oscroft
Veteran
After more than 25 years (during which time I've forgotten a lot), I'm about to start b&w developing again, so I'd appreciate opinions on a couple of questions. (And sorry if these are beginner questions that have been covered here before - I looked but couldn't find anything)
Firstly, I'm thinking of using good old favourite ID-11 - does that sound like a good plan for starters?
Looking at devloping times for ID-11, I see for many films (eg the FP4 and HP5 that I'll be using) you can use it neat, 1+1, or 1+3. Apart from the developing times, what difference will that make? (I presume there must be a difference, otherwise people would surely use 1+3 all the time to save money?)
Thanks,
Firstly, I'm thinking of using good old favourite ID-11 - does that sound like a good plan for starters?
Looking at devloping times for ID-11, I see for many films (eg the FP4 and HP5 that I'll be using) you can use it neat, 1+1, or 1+3. Apart from the developing times, what difference will that make? (I presume there must be a difference, otherwise people would surely use 1+3 all the time to save money?)
Thanks,
palabras
Established
Well, Oscroft, there are many ways to begin developing. ID-11 is good, Rodinal too.
Maybe Rodinal is easier, because you don't have to reuse it, it can be kept everywhere (almost no problem with the hot temperature of this period) and lasts for years if the bottle is closed.
Rodinal gives more grainy images and is permissive.
About dilutions: the more you dilute a developer, the less contrast you get. This is true for many developers (for Rodinal it is) but not for all.
I always suggest to have negatives not much contrasted, because you can add contrast during printing, using harder papers or ( aaaaagh
) with photoshop
Maybe Rodinal is easier, because you don't have to reuse it, it can be kept everywhere (almost no problem with the hot temperature of this period) and lasts for years if the bottle is closed.
Rodinal gives more grainy images and is permissive.
About dilutions: the more you dilute a developer, the less contrast you get. This is true for many developers (for Rodinal it is) but not for all.
I always suggest to have negatives not much contrasted, because you can add contrast during printing, using harder papers or ( aaaaagh
) with photoshop
FPjohn
Well-known
One shot
One shot
Hello:
ID11 or D76 1:1 or 1:3 are one shot developers which yield crisper grain than use at full strength. Consistancy is also an advantage of the one shot approach.
Best of light.
Frank
One shot
Hello:
ID11 or D76 1:1 or 1:3 are one shot developers which yield crisper grain than use at full strength. Consistancy is also an advantage of the one shot approach.
Best of light.
Frank
oscroft
Veteran
Hi folks, thanks for the info. I vaguely remember using ID11/D76 diluted in the past, but I didn't remember the dilution. And yes, the "more dilute = lower contrast" bit rings a bell now.
I'm not sure about always going for lower contrast though. I remember never being able to get pleasing contrast at the printing stage if the negative contrast was too low - I think it's a different quality of contrast you get at the two stages (if that makes sense). I've just been reading about Rodinal, and it sounds like it might be fun to try too (I might try it first, in fact).
I won't be doing any darkroom printing, so it'll be soup & scan for me from now on (I've got no problem at all using computer technology in place of enlargers and chemicals - they're just different tools for doing the same job, imo).
Thanks again,
I'm not sure about always going for lower contrast though. I remember never being able to get pleasing contrast at the printing stage if the negative contrast was too low - I think it's a different quality of contrast you get at the two stages (if that makes sense). I've just been reading about Rodinal, and it sounds like it might be fun to try too (I might try it first, in fact).
I won't be doing any darkroom printing, so it'll be soup & scan for me from now on (I've got no problem at all using computer technology in place of enlargers and chemicals - they're just different tools for doing the same job, imo).
Thanks again,
John Bragg
Well-known
Hi Oscroft, Rodinal is well worth a try. Reduced agitation helps to control contrast and the appearance of grain in the print or scan. At 1:50 dilution or above, you can boost shadow detail whilst keeping a better control of highlight densities. I give an initial 30 seconds agitation and thereafter only 2 inversions at the start of each subsequent minute. Works for me...... J.B.
oscroft
Veteran
Thanks for the tips - Rodinal it is to start, then
Best,