MelanieC
Well-known
They're both broken then. Well, that sucks but I guess it would explain why I got this setup for $3.75 on eBay. Caveat emptor!
I'll head down to the closest camera shop tomorrow and get some new reels, and then we're cookin'!
Thanks again guys. You rule.
I'll head down to the closest camera shop tomorrow and get some new reels, and then we're cookin'!
Thanks again guys. You rule.
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Break a leg as the saying goes. Be prepared for a great feeling when you see the results of the first succesful roll!
Kim
PS
I must remember to read all the pages in the morning and not just the first one DOH! :bang:
Kim
PS
I must remember to read all the pages in the morning and not just the first one DOH! :bang:
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I agree with Kevin regarding stainless steel reels. I used plastic (Paterson) when I started out and ended up hating them and ditching them. SS seems harder when you first use one, but once you practice with a waste roll a few times, you get the hang of it and the film almost "walks" itself on the reel.
Plus, solution quantities for SS tanks are smaller and in increments (~500ml per roll of 35mm) that are easier to mix.
Earl
Plus, solution quantities for SS tanks are smaller and in increments (~500ml per roll of 35mm) that are easier to mix.
Earl
jonasv
has no mustache
Are you saying SS tanks (uh, that would be stainless steel tanks.. SS tanks sounds weird) need 500ml per roll of 35mm film? Perhaps I misunderstand, but my Paterson (plastic) only needs 290ml per roll.
MinorTones
Well-known
Forgot the Hypo Clear
Forgot the Hypo Clear
You got developer, stop bath and photo flow. You are missing the hypo clear. It stops the action of the fixer, which is a pretty important step.
After you pick some of that up, have fun.
Seeing those wet negatives pulled out of the fixer, and knowing you did it all right is a rewarding experience.
-Mitch
Forgot the Hypo Clear
You got developer, stop bath and photo flow. You are missing the hypo clear. It stops the action of the fixer, which is a pretty important step.
After you pick some of that up, have fun.
Seeing those wet negatives pulled out of the fixer, and knowing you did it all right is a rewarding experience.
-Mitch
markinlondon
Elmar user
MinorTones said:You got developer, stop bath and photo flow. You are missing the hypo clear. It stops the action of the fixer, which is a pretty important step.
-Mitch
Mitch, Melanie,
hypo clear is not required for roll film, washing dilutes the fixer so much that it stops. Anyway, overfixing within reason is not that much of a problem with modern emulsions. Hypo clear really comes into its own with fibre papers which soak up huge amounts of fixer where it helps to speed up the washing process (which is still pretty darn long).
Mark
S
Stu :)
Guest
If your've started with plastic, stick with plastic. I've used both and prefer the plastic reels and tanks. Why cough up another odd $20 for a new tank and reel set when you just starting out, where as a another plastic reel might cost $2 to $5. If you get the the hang of it and curious, give stainless steel tanks and reels a go.
If you do decide to go buy another plastic reel, see if you can get an older AP reel rather than a Patterson type. The old APs had much bigger film pick ups than the Pattersons and makes life easier for beginners. 90% of the people I've taught basic darkroom theory to have had trouble with film loading rather than chemisty, water, drying problems etc, etc.
Also practice loading the film without looking at it. Sit down and 'watch' TV, and practice. Learn to do it by feel and sound... yes sound. You'll know that your reel isn't dry when it makes a certain squeak and can avoid causing the film to buckle.
It's almost similar to stereotypical view of a US Marine stripping and re-assembling his combat rifle blind-folded. He's in the dark, so are you.
The KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) approach to starting out in the joys and frustrations of Black and White photography is best. When I started out almost two decades ago (gosh I feel old) all I had was devloper and fix, I didn't have stop, let alone wetting agent. Roll after roll of FP4+ came out fine.
In my time I've never had any problem with over fixing film, some pedantic FB papers yes, but never film. Hypo Clearing agent is best if you live some where where water supply is limited, I still find three full tank flushes and a 20 minute wash is best. And of course your wetting agent at the end.
But not anywhere near powdered fix or Kodak bleach And I'll second the ENJOY.
Stu
P.S. Like your taste in notebook computing
If you do decide to go buy another plastic reel, see if you can get an older AP reel rather than a Patterson type. The old APs had much bigger film pick ups than the Pattersons and makes life easier for beginners. 90% of the people I've taught basic darkroom theory to have had trouble with film loading rather than chemisty, water, drying problems etc, etc.
Also practice loading the film without looking at it. Sit down and 'watch' TV, and practice. Learn to do it by feel and sound... yes sound. You'll know that your reel isn't dry when it makes a certain squeak and can avoid causing the film to buckle.
It's almost similar to stereotypical view of a US Marine stripping and re-assembling his combat rifle blind-folded. He's in the dark, so are you.
The KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) approach to starting out in the joys and frustrations of Black and White photography is best. When I started out almost two decades ago (gosh I feel old) all I had was devloper and fix, I didn't have stop, let alone wetting agent. Roll after roll of FP4+ came out fine.
In my time I've never had any problem with over fixing film, some pedantic FB papers yes, but never film. Hypo Clearing agent is best if you live some where where water supply is limited, I still find three full tank flushes and a 20 minute wash is best. And of course your wetting agent at the end.
rover said:
But not anywhere near powdered fix or Kodak bleach
And I'll second the ENJOY.Stu
P.S. Like your taste in notebook computing
MelanieC
Well-known
I haven't had any luck with the reels. I can't get them to come apart any other way than the way they come apart. They're supposed to be adjustable (and they have to be, because I have 120 film to develop as well). I wish I hadn't already left good feedback for the eBay seller, even though that seems petty since the whole bit plus shipping was still under $10.
If I buy steel reels can I use them with the plastic tank? I hope there's nothing wrong with the tank. I tested it with water last night and have to hold the top on to keep it from leaking when I invert it. I'd buy a new tank but I'm so cash-strapped at the moment that I've imposed a moratorium (which also means I am no longer looking for a 90mm lens -- I am not sure what made me think I could afford one now, but sitting down and going through one's finances has a way of bringing one back to reality!).
I'll keep you guys posted. I'd really like to have a couple of rolls developed this weekend.
If I buy steel reels can I use them with the plastic tank? I hope there's nothing wrong with the tank. I tested it with water last night and have to hold the top on to keep it from leaking when I invert it. I'd buy a new tank but I'm so cash-strapped at the moment that I've imposed a moratorium (which also means I am no longer looking for a 90mm lens -- I am not sure what made me think I could afford one now, but sitting down and going through one's finances has a way of bringing one back to reality!).
I'll keep you guys posted. I'd really like to have a couple of rolls developed this weekend.
bmattock
Veteran
Folks, if I may interject. The easiest to load reels there is - is no reels at all. Kodak made a proprietary system called Kodacraft in the 1950/60's. You can still get the tanks on eBoy for a couple bucks, and the reels are not reels. You can get NEW replacements (they are called aprons) at Freestyle:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=6050
Notice that they are 99 cents. They roll up onto themselves, looking like lasagna. The way they work is you unroll them in the dark - they want to roll up again like a spring. You place one end of the film in the end and let the thing roll up - like two-ply toilet paper. The waves in the lasagna keeps the film from touching anything. That's it. You can buy a one-roll tank at Freestyle also, but if you buy a 'real' Kodak Kodacraft tank, you can put two rolls in at a time.
Easiest thing going - period. I can't imagine how you could have a problem with these. Easy cleanup too.
One and only one drawback that I can see - the tanks (the old Kodacraft ones) were not designed to be inverted - you agitate without inverting or you wear it. That's it for downside.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=6050
Notice that they are 99 cents. They roll up onto themselves, looking like lasagna. The way they work is you unroll them in the dark - they want to roll up again like a spring. You place one end of the film in the end and let the thing roll up - like two-ply toilet paper. The waves in the lasagna keeps the film from touching anything. That's it. You can buy a one-roll tank at Freestyle also, but if you buy a 'real' Kodak Kodacraft tank, you can put two rolls in at a time.
Easiest thing going - period. I can't imagine how you could have a problem with these. Easy cleanup too.
One and only one drawback that I can see - the tanks (the old Kodacraft ones) were not designed to be inverted - you agitate without inverting or you wear it. That's it for downside.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
bmattock
Veteran
MelanieC said:
Steel and plastic tanks are different diameters on purpose - manufacturers don't like to play nice with each other. If you go with SS, there is only one brand to consider - Nikor. Not Nikkor, that's a Nikon lens designation. Nikor was a US maker - gone now I think. But they made awesome SS tanks and reels that worked. Beware only that they were made to be matched individually. YOu can't mix-n-match different lids on different tanks, even the same model. They are liquid-tight only when they are left as they were the day they were made.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Uh, yeah, I meant ~250 for one reel; I'm used to thinking of two reels at a time. Duh, my bad.
Yes, Nikor are great. I think Hewes (sp?) from the UK are now the highly rated, high quality reel, but I've not used them.
Yes, Nikor are great. I think Hewes (sp?) from the UK are now the highly rated, high quality reel, but I've not used them.
FPjohn
Well-known
Hewes/Kinderman/Durst
Hewes/Kinderman/Durst
Hello:
The Jobo tanks and reels are versatile-roll, inversion or twist agitation and never(?) leak. If you do more than one roll in sucession a second set of reels helps as plastic reels must be dry to work well.
The Hewes reels are of highest quality and very expensive but worth it if you cannot find good used kinderman or nikor reels. Durst made a 35mm/120 plastic tank, green pour top plastic lid, which took stainless steel reels and had the volume of a kinderman tank. This is the one I most commonly use. To me the best of all possible worlds : Inversion mixing, hewes reels and leakproof with thermal stability-and cheap. YMMV.
Yours
Frank
Hewes/Kinderman/Durst
Hello:
The Jobo tanks and reels are versatile-roll, inversion or twist agitation and never(?) leak. If you do more than one roll in sucession a second set of reels helps as plastic reels must be dry to work well.
The Hewes reels are of highest quality and very expensive but worth it if you cannot find good used kinderman or nikor reels. Durst made a 35mm/120 plastic tank, green pour top plastic lid, which took stainless steel reels and had the volume of a kinderman tank. This is the one I most commonly use. To me the best of all possible worlds : Inversion mixing, hewes reels and leakproof with thermal stability-and cheap. YMMV.
Yours
Frank
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Frank: Are the Kinderman tanks still available? What sizes are/were available? I'm thinking they might have better thermal stability than stainless steel.
FPjohn
Well-known
Jobo current
Jobo current
Hello:
The Durst tank was available from Henrys for ~$7.00cdn. They may still have them. They were 2x35, 1x120 only. tbomk. Kinderman tanks were stainless steel with soft plastic lid and heavy stainless reels.
Jobo has Hewes reels for its 1500 series tanks which come in muliple reel sizes from 1x35 up. They take their plastic core. Larger volumes are used than the Durst for inversion processing but less in roller configuration. The tanks can serve as daylight paper processors as well-the maximum value per dollar!
yours
Frank
Jobo current
Hello:
The Durst tank was available from Henrys for ~$7.00cdn. They may still have them. They were 2x35, 1x120 only. tbomk. Kinderman tanks were stainless steel with soft plastic lid and heavy stainless reels.
Jobo has Hewes reels for its 1500 series tanks which come in muliple reel sizes from 1x35 up. They take their plastic core. Larger volumes are used than the Durst for inversion processing but less in roller configuration. The tanks can serve as daylight paper processors as well-the maximum value per dollar!
yours
Frank
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Thanks, Frank, I'll look at Henry's for the Durst tanks, even though I said Kinderman. ;-)