ADOX CMS 20 ... wow! no what.

robklurfield

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Just processed my first two rolls of CMS 20. My gosh, this stuff is totally beautiful. Problem is that I am careless and clumsy. I mixed my Adox developer with tap water (this while standing right next to the bottle of distilled water... dummy, me). This reminded me why I like one-hour stand development of stocks like Neopan; they're almost idiot-proof and, well, sometimes, I can be a bit of an idiot. Anyway, I certainly need some practice with properly exposing this amazing film. And, next time, I will actually use the distilled water. And, of course, I need to be more careful with timing, temperature and handling. The film backing on this stuff is a challenge with a strong propensity for reverse curling (going the opposite of the direction your intuition would suggest). You need sharp scissors to cut it. It seems to scratch easily. But, oh my god that grain is so fine and the resolution so high. I think it will be worth the trouble for me.

In any case, does anyone out there have any suggestions for cleaning stains of my first two rolls.? Here's some sample frames. I blame my tap water faux pax for most of this, though my agitation could stand to be smoother, too.


5039833132_b0c1c93a1a_b.jpg
 
most of the roll was underexposed by at least a stop or more. hard sun. most of these were shot with a CV 15/4.5 wide open or near to it. no clue about the vignetting.

Pavel, if you know how to clean this film, I'll help you to skip cleaning your monitor. I assume this is residue from poor agitation together with hard water. I hope that using distilled or de-ionized water. I'm guessing it's not coming off. but, live and learn ... so I'll avoid those marks with better water next time.
 
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Soaking it for some time in distilled water and finally rinsing it with new clean distilled water should do the trick.
 
totally overexposed in the center and black in the vignetted areas. wtf did I do? so, consistently screwed up. lens? exposure? shutter curtain issue? I'm baffled.

nevertheless, check out those individual grains of sand. if I can master this stuff, I'll be really pleased. will shoot next roll with a different lens in less bright light. will try metering a little more carefully. will use the good water. but I'll keep all the other variables (time, temp, etc.) constant.
 
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most of the roll was underexposed by at least a stop or more. hard sun. most of these were shot with a CV 15/4.5 wide open or near to it. no clue about the vignetting.

Pavel, if you know how to clean this film, I'll help you to skip cleaning your monitor. I assume this is residue from poor agitation together with hard water. I hope that using distilled or de-ionized water. I'm guessing it's not coming off. but, live and learn ... so I'll avoid those marks with better water next time.

Would water do that to film? In my darkroom class we use what I think is tap water when mixing D76 1:1. I do a prewash with the water, then develop with the D76 1:1 mixed with tap. Never seen something like this.
 
Would water do that to film? In my darkroom class we use what I think is tap water when mixing D76 1:1. I do a prewash with the water, then develop with the D76 1:1 mixed with tap. Never seen something like this.

This depends on the calcium content i.e. hardness of your tap water.
 
this film is actually known for being acutely sensitive to water quality. I always use tap water on my Neopan, but here it was an inadvertent error. if the developer weren't so expensive, I probably would have poured it out and started over, but I figured with my first roll to leave a little to chance. distilled water was $1.00 for a gallon at Walgreens, so no big deal for as often as I'll be shooting this film.
Would water do that to film? In my darkroom class we use what I think is tap water when mixing D76 1:1. I do a prewash with the water, then develop with the D76 1:1 mixed with tap. Never seen something like this.
 
Hi Rick. Thanks. I've not shot with anything slow or hi-res in 25+ years, so I will definitely check out what Irwin has to say. After using lots of Neopan 400 and 1600, this is a different species.

rob
just for additional info re slow hi-res films, you might want to visit the erwin puts site here: http://www.imx.nl/photo/Film/Film/page32.html he tries several, and provides a good quick review.
greetings from hamburg
rick
 
That's some serious contrast there Rob! :D

I've used a bit of Adox CHS 100 and while I like it I do find it hard to master my developing regime to suit the emulsion ... and I haven't nailed it yet. The results have been pretty indifferent and I'm nearly out of it so that will probably be it for me.

I think I'll stick to Pan F+ .. it's been much kinder to me! :p
 
then obviously 15mm f4.5 is not a good partner for this film...I would love to try this with my 45mm contax at f2...resolution is amazing, if the contrast was ok I would be able to almost read the cross-word the guy is solving on the beach :)
 
agreed re the 15/4.5.

I haven't done any post-processing yet, so let's see if re-washing these rolls, rescanning and little tweaking of the levels helps at all.

then obviously 15mm f4.5 is not a good partner for this film...I would love to try this with my 45mm contax at f2...resolution is amazing, if the contrast was ok I would be able to almost read the cross-word the guy is solving on the beach :)
 
Rob,

What developer are you using? I use the recommended Adotech Adolux and I don't get such high contrast. However, I do find that this film scratches quite easily and also attracts dust like nothing I've ever seen. I use distilled water throughout the development process but I still have to do quite a bit of spotting.

Here's some samples with various lenses.

35f2 Summicron ASPH:

Rio Mondego, Coimbra by ~ Nando ~, on Flickr

24f2.8 Elmarit ASPH:

A Serenade, Coimbra-style by ~ Nando ~, on Flickr

50f1.4 Summilux ASPH:

Restaurante Democrática's Menu, Rua da Sofia, Coimbra by ~ Nando ~, on Flickr

35f2.8 Summaron:

From my office by ~ Nando ~, on Flickr
 
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