sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
Do we really need a meter with our older Ms?
Maybe I'm getting old and crusty but I can't help but think they're not important at all.
I've got two working meters. A hand held Gossen and the current Voigtlander but I barely use either of them
Maybe I'm getting old and crusty but I can't help but think they're not important at all.
I've got two working meters. A hand held Gossen and the current Voigtlander but I barely use either of them
RichW
Established
No
I had a voigtlander VC Meter II and call me stupid but I couldn't use it properly, most of my images came out underexposed and I couldn't figure out why so now I just guess, but then I mostly use black and white film and it's not necessary to be exact anyway
Cheers,
Richard
I had a voigtlander VC Meter II and call me stupid but I couldn't use it properly, most of my images came out underexposed and I couldn't figure out why so now I just guess, but then I mostly use black and white film and it's not necessary to be exact anyway
Cheers,
Richard
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I get my most accurate film exposures when I use an incident light meter, but half the time I just guess. I've been doing it so long I'm only rarely off by more than a half stop.
kshapero
South Florida Man
sunny16, baby.
ruby.monkey
Veteran
I find that I never need a meter until I do, regardless of body. YMMV.
sleepyhead
Well-known
I carry a small incident meter in my pocket and take a quick reading once in a while (like if I move from sun to shade, or indoors to outdoors).
In between readings, I gueses the small variations in lights.
My results are fine for negative film.
If I shot positive film, however, then I think I would be more meticulous with the meter - I don't like those blown highlights...
In between readings, I gueses the small variations in lights.
My results are fine for negative film.
If I shot positive film, however, then I think I would be more meticulous with the meter - I don't like those blown highlights...
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I almost never use a meter when shooting with my M4-P.
I bring a small Sekonic lightmeter but rarely have to use it.
Like Akiva said above: Sunny 16 rulez!
I bring a small Sekonic lightmeter but rarely have to use it.
Like Akiva said above: Sunny 16 rulez!
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
A very spontaneous shot of one of my daughters. No meter... M4-P, 21mm Super-angulon
ChrisN
Striving
Ahh, but to make a fine print you need a fine negative! Your chances will be better if your vision is supported with good exposure, good film, and good development. If you have the time, why not use a meter?
Gareth Rees
Established
Ahh, but to make a fine print you need a fine negative! Your chances will be better if your vision is supported with good exposure, good film, and good development. If you have the time, why not use a meter?
__________________
Chris
I completely agree.
__________________
Chris
I completely agree.
mdarnton
Well-known
I used to shoot bare, no meter, for about 30 years. Recently I'm using a Nikon FG with a meter. I thought I was doing fine without, but as I compare strips of film from then and now, I guess I wasn't as good at guessing as I thought I was. I wonder how many people who think they have meters in their brains are in the same boat as I was, and don't know it, as I didn't.
thegman
Veteran
For slide film, yes. For colour negative, maybe not. Also I guess it depends on your skill levels and also your standards. I don't mind a bit of over exposure here and there, but if I want to take my time and really try to take a good shot, then I'll meter.
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃı&
I agree with this.
emayoh
Established
My in-head metering scheme with my M2 is very, very complex. But, now here for the first time I can share it with the world. I believe this method covers all the bases, and you're welcome to adapt it to your own situation:
I start with a guess. Now, many of you will accuse me of being half-assed, but I really am diligent. Listen: First, I subtract a stop for my bad eyes. Then, I add a stop and a half to protect the highlights, subtract a stop because it's expired film, subtract a stop because it's a hazy lens, add a stop to squeeze out some more depth of field, subtract a stop for luck, add a stop for love. Then I add a half a stop because the sun has gone down during my all my figuring. Of course, I subtract a stop because I'm not sure if my developer's fresh. Finally, I add one final stop to to amp up the mysterious drama. Then, and only then will I squeeze the shutter to allow just the right amount of light into the box.
I'm still looking for a meter that can handle these calculations reliably.
I start with a guess. Now, many of you will accuse me of being half-assed, but I really am diligent. Listen: First, I subtract a stop for my bad eyes. Then, I add a stop and a half to protect the highlights, subtract a stop because it's expired film, subtract a stop because it's a hazy lens, add a stop to squeeze out some more depth of field, subtract a stop for luck, add a stop for love. Then I add a half a stop because the sun has gone down during my all my figuring. Of course, I subtract a stop because I'm not sure if my developer's fresh. Finally, I add one final stop to to amp up the mysterious drama. Then, and only then will I squeeze the shutter to allow just the right amount of light into the box.
I'm still looking for a meter that can handle these calculations reliably.
kbg32
neo-romanticist
You really don't need a meter with negative film. Experience is all you need. Keep shooting. Use one film. Make mistakes. You'll get there quick enough.
Dirk
Privatier
You don't need a meter if you have the experience to accurately guess exposure. I found using a hand-held meter (in my case an iPhone with a light meter app) teaches me to evaluate exposure without it. But you need to use it until you can do it yourself.