Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
Does anyone here at RFF know how you'd go about adding a strap lug to a Zorki 4. I just saw a picture of such a Zorki 4 on flickr, here:
http://flickr.com/photos/ondrej_p/444672779/in/set-72157594274751574/
The photographer that posted the picture mentions that he added the lug, but doesn't say how. It LOOKS like it would be a simple matter, BUT... where do you get a nice looking lug, how do you affix it, and if you drill a hole in the body how do you prevent the light leaks. Anyone have an idea or two?
http://flickr.com/photos/ondrej_p/444672779/in/set-72157594274751574/
The photographer that posted the picture mentions that he added the lug, but doesn't say how. It LOOKS like it would be a simple matter, BUT... where do you get a nice looking lug, how do you affix it, and if you drill a hole in the body how do you prevent the light leaks. Anyone have an idea or two?
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
I shall follow this to see if any ideas come up concerning a Zorki 1C.
Spyderman
Well-known
Hi Jamie,
the process of adding the strap lug is not that difficult.
You will need a suitable lug. It's not at all an easy task to find something suitable. You might salvage a strap lug from an "parts" camera. You will also need a two-part epoxy glue. Not some cyanoacrylate "crazy glue".
1.) remove the body shell of Zorki 4
2.) drill a hole in the shell where you want the lug
3.) mix the two-part glue
4.) position the lug
5.) apply glue from the inside of the shell, making sure nothing will protrude inside the shell, because it would interfere with take-up spool.
Then be patient. Two part glue hardens after a couple hours, but is rock-solid.
Good luck.
the process of adding the strap lug is not that difficult.
You will need a suitable lug. It's not at all an easy task to find something suitable. You might salvage a strap lug from an "parts" camera. You will also need a two-part epoxy glue. Not some cyanoacrylate "crazy glue".
1.) remove the body shell of Zorki 4
2.) drill a hole in the shell where you want the lug
3.) mix the two-part glue
4.) position the lug
5.) apply glue from the inside of the shell, making sure nothing will protrude inside the shell, because it would interfere with take-up spool.
Then be patient. Two part glue hardens after a couple hours, but is rock-solid.
Good luck.
John Robertson
Well-known
you can buy camera strap lugs here.
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/e_parts.htm
they also have covering leather, foam light seals etc. Good and efficient to d/w.
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/e_parts.htm
they also have covering leather, foam light seals etc. Good and efficient to d/w.
wolves3012
Veteran
Simpler to buy an older 4 that already had them?
wolves3012
Veteran
Swap the body with a 2C that did have them. You just need to cover the self-timer holes...payasam said:
acheyj
Well-known
All interesting fellas.
The Mirco Tools lugs for Leicas are meant to be riveted in. Sydermans ideas for epoxy looks cool. The Micro Tools ones are a bit on the pricey side so am toying with the idea of turning some up on the lathe, problem was the riveting, had not thought abt epoxy.
I emailed Oleg as I believe he would do it on a body, never replied.
I want to "lug" a Zorki 1 my favourite FSU camera.
ron
The Mirco Tools lugs for Leicas are meant to be riveted in. Sydermans ideas for epoxy looks cool. The Micro Tools ones are a bit on the pricey side so am toying with the idea of turning some up on the lathe, problem was the riveting, had not thought abt epoxy.
I emailed Oleg as I believe he would do it on a body, never replied.
I want to "lug" a Zorki 1 my favourite FSU camera.
ron
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
make the lugs out of small bolts using a file , a drill and a hack saw.
you can then drill and tap holes in the body or better yet, the removable back and screw the lugs in using a drop of Loc-tite to secure them permenantly.
you can then drill and tap holes in the body or better yet, the removable back and screw the lugs in using a drop of Loc-tite to secure them permenantly.
P
polaski
Guest
I solved the problem by finding the lower half of a case that fit an RF without lugs. And I resolved to make sure any clothing I buy has larger pockets.
MartinP
Veteran
As an alternative, a good cobbler can remove the rivets holding the two parts of a leather ever-ready case and replace them with snap fasteners. In the case of the Zorki-1, you probably only need two of the three actually 'snappable', as that will be plenty strong enough. The case i have for mine is very snug fitting, so this idea worked well. On a FED 2 it is a bit looser but still handy for travelling (although that already has lugs anyway).
zhang xk
Well-known
wolves3012 said:
I did that long time ago.
My Z-4K, Zorki-1 now has strap lugs. It is cheaper to use a $10 parts early Z-4's shell.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
L
lkgroup
Guest
xayraa33
Could describe a little more how you made your lugs from Stainless steel bolts.
Where did you get them, how did you make the correct shape etc. I can see the picture, they look nice could you show a close - up of them so we could see the detail?
I think I can see how you made the holes on the camera and attached the lugs but I would like a little more info on making them before diving in and trying it for myself.
Thanks
Leo
Could describe a little more how you made your lugs from Stainless steel bolts.
Where did you get them, how did you make the correct shape etc. I can see the picture, they look nice could you show a close - up of them so we could see the detail?
I think I can see how you made the holes on the camera and attached the lugs but I would like a little more info on making them before diving in and trying it for myself.
Thanks
Leo
Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
Me too... more information on how you made the lugs would be much appreciated. Beside how you shaped the bolt into a lug, how is it attached to the body? Is the bolt head inside the body? And is it epoxied in?
Thank you for posting the picture. Its inspiring me to consider the surgery.
Thank you for posting the picture. Its inspiring me to consider the surgery.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
you do not need stainless steel bolts, they just happen to be in my parts "Folgers Coffee Tin".
you need two 3/16 " or even 1/4" bolts or their metric proximity, with at least 1/2'' long shoulder on them.
place the bolt in a vise without flattening all the threads and hack saw the head off.
now file the round shoulder flatter on one side and on the opposite side
till the shoulder is 1/8" or so thick across.
drill one hole in the shoulder on the flat.
the hole should be larger than the ring thickness of the strap ring you are going to use.
now, cut the excess of the shoulder off at the end and file it nice and round.
use emery cloth to smooth the shoulder down.
now with the almost finished lug in a vice , held at on part of the thread,
hacksaw it leaving four or so threads on the finished shoulder.
Drill and tap the camera body or back, apply a drop of Loc-Tite and screw the lug in.
you need two 3/16 " or even 1/4" bolts or their metric proximity, with at least 1/2'' long shoulder on them.
place the bolt in a vise without flattening all the threads and hack saw the head off.
now file the round shoulder flatter on one side and on the opposite side
till the shoulder is 1/8" or so thick across.
drill one hole in the shoulder on the flat.
the hole should be larger than the ring thickness of the strap ring you are going to use.
now, cut the excess of the shoulder off at the end and file it nice and round.
use emery cloth to smooth the shoulder down.
now with the almost finished lug in a vice , held at on part of the thread,
hacksaw it leaving four or so threads on the finished shoulder.
Drill and tap the camera body or back, apply a drop of Loc-Tite and screw the lug in.
Attachments
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
The body is drilled and tapped to the right size, ie: the bolt thread size.Jamie Pillers said:Me too... more information on how you made the lugs would be much appreciated. Beside how you shaped the bolt into a lug, how is it attached to the body? Is the bolt head inside the body? And is it epoxied in?
Thank you for posting the picture. Its inspiring me to consider the surgery.
so the lug is threaded on with a drop of Loc Tite or even glue on the lug's thread to permanently secure it.
the amount of threads you leave on the finished lug depends on how thick the metal on the camera body or back is.
Drilling the camera body is best done slowly with a hand drill and make sure you always use a centre punch on the metal you are about to drill into.
the drill bit dia. is always smaller than the tap diameter.
use a machinist's chart to find the proper drill bit size.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
On the Fed 5, I like to put the lugs on the removable back, so if the body ever dies, you can reuse the lugged back on an other Fed 5 body.
the same logic will apply to a no- lug Zorki.
the same logic will apply to a no- lug Zorki.
L
lkgroup
Guest
xayraa33,
By putting the lugs on the back does the camera seem off center or does is feel just the same as if lugs were on the body?
Thanks for the very complete description of your lug addition. I'm now set to try it.
Leo
By putting the lugs on the back does the camera seem off center or does is feel just the same as if lugs were on the body?
Thanks for the very complete description of your lug addition. I'm now set to try it.
Leo
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
lkgroup said:
it goes a little down , but with the light aluminium FSU lenses it is no problem.
on the plus side, the uncapped lens pointing a little down when the FED is around my neck, prevents the sun burning my shutter curtains on those long sunny summer inner city hikes.