglass to buy the Matte (its not woven, just random firbres) Becuase depending on the weave and the direction you place this weave on your project, or in it, you can achieve flexibility versus rigidity. This is great for skateboards, but no so desirable in building these camera's. Once again I just need to say im not a master craftsman and this is purely from my experience pressing boards and random experiments in the basement shop.
Im about as new to making camera's as anyone!
If your feeling a lack of cinfidence in your ability to craft a workable wooden base, shoot me a PM and we could proly work something out where I can help you along.
Once again always great to hear from you Renzu!
and Thanks a ton Giorgio! Its possitve comments like these that keep projects alive!
The great thing about laminating thin layers together, is obvious, you can determine the cuts needed for each individual layer, so when you put them all together it makes a 3D result. Albeit a rough result, they can be sanded and worked into their correct dimensions and placement.
A good piece of advice is, worry about your internal cuts first, they are the main priority. If you make your laminates larger than the final product, it allows you to place your internal cuts exactly where they need to be and leave excess to trim off of later. Im using the same skills I use for building and pressing skateboards, only in a skateboard I would be using this to achieve a wheel well or rocker/riser support.
Fibre glass is relatively easy to work with, and is a rock solid idea for adding strength and rigidity to your project. Although be sure if you want to add firbreglass to buy the Matte (its not woven, just random firbres) Becuase depending on the weave and the direction you place this weave on your project, or in it, you can achieve flexibility versus rigidity. This is great for skateboards, but no so desirable in building these camera's. Once again I just need to say im not a master craftsman
and this is purely from my experience pressing boards and random experiments in the basement shop.Im about as new to making camera's as anyone!
If your feeling a lack of cinfidence in your ability to craft a workable wooden base, shoot me a PM and we could proly work something out where I can help you along.
Once again always great to hear from you Renzu!
and Thanks a ton Giorgio! Its possitve comments like these that keep projects alive!
B-9
Devin Bro
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dnelsonphoto/sets/72157625781143451/
Just finished uploading the photo's, feel free to comment on the photo's at Flickr, or just make a reference to the # in your question here on RFF.
Also figured out I can use BBCode here! So ive placed a few photo's in the above posts.
Just finished uploading the photo's, feel free to comment on the photo's at Flickr, or just make a reference to the # in your question here on RFF.
Also figured out I can use BBCode here! So ive placed a few photo's in the above posts.
Last edited:
B-9
Devin Bro
Just wanted to let everyone know that this is still an ongoing project!
Here in Michigan its still cold and just when we thought we might not see anymore snow BAM! we get dumped on haha.
But since its still to cold, and I have no place indoors to work with the fibreglass. Im just waiting for warmer weather. Also on the hunt for a better lens for this project. Ive since sold the Wollensak.
Im thinking about using Mamiya Press lenses, to fix a mount to a standard sized cone to allow for easier and more affordable lens options without having to use a larger cone! Sounds simple, but we'll see.
Hopefully I cant get my hands on a 90mm Mamiya Sekor lens for under a 100$ before the snow thaws
Thanks again to everyone who has commented or viewed my post.
I should have some more progress to input by mid-march HOPEFULLY
crossing my fingers on that one :] C'mon 60 degree weather
Here in Michigan its still cold and just when we thought we might not see anymore snow BAM! we get dumped on haha.
But since its still to cold, and I have no place indoors to work with the fibreglass. Im just waiting for warmer weather. Also on the hunt for a better lens for this project. Ive since sold the Wollensak.
Im thinking about using Mamiya Press lenses, to fix a mount to a standard sized cone to allow for easier and more affordable lens options without having to use a larger cone! Sounds simple, but we'll see.
Hopefully I cant get my hands on a 90mm Mamiya Sekor lens for under a 100$ before the snow thaws
Thanks again to everyone who has commented or viewed my post.
I should have some more progress to input by mid-march HOPEFULLY
crossing my fingers on that one :] C'mon 60 degree weather