A Few E-P2 Photos

Vince Lupo said:
First 'adapted' lens shot:

Taken with a 73/1.9 Hektor wide open
Hektor1.jpg
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Oddly enough, I was just out the door to shoot the lilies growing in our backyard in the morning sun. This shot is also nice, lovely bokeh. B&W for lilies.. hmmmm... that might be an idea. But I'll shoot in color and convert in LR.
 
Thanks Jim -- and this scene is not too far from you either. It's near Havre de Grace Maryland, about 40 miles north of Baltimore.
 
Vince, are you using IS with your Hektor and did you set the focal length of the lens? I have a M-Rokkor 90mm lens and it does make a difference.
 
The IS is on, but I don't think there's any way to 'set' the focal length of the lens with this camera. Or is there a way to 'set' the lens on the E-P2? I just put the lens on the camera and started shooting.
 
There is a way on the EP-2 to "set" the focal length of the lens so that the camera knows what kind of IS to apply. Makes sense. The problems you'd have with a 21 would be very different than those with a 135.

Ben Marks
 
Um, good question. I don't think so, but maybe I just haven't delved deeply enough into the software. I will look into it and get back to you!

However, if I were to do an architectural shoot with this lens and needed to correct any distortion, I use the 'lens correction' feature in PhotoShop anyways, so it wouldn't really matter too much to me in any case.

BTW, I just finished shooting a commercial job with the E-P2 (actually a few shots for two magazine articles). I'm going to be working on them today, and I'll post the results.
 
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zleica said:
Vince,

Does EP-2 has built-in software distortion correction for Panasonic 7-14/4 lens? Thanks,
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I read elsewhere that it does not. If the distortion bothers you, you need to use some other software, as the Panasonic camera firmware/software compensates.
 
Vince Lupo said:
The IS is on, but I don't think there's any way to 'set' the focal length of the lens with this camera. Or is there a way to 'set' the lens on the E-P2? I just put the lens on the camera and started shooting.
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On my E-P1, when you open the IS options, press the exposure compensation button which allows you to set the focal length of the lens in use. I would imagine it is the same on the E-P2.
 
Finder said:
On my E-P1, when you open the IS options, press the exposure compensation button which allows you to set the focal length of the lens in use. I would imagine it is the same on the E-P2.
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Yes you're right -- I did a bit more digging and found the adjustment.

Now, stupid question -- if I'm using a 50/2 Summicron on the camera, should I dial it in as a 50mm lens, or should I make it 100mm? Does making the focal length higher increase the level of IS?
 
Vince Lupo said:
Yes you're right -- I did a bit more digging and found the adjustment.

Now, stupid question -- if I'm using a 50/2 Summicron on the camera, should I dial it in as a 50mm lens, or should I make it 100mm? Does making the focal length higher increase the level of IS?
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It is always actual focal length, so 50mm.
 
I tried it both ways. Use the actual focal length, Vince, not the calculated. It seems to make the most sense, after I played with it while.

Got my FD converter from Hong Kong yesterday and am currently using my Kiron 24/2.0 to great purpose. I always hated the results of this lens on my AE-1, but now I love it! I usually shoot manual, but if I'm on the street, I flick over to Aperture priority and can get quick results. I also switch the dials so the thumb dial near the shutter (that knurled sub-dial thing) now controls shutter speed instead of aperture, so I can work more quickly.

Here's one I just took:
4674762995_bb9bafb552.jpg


This from yesterday:
4675385352_ba041e80bd.jpg
 
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Sounds good -- thanks for the confirmation. I have to say that the black 50/2 Summicron looks entirely appropriate on the camera. Hmm...could this be a 'poor man's Leica'????

Another shot for one of the magazine stories. This one was done with the Summicron.
Berry2a.jpg
 
Vince Lupo said:
Sounds good -- thanks for the confirmation. I have to say that the black 50/2 Summicron looks entirely appropriate on the camera. Hmm...could this be a 'poor man's Leica'????

Another shot for one of the magazine stories. This one was done with the Summicron.
Berry2a.jpg
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Very vibrant and sharp. Excellent shot.

But a "poor man's Leica?" :D - Add up the $1,000 camera and the cost of that lens $1,500 (?) and you'll find few poor men with that kind of scratch! No - the true Poor Man's Leica is still the lowly Canonet QL17, GIII or regular.

IMHO.
 
The original question was about distortion correction, which I don't think has any connection to IS focal length settings. I don't know the answer, but there was an earlier thread here saying that distortion correction settings for native m4/3 lenses are encoded in the lens specs/firmware, and are applied regardless of lens/body brand. It was also said that Panny bodies correct for CA, but Oly bodies don't.

I didn't do any further searching, so I don't know if anything more definitive has been posted. I suppose it's not difficult for somebody with multiple bodies/lenses and easy access to a brick wall to check....

Link:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83955
 
I like that shot from Old Town (at least it looks like Old Town). This is really a versatile camera.

Okay, maybe not a 'poor man's Leica' -- maybe a poor man's M9? Or maybe it's just in a category all its own....that's probably more like it. Forgive my mischaracterization!
 
Just a follow-up to the distortion correction: I checked the entire menu in my camera, and I didn't see anything regarding distortion correction (in terms of some kind of setting/option in the menu). It hasn't really been a major problem for me personally, except when shooting in close quarters with the 7-14mm lens set at 7mm. Understandably, I think any lens that width will exhibit distortion, so it' not really a big deal for me - I just kinda work around it and realize that the lens doesn't really work in certain situations (particularly if there are people in the shot).
 
If I understand correctly, the distortion correction is automatic, without menu-driven user settings/controls. The lens tells the body what it is, and what distortion corrections are necessary at which focal lengths. The body encodes the required correction in RAW files and applies the correction to in-camera jpegs.

If you only shoot jpegs you won't see the corrections, since they're done automatically. If you shoot raw, you'll only see the before/after if you use a raw utility that will ignore the encoded corrections. Photoshop/Lightroom automatically apply the corrections to raw files using native Adobe raw utilities. There are some raw file utilities that will ignore the encoded corrections, and so allow before/after correction viewing.

One of the "benefits" of digital technology is the ability to compensate for uncorrected optical faults through intelligent in-camera image processing. Common issues like linear distortion, vignetting, chromatic aberration, soft corners, etc, can be automatically corrected by the processing engine. That allows lenses to be smaller and/or cheaper without sacrificing output quality, and can yield output files that need less post-processing.

I think m4/3 implements this today better/further than DSLRs.

I put quotes around "benefits" because, as always, there's some controversy. Some folks don't want their raw files pre-tweaked...
 
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