A couple of questions about the R2A?

x-ray

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I'm thinking of purchasing an R2A specifically for the Auto mode. I use Leica M's primarily but want a body with auto exposure from time to time and have become quite used to the RF of the M's over the years.

Question #1) How good is the AE mode in terms of accuracy and sensativity?

#2) The Leica has a very well defined RF patch and the Nikon S3
does not. How well defined is the RF patch compared to the M
Nikon S3?

#3) The M RF / VF is very bright under low light. How does the R2A
VF brightness compare?

#4) I understand the RF base is shorter then the M. Would it be long
enough for accurate focus with my 75 1.4 summilux at 1.4 and
close focus for head shots.
Thanks for your help!
 
x-ray said:
I'm thinking of purchasing an R2A specifically for the Auto mode. I use Leica M's primarily but want a body with auto exposure from time to time and have become quite used to the RF of the M's over the years.
Good choice for an AE RF 🙂

#1) How good is the AE mode in terms of accuracy and sensativity?
Good enough to shoot trannies in one. As battery power lessens I have noticed that the AE 'reaction time' slows down a little, but that's it.
The Leica has a very well defined RF patch and the Nikon S3
does not. How well defined is the RF patch compared to the M
Nikon S3?
The RF patch is as good/bright as a Leica if not better.
#3) The M RF / VF is very bright under low light. How does the R2A VF brightness compare?
Again, just as good.

I understand the RF base is shorter then the M. Would it be long
enough for accurate focus with my 75 1.4 summilux at 1.4 and
close focus for head shots.
The R2a has a min focus distance of .7m. I'm not sure if that's close enough for a strait headshot at 75mm? Anyway, my guess on the EBL thing for 75/1.4 wide open would be 'no', but it's just a guess. f2 would be okay.
 
I went the other way around, purchasing an M4-P after using my R2A over a summer. I kept the R2A for the AE, because it was making excellent slides.

An anecdote, RE: meter accuracy.

Last spring the wing-lynch at school was found to be overcooking all the b&w film fed to it, and since I'm the meticulous sort they asked me if I'd mind refiguring the times for the machine.

I started making "control strips" with my R2A but after a few rolls figured an SLR would make more sense, especially one with a motor drive, so I switched to modern pentax stuff and the results were suddenly all over the place. The coupling between the camera and the desired aperture just wasn't as accurate as the R2A's side/center-weighted through-the-aperture, stopped-down metering. So I switched back, and the difference was obvious.

That being said, I believe there are cameras with better meter performance in available darkness situations.

2. The R2A's rangefinder patch is a clearly defined rectangle. Not a fuzzy circle, not a yellow square, but a white rectangle, just like my M4-P. The R2A's baselength isn't as long, which should be noted. One thing people don't often mention when it comes to baselength comparison is that a 30 degree crank of the lens, for example, translates to a greater jump on your Leica than it would on a voigtlander.

3. The voigtlander family is notable for its unusually bright rangefinders. I'd put it on par with my M4-P, which is to say, it becomes too dark to take useful pictures before seeing the framelines ever becomes a problem. On the other hand, I have fairly youthful eyes.

4. This might be the killer. According to Erwin Puts (Did I just type that? I just typed that.) you need a baselength of 40.2mm to focus your 75mm summilux. (http://www.imx.nl/photosite/leica/technics/rfaccuracy.html) The Bessa R2A's is 25.6mm. Holy cats! In comparison, your M probably has an EBL of 49.32mm. (this number pulled from here: http://www.cameraquest.com/leica.htm).

So there's some food for thought. 🙂
 
Thanks for all of your answers. I need another camera like a hole in the head but I will probably go ahead and get one. I don't need the AE often but it would come in handy at times.

Thenks!
 
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