Dan1984
Newbie
Hi Everyone,
I'm new to this form and have never owned a rangefinder. I have a Canon 450D SLR at the moment but I really want an RD1 I just have a few questions before taking the plunge.
1) RD1, RD1S, RD1X - am I right in saying the difference between all 3 is minimal? does the RDX have a quicker buffer time so you can shot more continuous images in RAW or is it still just 2-3?
2) I know the sensor is not as big as in some SLR's, how good is the image quality? I assume it’s going to be superior to my 450D?
3) I like to shoot at around 35-50mm, I understand that if I use wide lenses I need some sort of adapter or separate view finder, how much of a pain in the ass is this?
Lastly where would you recommend I look for one and what lenses would people recommend at reasonable money??
I hope there are a few people on here who are able to help me out
Cheers Guys
Danny
I'm new to this form and have never owned a rangefinder. I have a Canon 450D SLR at the moment but I really want an RD1 I just have a few questions before taking the plunge.
1) RD1, RD1S, RD1X - am I right in saying the difference between all 3 is minimal? does the RDX have a quicker buffer time so you can shot more continuous images in RAW or is it still just 2-3?
2) I know the sensor is not as big as in some SLR's, how good is the image quality? I assume it’s going to be superior to my 450D?
3) I like to shoot at around 35-50mm, I understand that if I use wide lenses I need some sort of adapter or separate view finder, how much of a pain in the ass is this?
Lastly where would you recommend I look for one and what lenses would people recommend at reasonable money??
I hope there are a few people on here who are able to help me out
Cheers Guys
Danny
RobVinc
I am a registered alien..
The differences between the R-D1 and the R-D1s are minimal, with the same firmware almost nothing.
The R-D1x lacks the flippable screen but offers SDHC support (and a longer service life)
The sensor is of APS-C size with 6MPx. So the Crop-factor is 1.5 ( probably very similiar to you 450D)
I have at the moment a 28mm/35mm/50mm lens-setup, but mainly only use the 28mm on the R-D1 which works very good with the effective focal length of ca.43mm.
With the lenses the price is also an issue but if you could live with a 2.8 or 3.5 aprerture wide open there are some cheap possibilies, esp with the M-Mount and the LTM to M adapters.
I started my RF-Life with an Zorki 4 with an Jupiter 8 (50mm(2.0)) which can be a good lens iof you find a good one.
You could try to find a resonable priced Canon 35mm/2.8 in LTM with an adapter for starters.
The Voigtländer Lenses are also worth a try, esp. the slower ones are sometimes easy to get in the classifieds for 2-400Euro.
Welcome to the RF-World and many fun with the R-D1,
Rob
PS: aftermarket batteries for the R-D1 are easily to get via e-bay or amazon.
The R-D1x lacks the flippable screen but offers SDHC support (and a longer service life)
The sensor is of APS-C size with 6MPx. So the Crop-factor is 1.5 ( probably very similiar to you 450D)
I have at the moment a 28mm/35mm/50mm lens-setup, but mainly only use the 28mm on the R-D1 which works very good with the effective focal length of ca.43mm.
With the lenses the price is also an issue but if you could live with a 2.8 or 3.5 aprerture wide open there are some cheap possibilies, esp with the M-Mount and the LTM to M adapters.
I started my RF-Life with an Zorki 4 with an Jupiter 8 (50mm(2.0)) which can be a good lens iof you find a good one.
You could try to find a resonable priced Canon 35mm/2.8 in LTM with an adapter for starters.
The Voigtländer Lenses are also worth a try, esp. the slower ones are sometimes easy to get in the classifieds for 2-400Euro.
Welcome to the RF-World and many fun with the R-D1,
Rob
PS: aftermarket batteries for the R-D1 are easily to get via e-bay or amazon.
Johnmcd
Well-known
The R-D1 is a great camera. I believe the sensor is from the Nikon D100 and therefore is somewhat older than the one in the 450D. If anything it is a little bigger than the Canon sensor. What seems to be special from my point of view is what Epson did with the Nikon sensor to get a very characteristic look that later cameras have not been able to replicate.
It is also very capable up to 1600 iso but I believe that 800 is the sweet spot. This is easily achievable in low light with some fast glass like the 40/1.4 vc.
Lastly, it's just fun to use. Mine is the early model where I can flip the screen closed and just shoot like it's a 'film' camera.
Go for it!
John
It is also very capable up to 1600 iso but I believe that 800 is the sweet spot. This is easily achievable in low light with some fast glass like the 40/1.4 vc.
Lastly, it's just fun to use. Mine is the early model where I can flip the screen closed and just shoot like it's a 'film' camera.
Go for it!
John
I had an RD1. Then I bought an M8 and was much happier. The colors are a lot better in my opinion.
fireblade
Vincenzo.
angeloks
Well-known
I recently got one (3 weeks ago - R-D1s), I've been very happy with the results. The form factor of the Epson is perfect for me. I use it a lot with my 12mm and 50mm Millenium Nikkor. The colors are good, high-iso are really film-like.
They look nice. Good processing. 
angeloks
Well-known
JSU, I did nothing to correct it... I guess that the crop factor helps a lot. The results are much nicer than on my old NEX5. I think the vignetting is part of the lens' signature. OTOH, I guess Cornerfix could fix the corners if you really wanted to get rid of the vignetting !
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
i use the CV 35/f1.4 on this baby...but i also use the Elmarit 90/f2.8 with the TEWE Viewfinder (35 - 200mm, with 3-6ft-Inf distance) to good effect.
captured on the rd1 at iso 200 and elmarit 90/f2.8 (becomes 135mm)
pp with grains added ...
captured on the rd1 at iso 200 and elmarit 90/f2.8 (becomes 135mm)
pp with grains added ...
kkdanamatt
Well-known
I had an RD1 (upgraded with the new RD-1S firmware) for about two years. The maximum size SD card that I could use was 2GB, which is just minimal, IMHO. The RD1 and RD1S won't accept the newer HC SD cards. The Epson battery doesn't last as long as some of the more modern DSLRs, so I always had to carry two extras when I went out to shoot. The LCD is not as big, bright or sharp as your Canon's, but being able to reverse it and make believe that you're shooting film was cool. The user interface for menus, playback and viewer magnification is very clunky. The sensor is the same sensor that Nikon used in the D50, which is pretty decent. Because the sensor is APC-C with a 1.5X magnification, wide-angle lenses are required and they can be pretty pricey, so be prepared. Remember, there are no cheap 18-55mm kit zoom lenses for rangefinder cameras. For best results I always shot RAW, which is a bit slow in recording and requires post processing with either the Epson software or a third party solution. The focus patch is not always centered because the VF frames don't expand or collapse evenly when focal lengths are changed. It's not like a Leica M camera. The focus patch in the Leica M cameras is always centered. That was the main reason why I sold it. The images are superb, and the slower shooting style was something that I got used to. But I never was happy with the off-centered focus patch, which is something that very few users ever mention in their online reviews. Bottom line...the Epson is unique and might be just the right camera for you. If you buy it from someone trustworthy on RFF or a reputable dealer who will stand behind the camera, then your downside is minimal because if you don't like it, you'll be able to sell it to someone else at either the same price or with very little downside. That's what I did. I used it for two years and sold it for exactly what I paid for it.
macgeorge
Member
Hi, I just got myself a CV21/4.
Test shot by RD1s + CV21:
Test shot by RD1s + CV21:
Dan1984
Newbie
Thanks for the advice guys, I am hoping to pick one up and was looking to start with a Nokton 40, 1.4 and pick up a couple of wider lenses as I go. I do a little bit of band photography, do you guys think this would be ok without any off camera flash in low light??
I was originally looking at the bessa R3 because I'm desperate for a rangefinder and liked the idea of shooting film but I don't know how to process and develop my own film and I'm concerned I will be spending half my wages on rolls of film.
Do any of you guys shoot film on rangefinders too????
I was originally looking at the bessa R3 because I'm desperate for a rangefinder and liked the idea of shooting film but I don't know how to process and develop my own film and I'm concerned I will be spending half my wages on rolls of film.
Do any of you guys shoot film on rangefinders too????
porktaco
Well-known
you'll be fine doing band photography. you'll have to set exposure manually and check for overexposure on LCD. the spot meter is good but it will probably pick up more shadow than light in that kind of environment.
Snapper_uk
Well-known
As opposed to spending all your wages on an ageing digital camera?
Yes, there are plenty here who shoot film on rangefinders. Processing black and white film is not complicated or expensive, once you get used to it, however scanning is, uinless you plan to get into darkroom printing.
A second hand R3a will cost you about half the price of a s/h R1d, but I would think you would still be shooting with it in 5-10 years time. Not sure I could say the same for the digital.
But then there are plenty of R1d fans who might disagree.
Yes, there are plenty here who shoot film on rangefinders. Processing black and white film is not complicated or expensive, once you get used to it, however scanning is, uinless you plan to get into darkroom printing.
A second hand R3a will cost you about half the price of a s/h R1d, but I would think you would still be shooting with it in 5-10 years time. Not sure I could say the same for the digital.
But then there are plenty of R1d fans who might disagree.
raid
Dad Photographer
So you guys are not scared of buying an old digital camera?
What if things fail, as you expect them to fail with time? Are "spare parts" vailable, and is repair service still straightforward to get?
What if things fail, as you expect them to fail with time? Are "spare parts" vailable, and is repair service still straightforward to get?
raid
Dad Photographer
I feel that the M8 is "old", so I don't even think of getting an M8.
One approach may be to simply get an old digital camera and hope for the best.
In the end, all enjoyable things must terminate one day.
One approach may be to simply get an old digital camera and hope for the best.
In the end, all enjoyable things must terminate one day.
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
yeah....i use JPG option all the time, and iso 1600 works quite well with the RD1, in addition, you have the option to choose or customize "film" settings, ie. contrasts, saturation, edge sharpness etc.
for a while, i shot mainly in b&w, iso 1600 and film setting set to high contrast.
for a while, i shot mainly in b&w, iso 1600 and film setting set to high contrast.
RFH
rfhansen.wordpress.com
The RD1 is a great tool. Epson did a very, very good job at writing algorithms for that old sensor. MP count is not all there is to image quality, so don't worry too much about the low pixel count. I have successfully printed up to 50x60 cm from it. The Epson RAW software is a bit on the slow and primitive side, but the results are nice.
The RD1 only has VF frames for 28,35 and 50mm, so if you have a wide lens like 15mm you need an external finder, which usually comes with such a lens.
Yes, the high-ISO is fine, but newer sensors are far superior in that regard.
A few examples:
The RD1 only has VF frames for 28,35 and 50mm, so if you have a wide lens like 15mm you need an external finder, which usually comes with such a lens.
Yes, the high-ISO is fine, but newer sensors are far superior in that regard.
A few examples:
astro8
Well-known
I don't think like this. If mine breaks, I'll get it fixed. If it can't be fixed, I'll buy another. As far as digital RF's go, they are as cheap as chips!
Raid, you would love this camera...I know it piques your interest.
raid
Dad Photographer
I got an EP-2 that broke after one year, so I bought a new one. It cost me $250. The RD1 costs more than $250. This is my only concern. Still, I would not be in this thread unless I had some interest. It sure beats buying an M9 or M8.