ABLON copy

[Ade-oh]

Does anyone know of a good substitute for the Leica ABLON film trimming template? Originals are now going for ludicrous amounts on Ebay - I recently saw one at 165GBP - and I recall various companies have made copies over the years.

 

[Timmyjoe]

I always just cut the film by hand, with a scissors. I didn't find that it had to be "exact" when using my Leica iiif. And I agree, the price for those couple pieces of joined metal is insane.

 

[xayraa33]

If you have access to an electric grinder of the pedestal or bench type and some metal files and a hack saw you can make one from a 4.5 or 5 inch long door hinge that is available at any hardware or ironmonger shop.

Just cut and grind or file 4 inches on one side of the hinge that closes flush with its partner 3/4 inch deep and bring the corner cut to a gentle 1/2 inch radius.

 

[Dralowid]

Amongst others Photax made them.

 

[xayraa33]

Amongst others Photax made them.

Prinz also made copies of them, usually stamped with the "Prinz" name and made in Korea.

 

[burancap]

Ditto on Prinz. Frankly, even with one in the drawer, I always just reached for scissors.

 

[Ronald M]

It is very easy to cut the what ends up being the film leader. Leave proper number of sprocket holes and do not cut through the holes and make a smooth curve so as as not to make a place for a tear to start.

Now to make the point that goes into the LEICA cassette, IMPOSSIBLE without the ALBON. It centers the film , makes the penetration depth correct and auto stops, and makes it easy to pull the waste through when reloading.

But to make a leader, you need nothing but sharp scissors

 

[Richard G]

I have Jeff's Prinz. I used it recently, but only because I'd bought a new tiny Swiss Army knife with scissors and a very small blade. The small blade was much better with the Prinz than the blade on my larger pocket knives or the Leatherman. But the current roll in the Leica II I bought from Jeff I cut with the little scissors "in the field."

The ABLON or equivalent might be necessary for bulk-loading in the darkroom, including the symmetrical point for insertion into a Leitz cassette spool, or for preparing multiple commercial rolls having got very slick at using it. Otherwise, in the light, it is only for communing with the ghosts of photographers past.

 

[Robert Lai]

I use the Prinz one with a scalpel. Very fast to use, and loading is flawless in my Barnack cameras.

 

[Luddite Frank]

Wasn't there a copy included with most Watson 66 bulk film loaders ?

 

[gb hill]

I have one of those handy-dandy templates that was included with my Zorki 2c I bought off the bay. Maybe I should sell it on ebay for an enormous price.😀

 

[dourbalistar]

I use the Prinz one with a scalpel. Very fast to use, and loading is flawless in my Barnack cameras.

I just got a Prinz cutting guide, but I must be a numbskull because I can't figure out how to orient/use it. Mainly, I can't seem to figure out what to do with the long tapered/pointed end of the guide. 😕

Could somebody who uses the Prinz guide post a photo? Thanks in advance!

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

Google Prinz cutting guide, tons of pics showing how to use it.

 

[dourbalistar]

Google Prinz cutting guide, tons of pics showing how to use it.

I did search Google. I found many photos of the Prinz cutting guide itself, but none showing it in actual use.

With the ABLON, the triangular end of the guide butts up against the light trap of the film cassette, but the same end of the Prinz guide has a much longer, tapered "tongue". Seems to me that pulling the film out of the cassette past the long tapered end would be longer than needed, so that's the part I can't seem to figure out. :bang:

 

[David Hughes]

I did search Google. I found many photos of the Prinz cutting guide itself, but none showing it in actual use.

With the ABLON, the triangular end of the guide butts up against the light trap of the film cassette, but the same end of the Prinz guide has a much longer, tapered "tongue". Seems to me that pulling the film out of the cassette past the long tapered end would be longer than needed, so that's the part I can't seem to figure out. :bang:

Hi,

That might be the Contax version but that's from memory so beware but does it matter? You'll be exposing a frame or two beyond the cut leading edge.

The triangle and long tongue were for the reloadable cassettes, not needed - obviously - for commercially bought film.

Regards, David

 

[traveler_101]

It is very easy to cut the what ends up being the film leader. Leave proper number of sprocket holes and do not cut through the holes and make a smooth curve so as as not to make a place for a tear to start.

Now to make the point that goes into the LEICA cassette, IMPOSSIBLE without the ALBON. It centers the film , makes the penetration depth correct and auto stops, and makes it easy to pull the waste through when reloading.

But to make a leader, you need nothing but sharp scissors

I concur with the above. I use a pen to make a line between the 22nd and 23rd sprocket holes. Key (as has been stated): do not cut through the sprocket holes. I make a slight S curve smoothly turning the scissors to approach the gap between the sprocket holes perpendicular to the edge of the film. It helps to have the compact round-pointed scissors used to cut paper.

I don't use a Leica cassette. Edit: I use a IIIf.