75 years old... still kicking

[gshybrid]

Not me, the camera. A few weeks ago I purchased a Zeiss Super Ikomat circa 1934. The first roll of film revealed the coupled range finder to be reversed from actual focus. I had a hard time finding any help adjusting it. The later Ikontas are fairly straight forward but the Ikomat requires that you first set the rangefinder, uncouple the lens and then set the lens to match the rangefinder setting. Pretty easy with a tape meassure until it's time to re-couple the lens as the rangefinder has a tendency to slip. I think I have it dead on now, below are some scans from a test roll. Is anyone shooting color transparencies with this or a similar camera. Will I get a light leak through the 2 film advance windows? If so how do you deal with that?

 

[Robert Lai]

Well, it looks like you've got the RF properly set! Very nice pix.

 

[robklurfield]

lovely images.

 

[gshybrid]

Well, it looks like you've got the RF properly set! Very nice pix.

Yes, I'm pretty happy with the focus, hopefully it will hold. I'm still wondering about using color film and the red frame counting windows. Do I need to cover those? I'm assuming a quick look is OK.

 

[hanskerensky]

Yes, I'm pretty happy with the focus, hopefully it will hold. I'm still wondering about using color film and the red frame counting windows. Do I need to cover those? I'm assuming a quick look is OK.

If you are using film which is sensitive to red (color, panchromatic bw) you will have to be carefull with that window. Try to keep it closed as much as possible and when you have to transport the film don't hold that open window in direct sunlight but keep it in the shadow.

btw Very nice images !

 

[gshybrid]

If you are using film which is sensitive to red (color, panchromatic bw) you will have to be carefull with that window. Try to keep it closed as much as possible and when you have to transport the film don't hold that open window in direct sunlight but keep it in the shadow.

btw Very nice images !

Thanks... that's what I figured. I have 2 windows with no covers but a bit of camera tape should work. I just need a moment to advance the film. I took a look at your flicker pages... wow, it looks like you've been inside a few cameras.

 

[Steve M.]

Yes, that's how I shoot color film in my Voigtlander RF, which also has two red windows w/ no covers. Two strips of gaffers or electrical tape over the windows, and a peek to line up the number while in the shade do the trick.

 

[sig]

Yes, that's how I shoot color film in my Voigtlander RF, which also has two red windows w/ no covers. Two strips of gaffers or electrical tape over the windows, and a peek to line up the number while in the shade do the trick.

I have always believed that the backing paper is light proof.... and hence there is no need for having a closed red window. The gaffa tape was more to stop light from entering into light leaks between the pressure plate and the film (like in a Holga). And B&W film will also be affected by red light. Am I completely wrong?

thanks

 

[hanskerensky]

I have always believed that the backing paper is light proof.... and hence there is no need for having a closed red window. The gaffa tape was more to stop light from entering into light leaks between the pressure plate and the film (like in a Holga). And B&W film will also be affected by red light. Am I completely wrong?

thanks

No, you are not completly wrong. The backing paper acts like a lightseal for the sensitive filmlayer but strong light coming through that red window will find it's way to the filmlayer by reflections inside the camera. Panchromatic BW film is red sensitive but the Orthochromatic type much less and this was the film mostly used when people "invented" the red window (before WW2).

 

[jnoir]

Panchromatic BW film is red sensitive but the Orthochromatic type much less and this was the film mostly used when people "invented" the red window (before WW2).

I guess that's why cameras such as the Purma Special came with two sets of interchangeable plastic pieces for the windows, red and green, so that you can switch depending on the film you will be using...

 

[chris00nj]

I bought an Ikonta 520 A from around 1934 as well. I should get my first roll back tomorrow. I took color film and never did anything about the red window. We'll see how it turns out.

How many cameras produced today will be working in 75 years? I like the simplicity ... and art deco styling:

 

[scottgee1]

Fascinating! The pix almost look like you went back in time to make them, particularly the one of the ship.

 

[jnoir]

[...]for what reason do you think changing the colour of the window from red to green would make a difference? or be beneficial?

For the same reasons that Mr. Kerensky was pointing out. And by readings such as http://www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_C63.html , that's why I was guessing. I have never used Panchromatic film, but makes sense for me. Of course, I may be wrong and those windows were the prelude to the stickers within biscuit's boxes...

 

[Brian Levy]

How many of today's cameras will be around tomorrow? Probably a lot but how many will be working, probably none. If the proprietary batteries are unobtainable eventually that's the end play but LCD screens have a finite lige span and they too will wear out and generally will not be replaceable based on the experiences of film camera owners with cameras that have screens.

Old cameras with nothing but mechanics can for the most part be totally rebuilt as the replacement parts can be machined for most. It is only a question of economics.

 

[scottgee1]

The next generation . . .

The next generation . . .

How many of today's cameras will be around tomorrow? Probably a lot but how many will be working, probably none. If the proprietary batteries are unobtainable eventually that's the end play but LCD screens have a finite lige span and they too will wear out and generally will not be replaceable based on the experiences of film camera owners with cameras that have screens.

Old cameras with nothing but mechanics can for the most part be totally rebuilt as the replacement parts can be machined for most. It is only a question of economics.

Good points all around but only if one values making use of "old stuff".

If my grandkids are any indication, corporate brain washing is working very well; when something they have doesn't work, even if it's repairable, even if it's still under warranty(!), they pitch it and buy something new. :bang:

I continue to work to help them understand the virtures of repair/recycle. :bang: (again . . . my head hurts 🙁)