A Good Flash Setup for the R-D1

S

Sean Reid

Guest
Flash and zoom lenses...I don't really like either one but sometimes they're necessary (or prudent) tools to have. I've avoided using flash on the R-D1 until now but have recently come up with a combination that works quite well. Members of this forum with a few grey hairs may recall the venerable Vivitar 285. Along with it's smaller sibling the 283, it's probably lit more press photos in the past two decades than any other unit. I used to use a 283 with my Graphlex Crown Graphic for documentary work in the early 90s.

Any way, the 285 is a cheap, widely available and powerful unit that includes some very handy features. First of all, it's sensor is removable and can be mounted on camera via a cord while the flash is held off camera. The flash can then be aimed or bounced in all kinds of directions while the sensor reads the light that is reaching the camera (so that it can control the flash). See picture below to get an idea of the setup. The 285, in addition to having lots of juice and that nifty remote-sensor option, has variable auto power levels as well as variable manual power. The head zooms for wide, normal and tele focal lengths and there's a diffuser panel for 28mm FOV. It can also take a remote power pack if desired. I use a Wein safe-synch to protect the R-D1 and this whole setup might also work well for the Digilux 2.

I'm going to start working again in a flash/zone focus mode, R-D1 zone focused at F/8 or F/11 in my right hand, flash hand-held in my left hand - fast and fluid. To cock the shutter, I press the left side of the camera against my body for a moment and flick the shutter cocking lever with my right thumb. Sometimes I need to move the aperture a stop or two to tweak things but the system seems to work well so far. The flash is really too big to mount on the R-D1 itself but it could be used on a Stroboframe or the like - I prefer handheld.

How much for all this old-school high tech? $64.14 for the flash and remote cord, via E-Bay courtesy of a retired engineer lady named Bess. There are more of them out there for anyone else who's game. Just don't forget the Wein (and cheese and crackers?)
 
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I find it awkward to handhold a such big flash directly. I guess it's the form factor, and it's worse with a Metz flash which protrudes far forward from its shoe mount. So I've put it on a lightweight aluminium center column removed from a very cheap tripod. I can now hold the column with my left hand fingers while my left thumb is still supporting the back of the camera.
 
I forget who the photographer was, but a few years ago I read about someone using a BATTER'S GLOVE with the flash attached (flash is flat, not in bounce position) onto the top of the hand and he would make a fist and point the flash to where he wanted the light.

This would work with the Vivitar 285 setup that Sean detailed above. So you don't have to "hold" the flash, it is attached to the top of your left hand with the head facing out over your knuckles when it is clenched into a fist.

I've never tried it, but in this article this guy swore by it.
 
The batters glove is in interesting idea but I must have sort of large hands because I don't really mind holding it at all.

Cheers,

Sean
 
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Yeah, I haven't done the batters glove thing myself, but seemed like a good idea. On my EOS I use the infrared off camera flash device which is wireless. When I used the old Canon Off Camera Cords and the Nikon SC-17s I'd tuck the flash between my legs or under my arm when I wasn't using it.
 
Sean
I've been shooting with my Bessas [R2, R2a and T] and a 283 [I have seven of them] for some time.
Now I also have an RD-1 will contine to do so, however your post has prompted me to acquire a wein safe-sync!
I use the off camera cord a lot , often for slow speed sync , with the camera [R2a] on auto -1/2 stop and the aperture set to 1/2 to 1 stop less than that chosen on the 283.
Some useful additions to this set up:
A home made wrist strap for the flash [velcro 1/4" bolt and a dead shoe] means that you can let go of the flash to focus, change film/cards, write captions or anything else.
A stofen sensor shield stops the sensor being fooled by direct ligh from the flash.
A stofen omni-bounce works really well, or the stofen two-way bounce, the first with wides, the second for more light but no ceiling/ wall to bounce from, the last is fantastic for just filling in eye sockets and giving catchlights when there IS a ceiling/wall!
A second 283 with a wein slave held by an assistant works great as long as you use a sensor shield and set one as the "main light"
You can also chain several sensor leads together, and have an assistant hold the "main" flash, or put it on a stand wth an umbrella/softbox.
I stole all of these 283/285 ideas, and a load more from a great book [out of print] called "adventures in location lighting" by Jon Falk , worth looking for!
Finally if the 285 seems just TOO big on occasion [bigger than my 283s] then try a 2500 [half the power, half the size, only 2 auto stops] either on or off camera, works fine much of the time!
Oh yeah, and if you are fed up with changing AA batteries every 30 frames [or waiting for ever tt recycle] you can pick up a quantum bantam battery with cord for less than USD 50, and this will do 200 frames!
Who needs TTL anyway?
Best
Clive
 
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