Advice On Spotmeter Purchase?

[jyl]

I'm thinking about getting a spotmeter. A long time ago, I had a Pentax Spotmeter V (the one with an analog dial on the
side), but I don't want to get another one - it was too bulky. So, on eBay I see two other main choices: Pentax Digital Spotmeter and Minolta Spotmeter F. Can anyone advise me on the pros and cons of these? Basically, my needs/wants are: 1 reliable, 2 accurate, 3 easy to use, and 4 lower price - in that order.

 

[doubs43]

Doesn't Sekonic also make a meter that takes a spot reading attachment? Very highly regarded IIRC. Possibly the LunaPro.

Walker

 

[jyl]

Thanks for pointing out the Sekonics. I will investigate those too.

I have a Luna Pro, and guess I could get a spot attachment, but seems it would sort of clutter up the nice simple Luna Pro and still wouldn't give me a 1 degree meter.

I'm also seeing references to Pentax spot meters "modified by Zone VI". What does that mean?

 

[stevew]

Zone VI

Zone VI

They used to modify them to improve the lineraty and installed filters to correct some color bias problems.

Steve

 

[doubs43]

I'm also seeing references to Pentax spot meters "modified by Zone VI". What does that mean?

"Zone VI" is the name of a company that has essentially built a business around the zone system of photography. It's really not complicated and I use the zone system when I meter a scene for exposure.

All reflective exposure meters read everything as if it were an 18% gray card or "zone V". Using that as a starting point, you can vary how an object appears in the photograph by assigning it a zone value and exposing to achieve that effect.

Example: I want to photograph a black car. I get a reading of 1/125 at f/8 which would place the black of the finish at Zone V or render it as an 18% gray shade in the picture were I to expose at the above reading. I decide to place the black at Zone II which means I want it to have LESS exposure to give a thinner negative and thus a darker car. I thus alter my exposure to account for three f-stops difference or f/11 at 1/500 or f/16 at 1/250 or f/22 at 1/125.

For the zone system to actually work as intended, you MUST know exactly what your equipment is doing. It usually takes some experimenting but if used properly it will give you beautiful photographs in B&W.

To answer your questio specifically, Zone VI has modified the Pentax meter to indicate zones, making it easier for the photographer to use the zone system.

Walker

 

[g0tr00t]

Example: I want to photograph a black car. I get a reading of 1/125 at f/8 which would place the black of the finish at Zone V or render it as an 18% gray shade in the picture were I to expose at the above reading. I decide to place the black at Zone II which means I want it to have LESS exposure to give a thinner negative and thus a darker car. I thus alter my exposure to account for three f-stops difference or f/11 at 1/500 or f/16 at 1/250 or f/22 at 1/125.

Walker

That makes so much sense. I am wrestiling with the ZONE SYSTEM and still trying to get a hang of it....:bang:

 

[doubs43]

"I am wrestiling with the ZONE SYSTEM and still trying to get a hang of it...."

David, I still have to stop and think about what I'm doing. I was away from photography for some years and what used to be automatic now requires conscious thought. The more I use it, the easier it's becoming.

The most difficult part - for me, anyway - is comprehending that a higher zone value requires more exposure to give a denser negative which means lighter tones. That means a slower shutter speed or larger f-stop or a combination of both. A lower zone value requires just the opposite and I don't know how many times I've gone the wrong way! But, it's getting easier now.

Walker

 

[jyl]

After looking at more models of spotmeter, I'm leaning toward the Pentax Digital Spotmeter for the analog calculator rings. (Maybe it should be called the "semi-digital" spotmeter.)

Probably won't spend the bucks for a Zone VI-modified meter, after doing some research on them, Check this out: http://www.butzi.net/articles/zone VI worth it.htm He compared a modified and un-modified meters in various situations and the readings seldom differed, and even then seldom by more than 1/3 stop.

 

[Doug]

I have a Pentax digital spotmeter, but haven't spoken up here because I have nothing useful to say about it or its competition. I bought it when my wife was getting into theatre photography, which she hasn't now been doing for some years. I've never used it, just checked to see that it works. Probably should sell it. I have a Zone VI leather "holster" for it too, and I think the box, etc.

 

[jyl]

Doug, if you decide to sell it, let me know.

 

[Doug]

John, I'll dig it out when we get home from vacation, find the box, etc. Need to do some research on fair pricing. Yeah, it's available; I've had it around and unused for too long to believe I'll ever use it! Interestingly, it takes the same 6v battery as my 6x7.

 

[laptoprob]

Anyone knows the Bewi-zoom meter? Special setting for low light, special setting for spot. Zoom means you can measure a field of about 75mm to zbout 300mm equivalent. And within that, a spot metering of the center piece. Wonderful easy analogue meter! The only hassle is the 'cpoying' of the EV value to the usual disk system for reading f and speed.

Rob.

 

[Bertram2]

Can anyone advise me on the pros and cons of these? Basically, my needs/wants are: 1 reliable, 2 accurate, 3 easy to use, and 4 lower price - in that order.

Not on these but I'd like to point out an alternative system which could be interesting for you iif you don't own and use other meters for incident and flash already.
Gossen Starlite is an all-in-one system which I use and enjoy since three years.It has a 1° and a 5° spot and the usual incident and flash functions. More infos here:

http://www.gossen.de/english/seiten/gossen-photo.htm

Best,
Bertram

 

[Honu-Hugger]

I have used the Minolta Spotmeter F for years; never used anything else so can not compare, but if it ever disappeared I would buy another without hesitation -- I love it. Another factor towards my bias is I also use a Minolta FlashMeter (incident light meter with flash capability) and the settings/readouts are very similar on both units, sort of a seamless transition between the two.