MPWhite01
Member
While at a local train show this past weekend, I met a fellow M digital user. We started talking about the codes on the lenses. He showed me what he found in a store in New York City.
It was a set of MYLAR rings, with the codes imbedded inside of them, and could be stuck onto the lens flange. The Lens was able to be removed and replaced with ease, and no worry about the codes rubbing off.
I gave him my email, and he promised to send me where he purchased them, but I have yet to hear from him (I did not get his email {like a dummy}).
Has anyone else ever come across these?
It was a set of MYLAR rings, with the codes imbedded inside of them, and could be stuck onto the lens flange. The Lens was able to be removed and replaced with ease, and no worry about the codes rubbing off.
I gave him my email, and he promised to send me where he purchased them, but I have yet to hear from him (I did not get his email {like a dummy}).
Has anyone else ever come across these?
enero
Killer of Threads
Never seen those, but sounds like they would be handy, if readily available. I just paint the codes on with paint (nail polish, paint pen, any ole model paint, etc) Takes no time at all and comes right off with a thumbnail 
Fraser
Well-known
That sounds interesting, but I still think you are better just changing the lens mounts.
icebear
Veteran
I guess these rings are pretty thin, if you still can mount the lens without issue but it will alter (however so slightly) the flange distance to the sensor surface.
If you want to utilize the max. potential of you camera/lens combination, then do yourself a favor and have the lenses 6-bit coded and adjusted to your camera body. At the same time RF will be checked and sensor position adjusted if need be. And then you see what even older lenses are capable of and you'll never look back. Getting lens and camera adjusted is much more important than the 6-bit coding which is just a convenience thing, so that you don't have to manually select the lens from the menue.
If you want to utilize the max. potential of you camera/lens combination, then do yourself a favor and have the lenses 6-bit coded and adjusted to your camera body. At the same time RF will be checked and sensor position adjusted if need be. And then you see what even older lenses are capable of and you'll never look back. Getting lens and camera adjusted is much more important than the 6-bit coding which is just a convenience thing, so that you don't have to manually select the lens from the menue.
Agree especially with the first sentence, and that even a thin mylar ring must have an effect on the focus calibration... unless that mylar is applied within the groove present in some Zeiss lens flanges. My lenses are hard-coded and checked over by DAG. I've not sent any camera body in, and they seem not to have needed it, but it's a fine idea to make sure both body and lenses are calibrated to the standard, not necessarily adjusted only to each other.
Just a note on the final sentence, that the M8 does not have that manual lens-setting menu, so the coding is all the more useful.
Fraser
Well-known
I changed the mounts myself and as long as you tighten everything up properly you should have no problem. I do think its important to have the camera calibrated I had it done and it made all the difference.
I only wish I could change the mount on my pre-asph summilux.
I only wish I could change the mount on my pre-asph summilux.