adhesive for covering?

[SteveM(PA)]

Hi, I'm continually trying to keep my covering in place. All three sections seem to keep expanding, so a few times I've had to take them off and trim them. The size is ok now, but it doesn't conform to the curves of the body, and the glue doesn't seem strong enough anymore. Can anyone recommend an adhesive, non-permanent or otherwise, that I can slather on there?

BTW, I contacted Camera Leather, they said they get many requests for an R-D1 covering. But for some reason they still won't make a kit. (So there are more requests for, say, a Salyut 6X6 SLR? 🙂 ) They said they'd come up with something only if I sent in the camera.

 

[Silva Lining]

I usually use a contact adhesive like Copydex for sticking down camera leather.

Perhaps because the R-D1 is in many cases still under warrenty - recovering them would invalidate this? just a guess....

 

[Ben Z]

The old-time camera repair guys all use something called Pliobond. I believe you can get it at http://www.micro-tools.com.

 

[Farace]

Plain old Weldwood contact cement, carried by True Value and almost any other hardware store, will work (it's also used for attaching Tolex to guitar amps). Use in a well-ventilated area (I had to use it inside a closed Alfa when I was replacing the convertible top, and believe me, it will make your head spin). Pliobond, mentioned above, can sometimes be found in hardware stores, too, but it's not as common, at least around here, as I found when I needed some (it's one common way of attaching ferrules to bamboo fly rods). Follow the instructions and apply to both surfaces and let them dry before sticking it down. If I were doing this (and I might be soon), I think I'd consider doing only one half of each piece at a time--tape one half down to keep the alignment right and glue the other half, then go back and glue the first half. Once it's stuck down, you'll have a difficult time getting it off again to correct an alignment error.

 

[clintock]

If the epson uses plastic panels for covering like the bessa line, use Scotch brand Poster Tape. It works just like the original stuff, assuming the epson uses the same black goo double side tape stuff as the bessas. The Poster Tape is clear, while the original stuff is black, but otherwise it handles and behaves just the same.
Solvent glues mentioned may harm that plastic molding.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...unting_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

 

[ruben]

Hi Steve,
the RD=1 should be quite an expensive camera. So what's the reason you are insisting so much with the risks involved, for a covering, instead of a half case for example ?

if you could detail, may be more ideas will appear. But starting testing cements... on a new RD....

My dos pesitos.
Cheers,
Ruben

PS
I still have a pristine Lynx 14e I am not using because I need it black and I don't dare to touch its inmaculate chrome.

 

[Farace]

If the epson uses plastic panels for covering . . . Solvent glues mentioned may harm that plastic molding.http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...unting_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

I'm not familiar with the Epson; when I suggested Weldwood, it was with what I'm familiar with in mind: leather or leatherette on metal. Clintock's warning is a good one. I have no idea whether Weldwood or Pliobond might soften or melt plastic.

 

[Silva Lining]

Solvent glues mentioned may harm that plastic molding.

A good warning.

Copydex is solvent free and safe to use on plastics .

 

[Bill58]

Microtools sells sheets of adhesive tape for this purpose.

 

[SteveM(PA)]

Thanks everybody. I didn't mean to sound cavalier or anything. I'll go forth with this very carefully and research all these tips. I can't afford a half case right now. Some adhesive should make it okay for awhile.

 

[jlw]

I used Scotch ATG adhesive. ATG stands for "adhesive transfer gun" -- it's a gizmo 3M makes that accepts special rolls of tape and transfers the adhesive from the tape onto the surface you want to stick. It's like double-sided tape but without the tape. This makes for a very neat, controllable application. You do need the gun to use it, and I don't know how much the guns cost (I used one we have at work) but might be worth looking into. You can find these at art-supply and craft stores.

Incidentally, be sure to read Rich C's R-D 1 website for good tips about replacing the covering. One that might particularly help you is to use a hair dryer to heat up the covering as you apply it. This softens the covering so you can make it conform to the curves and work it down around the edges so it fits inside the cover panels. Once it cools, it expands a bit and gives a nice, tight edge.

 

[SteveM(PA)]

Incidentally, be sure to read Rich C's R-D 1 website for good tips about replacing the covering. One that might particularly help you is to use a hair dryer to heat up the covering as you apply it. This softens the covering so you can make it conform to the curves and work it down around the edges so it fits inside the cover panels. Once it cools, it expands a bit and gives a nice, tight edge.

Thanks jlw, I check Rich's site often, but I don't think I've ever seen that, is it maybe on another site?

 

[payasam]

Surprising that a not exactly cheap camera should have a problem of this kind.

 

[ruben]

Thanks everybody. I didn't mean to sound cavalier or anything. I'll go forth with this very carefully and research all these tips. I can't afford a half case right now. Some adhesive should make it okay for awhile.

Steve,
I didn't mean a half case from Luigi or the likes, but there is a lot of experience engulfed here at RFF membership, if you just happened to detail a bit your need upon which you want the covering....

But OK, to everyone his right of privacy.
Best wishes,
Ruben

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

the RD=1 should be quite an expensive camera. So what's the reason you are insisting so much with the risks involved, for a covering, instead of a half case for example ?

Yes Steve, how highly illogical. Putting a half case on it will make your covering problem magically go away. 🙄

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

Thanks everybody. I didn't mean to sound cavalier or anything. I'll go forth with this very carefully and research all these tips. I can't afford a half case right now. Some adhesive should make it okay for awhile.

This is a crude workaround, but if you can find some acid-free (i.e. the kind that's sold in art supply stores) tape to cover those edges...I don't know, now that I think about it it's a bad idea: the tape is usually found in white, and you'd have to color it black. Oy.

Why don't you just use black electric tape? I've seen both an R-D1 and an M8 covered with it; no, not mine, if you're wondering. Duct tape and electric tape, it's even endorsed by government agencies!

 

[foto_fool]

Hi, I'm continually trying to keep my covering in place. All three sections seem to keep expanding, so a few times I've had to take them off and trim them. The size is ok now, but it doesn't conform to the curves of the body, and the glue doesn't seem strong enough anymore. Can anyone recommend an adhesive, non-permanent or otherwise, that I can slather on there?

BTW, I contacted Camera Leather, they said they get many requests for an R-D1 covering. But for some reason they still won't make a kit. (So there are more requests for, say, a Salyut 6X6 SLR? 🙂 ) They said they'd come up with something only if I sent in the camera.

I just recovered my R3A with a kit from cameraleather. It looks great and makes the camera feel smaller - the new covering is thinner that the plastic it replaces, and the molded ridge on the back plastic panel is gone.

I originally contacted Morgan because my R-D1 has the same problem with "growing" covering that Steve's has. The 2-sided tape that holds on the R-D1 coverings smells different than the stuff on the R3A, but the plastic looks and feels identical. Maybe some solvent in the Epson's tape is incompatible with the plastic.

Anyway, I had an extensive exchange with Morgan about why they don't do an R-D1 kit yet. Nothing to do with Epson warranty or anything else other than that they need to have a body in hand to get the exact fit required to develop a template. In some cases they even have to make different templates for the same body, due to differences in material thickness and bend conformance.

If I drop my R-D1 or otherwise do something to really push the RF out of adjustment I will send the body in to Morgan before I send it to DAG or Steve Choi for repair. Otherwise I'm not going to risk having it busted up in shipping for the sake of the cover.

There have been some good posts in this thread about new 2-sided tape options that look worth pursuing. Another option Steve might consider is to get a sheet of uncut material from cameraleather and cut out his own cover. I have not approached Morgan about getting a sheet of material other than the VH leatherette or seal grain on regular offer. I would not pick the seal grain - it looks OK on an Argus but the R-D1 deserves better.

- John

 

[RichC]

Thanks jlw, I check Rich's site often, but I don't think I've ever seen that, is it maybe on another site?

See points 4 and 5 at http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_18.htm