Advice on clearing Polaroid negs?

DougK

DougK

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Well, I'm about to become the proud owner of a like-new Land Camera 101 rangefinder, should be here in a few days. I was planning on using the pack film which produces both a print and a negative and I have a number of questions.

  1. What solutions will I need to clear the negatives? I know that there is one solution to clear the negs and another one to harden them, but I'm a little fuzzy on exactly what these are.
  2. Are these solutions different for color negs vs. black-and-white?
  3. Do I need tanks, trays, or something else?
  4. Can I do the processing under room lighting, do I use a safelight, or do I need to be completely in the dark?
  5. Anybody have any experience with scanning these negatives on a flatbed? How were the results?

I can't wait to start playing with this camera :)
 
I have never used the 101, always wanted to get a converted 110B though. I have used a poloaroid back for 4x5 and used the sheet film that had both the neg. and positive image, I forget what solution is used to clear the negs but it's something simple. I would take a tupperware container or some other container that was water tight, keep some solution into it and leave the negatives inside till you can get home.
With the type of film you are using you have to expose for either the negative or the positive, you cannot have both, I think the negative is ISO 50.
Here is an image taken on type 55 BW 4x5 polaroid sheet film, scanned with an Epson 2450 flatbed (reflective). The Epson flatbeds have 35mm, 120mm, and 4x5 film holders and are a great choice for the larger formats, good luck and let us see some pics when you get it all together!

Todd
 
If I can remember correctly:
1. Wash with water, then sodium sulfate to harden.
2. There are no color negatives only B&W.
3. About anything that holds water.
4. No need for a darkroom, the picture and negative are already processed.
5. No scanner, sorry but have some nice negatives I would like to scan.
 
Polaroid used to make a bucket with dividers and a snap on lid, which you could use in the field to hold negs in a sodium sulfite solution, which would clear the processing "gel" off. When you got to the house, you could then wash them, photo-flo (wetting agent) and hang in a dust free place to dry.

I'll bet you could do an internet search and find the correct chemical measurements to make up a clearing bath, particularly since they still make the P/N film. I think it is sodium sulfite, which is a very commmon component of film developers, and available from suppliers such as Artcraft Chemicals. There is no fixing required for Polaroid negatives, just "clearing". And of course washing and drying.

Here is a hint....the best negative will not result in the best polaroid print. In other words, the best negative exposure will not result in the best peel off print from the processing of the negative. If I recall correctly, the best negative is when the Polaroid peel-off print is quite light.
 
The neg/pos Polaroid pack film is Type 665, and they say it's ISO 75. I too have heard the ideal exposure is not the same for the neg as for the "proof print", and if ISO 75 produces a good print, and a light print means a good neg, then perhaps Todd's comment about using ISO 50 is about right...
 
Thank you all! Todd, I believe that second link was exactly what I was looking for. Now I really can't wait until the camera gets here!
 
Look at the Line pairs for sharpness. 13-16LP for the print, 160-180LP for the negative. No wonder the prints I had looked so bad, but the negative was great. I took a pic of my 1954 Zenith transoceanic radio with a Polaroid 250 from about 8ft away and every small bit of lettering on the dial is very readable, some print is very small. I guess the ultimate would be to have the Polaroid 600 pro camera. Huge rangefinder, interchangable lenses, etc. This is about the cheapest way into Medium format shooting. I see these Polaroid 100-400 all the time for $20 or less. Several still had good batteries in them, you can convert them to use regular batteries or buy the real ones from Polaroid for $7 or so..Of couse you can even do image transfers with them and color film.
 
Great....Reading these polaroid threads got me thinking about geting another model 250....well good day at the flea market today turned up a nice model 250 with case, flash flash bulbs and cold clip for $5...Super clean need to get a battery in it now.
 
Sodium sulphite saturated solution. Then wash in plain water. Don't dabble your fingers in the sulphite (not sulpohate), or if you do, wash them SOON. Otherwise you invite horrible painful cracked skin. I know -- I did it.

Cheers,

Roger
 
Here is the formula for 18% Sodium Sulfite solution for clearing polaroid Type 665 and Type 55 P/N negatives.

Warm Water 2 liters (70 oz for those of us in the U.S.A.)
Sodium Sulfite Powder 440 grams (16 oz. avdp.)
(anhydrous/desiccated)

Slowly add the sodium sulfite to the water, stir continously until the powder is dissolved. Allow to cool to 21 degrees C (70 degrees F) before using.


I have used larger ziplock bags for each negative in the field as they are easily scratched if you pile several on top of one another. I also use Tupperware type containers with snap lock tops. The negatives really are amazing.

Wayne
 
or, if you don't have scales, (8 tablespoons to 1 liter of water), as above.
yes, this film material is beautiful stuff. it used to be that one should expose the print at about 60 or 50 and the negative for 30 or 25 iso. this was for the 55pn. yes, the negs are fragile so treat them with care.
 
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