Cut and paste from getdpi
Cut and paste from getdpi
The biggest issue w/ adobe in terms of xtran sensor and green (plants, grass, trees, etc) is the sharpening algo they use according to a lot of stuff I have read. The sw like capture one and iridient uses a different approach for sharpening then the normal for Bayer. I know adobe changed there sharpening as well, but I don't think they did as much as some other vendors.
There is a on going thread at getdpi trying to help a fellow member w/ his new xt1 due to the smearing he is seeing. The cut and paste below is one of the better replies in terms of the why.
Gary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ario Arioldi
Ricardo, may I ask you which settings you have used in Iridient? I have tried myself and with the default settings I get a lot o reddish/purplish artifacts on the bark of the tree and very few also on the grass; to remove them completely I have to push to the far right the ChromAdaptive slider and a bit also the Chromalogic (5) recovering then some sharpness with RL Deconvolution (0.4 - 16). I am sure there are also better combinations but this is what I found in 10 minutes.
I will paste the Iridient settings I used. I actually screen-shotted them but forgot to upload. I am not at home now but when I get home I will paste it.
A few more words on the whole Bayer/Xtrans thing-
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Fuji created Xtrans to feel confident to remove the AA filter to increase detail in capture while avoiding the risk of color Moire.
As it always happens, with any engineering solution, there are tradeoffs and pros and cons. I personally believe the tradeoffs that FujiFilm chose in pursuing this design work better than Bayer for most photography.
And always remember, Bayer *also* has artifacts. It's a de-mosaic algorithm after all. The only sensor design that would not be having these artifacts would be a Foveon X3 with no noise, but you can guess by that wording what tradeoff the Foveon sensor is making 🙂
Xtrans has *more* green photo sites than red and blue vs Bayer. This means for red and blue, a Bayer sensor would have more resolution. This is countered to some degree by the AA filter Bayer sensors need unless you are using an AAless Bayer.
But if you use an AAless Bayer, you risk color Moire and there's no free lunch here. For example Olympus mentions in their specs of EM1 there's no AA filter, but the shots and JPEGS I am seeing do not seem to have the sharpness or bite that I would expect from a good/pure AAless Bayer (a good comparison may be those Ricoh GR files). Why is that? Because they are doing post processing on the image to get rid of color Moire- and I am sure if you use iridient on it or other raw converters you can get more detail than the Jpegs- but now you have to deal with color Moire.
Xtrans *can still* get color Moire but is much more rarer than an AAless Bayer. And because as I mentioned Xtrans is richer in green, black and white conversions actually work better for Xtrans vs Bayer designs, due to that being the color our eyes are most sensitive for luminance.
With the right raw converter Xtrans detail is somewhere between typical Bayer (with AA filter) and Foveon- more so in B&W.
A pure AAless Bayer should capture in color more detail overall but then you will have to often nuke detail because color moire shows up. And if you hare shooting say a wedding with 250 shots (assuming you are that good to nail almost every shot), imagine having to look for color moire on every single shot.... all those dresses, clothes and veils.
It's what Thom Hogan said once- Fuji changed some artifacts for others when doing the Xtrans sensor and to me the tradeoff works for the bigger gain on most cases.
But this required a whole re-thinking of RAW converter algorithm (it took Fuji themselves 2 years to do the math for their JPEG engine after all) and RAW converters have had years and years of experience with the Bayer color filter array pattern. It's only natural that out of the gate most raw converters would have issues.
If you want the cheapest solution, grab the SilkyPix included- Fuji worked with them to do a new rev of their algorithm and if you know how to use the right settings it works reasonably well.
Capture one 7 for me is overall the best one. Iridient is pretty good, particularly when pursuing pure detail though it has more color artifacts. But again- will this really matter to your overall image printed or shown on a web page? The image still has that extra bite of micro contrast for not having the AA filter.
And that's pretty much it. The world doesn't end and a lot of you quite frankly seem to me buying this camera when you already had a -so you have said- a fantastic camera, so I don't get it.
Why the "need" to buy greatest and latest when the domains of shooting for the tool overlap with the one you have which you said you love so much?
Anyway 🙂
- Ricardo
