A funny story about the metered Kievs and the Gossen Pilot

R

ruben

Guest
I am not sure if to laugh or to cry.

Long time ago I purchased a cheapy Gossen Pilot, which can be seen as the sellenium version of the actual Digisix, although if I am not wrong it is even smaller. Not to speak that it is less than half size of the Sekonic L-308.

Within the limitations of Gossen design, regarding making the dials as hard as possible to read, the Pilot enjoys a bit more of simpliciy. Not that Gossen designers took care to make either the f/stops or the speeds scale against a black background, as they apparently had no time for miscellaneous details. But at least they took care not to mess the basic numbers too much, perhaps for the same reason, this time favouring the users. Fine, let's move on.

At one corner of the pointer field there is a white dot. What the hell is this white dot for ? The best my mind could imagine, is that when the meter is not working it should rest at that extreme white point, which is partly true provided the meter has been propperly calibrated. But my meter never did.

So I calibrated it against my Sekonic and the readings went not bad for a narrow spectrum of light. I can fairly assume previous users of this meter did the same.

But lately, upon reading, fixing and trying the meter at the Kievs, I came to learn that to calibrate a Kiev meter you should close the meter door, bring the lights of the room low and then, using the screw bring the pointer to the black dot. That black dot over the mark "4".

Thus some minutes ago, it crossed my mind that perhaps the white dot of the Pilot serves for the same purpose. So I turned the screw not to match another meter reading but to reach that white dot, and, Bingo !

Now my Pilot can read incident readings of a very well lighted room at night, very close to the Sekonic. And this is very much that f/2 at 1/30 capability that I need for my Kievs.

Now, before you run desperately to the Bay, kindly take care of pushing the sellers against the wall, with questions concerning the well being of the meter, and re-fund policies. Sellers themselves may have no idea about what the white dot is for, and I advise not to tell them in order to keep prices low. But you can ask if meter responds to light, etc. (*)

A fair price for a Bay working meter should be between 20 and 40 dollars. A seller out there selling for a hundred and over, may be either crazy, or testing if you are.

The Pilot is a shoe mount meter, with dismountable shoe, and comes with an armour like case, which most of the chances you will not like to bear. But finding a Pilot with a shoe, or a shoe alone, is rather challenging. The Pilot comes in three versions: 1) lacking the white dot for calibration, 2) with the white dot, 3) with the white dot, but called "Pilot 2". In Europe the Pilot was sold as "Sixtino". The "Gossen Super Pilot" is a totally different and bigger beast.

Cheers,
Ruben

(*) And don't forget that Aussie sellers at eBay are the best of the Planet !
=========

Dear Noel,
If you manage to show self restrain and not punnishing me here, I promise you an even better mea culpa tomorrow, regarding some spring at the Kiev 4AM winding spool.
 
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I like my pilot so much I (like a fool) bought a replacement selenium cell for it from Gossen. This was about seven years ago, they may not have any more.
thirty dollars back then.
Works like a champ!
 
I have a CdS meter called Gossen Sixon and it also has this white dot, and also can be calibrated to match the needle with the dot when the meter is turned off.

Maybe I should go look for the sixtino... 😀
 
Got a Gossen Luna Pro that I inherited from my grandmother. Still seems to take accurate readings. I am now actively searching for a pilot. Damn you Ruben, first Kievs and now you got me searching for lightmeters!!!😛

Actually, since we are discussing lightmeters I too have a funny story. Our cameras here at the TV station are Auto-Iris. I usually turn it off after taking a few sample readings, because, most of the time you have a bright object enter the frame and the auto function stomps the iris down and it is just annoying. Anyway, I was explaining this to one of our newer photogs. I said that I really just used the auto iris function as a lightmeter. I would take a couple readings with the auto to figure out what the camera thought the f stop should be and then used my brain to figure out the rest. The photog then looked and me and asked
"What is a lightmeter?":bang:
 
TVphotog said:
...... I am now actively searching for a pilot. Damn you Ruben, first Kievs and now you got me searching for lightmeters!!!😛 ...


hi Ken,
Today my Pilot awaked dead, and I have had no time to check it.

But in any case my advice to you is don't make any move until I get my new Kiev selenium cell from Oleg, and upon it I check different and interesting ideas to overcome genereal Kiev meter limitations.

Cheers,
Ruiben

Anyway the bay is always crowded with Pilots, and upon some 90 folks that have read this thread you may expect a lot of bidding competition, these days.
 
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Hi Ruben I am weriting from Sixtino-land! So did you make the zero setting in subdued light? I had 2 Sixtinos an both broke....Just like some flags a Sixtino should never touch the ground!
Could you post a picture of the shoe, as I desperately want either to find one or to make one myself?
By the way to you know a lightmeter named Jonan Mini?
Best regards from Vienna!
Des
 
Hi Des,
Yes, the zero setting should be done at subdued light and fully covering the cell so that no light at all reaches the cell.

My Pilot arrived from overseas broken during transit, with the pointer navigating outside. It is possible to fix such kind of damage.

I do not have a shoe for the meter, look at eBay. Any way if I was building my substitute for a shoe, I would start from finding a fitting screw, then a spacer, and then some kind of rubber or leather band, as to make it look as a hand clock. (I am on the uderground type of photography).

Cheers,
Ruben
 
ruben said:
Dear Noel,
If you manage to show self restrain and not punnishing me here, I promise you an even better mea culpa tomorrow, regarding some spring at the Kiev 4AM winding spool.
Ruben
I've only tried to help you. & I've been scolded (by Kully) that my posts are too cryptic.
Noel
P.S. I think I'd describe 'moving the black dot' as zeroising the meter, and calibrating it, is moving the position of the variable resistor arm or altering the fixed resistor, or both.
P.P.S. You should have a photocopy of the meters origional instruction manual
 
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Xmas said:
Ruben
I've only tried to help you. & I've been scolded (by Kully) that my posts are too cryptic.
Noel
P.S. I think I'd describe 'moving the black dot' as zeroising the meter, and calibrating it, is moving the position of the variable resistor arm or altering the fixed resistor, or both.
P.P.S. You should have a photocopy of the meters origional instruction manual


Hi Noel,
You are right on these.

As for the Kiev 4AM spring, since I am not still writing about the whole issue of frame spacing and the 4AM, I advance that there is a spring I didn't noticed, regulating the friction of the fork.

It was buried so deep that it was hard for me to notice, and it is so stiff that I wasn't able to notice it by tact either.

The whole logics of the Kiev (Contax ?) frame advance starts to seem to me as a big bug of basic design, this sending me to Ash for a third or fourth apologies. But I will like to learn and practice more about it.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben

If you need to shorten the spring, measure its length with a vernier caliper and use a file. They are real difficult to squeeze, if you want to ignore me use safety glasses, or buy a dog.

Noel
 
Hi Noel,
By now i don't think the problem of the take up fork is in the size of the spring, or it being stiff or soft. The problem seems to be in finding the right tension enabling both winding and rewinding and adjusting that tension to last both movements.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben

In my Kievs the spring controls the friction in the take up clutch, it was Oleg or one or the other Ru mechs who suggested squeezing the spring, and this is difficult with my hand tools. Simpler is a file to reduce the friction or another washer to increase the friction.

Noel
 
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