advice requested - hasselblad kit

[david.elliott]

So, now that I've managed to sell some of my gear, I'd like to purchase a hasselblad kit. Looking for some advice. I love my rolleiflex but sometimes I get frustrated when I really need a faster / slower film or wish I had a color roll loaded. Having a hasselblad kit with two backs should help alleviate those grumbles.

I figure I'll purchase the following:

1 - late 500c/m with acute matte screen or a 501c. The newer cameras with the gliding mirror system really up the price so I'm going to shy away from those.
2 - waist level finder.
3 - two A12 backs.

Anything in particular I need to be aware of when shopping for the above?

The real sticking point is trying to figure out what lens to get. The good ole 80/2.8 is of course the standard lens. Cant go wrong there. While I love the focal length on my Rollei, I kind of want to try something different so I am not duplicating it. Of course, if I get a different lens, I may seriously miss having the 80mm.

I have read that the 100mm has less distortion than the 80mm and may / may not be (internet controversy 😛) sharper than the 80 as well. The 100 seems to be a fair bit more expensive than the 80 and is a tad slower.

I'm very much intrigued by the possibility of doing macro photography on medium format film. With an extension tube, the 120mm can get to half lifesize if I remember right. So, that would be an option.

I havent been able to dig up too much about the 60mm, but it seems like it could be a solid option as well. The 50mm is very highly spoken of.

And, I do want to pick up a portrait lens down the line so that means either the 150 or 180.

I'm looking to just buy one lens now or possibly two if I can find a good buy on the 150 / 180. I do want to keep an eye toward a long-term kit. Dont want to sell / buy lenses down the line because focal lengths were too close to begin with. Hope that makes sense.

So, thoughts and opinions on the 60 / 80 / 100 / 120? Looking forward to hearing what you all have to say, and of course seeing any photos which you may want to share too.

And, thoughts on opinions on the 150 as compared to the 180?

By the way, do these lenses tend to flare or are they good to go without a hood?

Thanks!

-David

 

[damien.murphy]

If you're happy with your Rollei, then perhaps the complimentary pair of a 50mm & 120mm on a Hasselblad ? If you feel like you need an 80mm in the future, then you are always free to add one.

This is the pair I've considered in the past, before I realised I didn't have the funds 🙂

EDIT: For what it's worth, I found the 150mm too long for portraits, but then I've always been a 75/ 80mm kinda guy for portraits on 35mm.

 

[ChrisN]

My set of lenses covers the 50, 80 and 150, so I can't offer any advice on the others. I'm not a particularly critical user, and I'm happy with my odd mix - "C" lenses in the 50 and 80, and a "CF" in the 150. Which brings me to a suggestion - try to get all your lenses in the same series, C or CF etc, so that the filters are all the same size fitting. For me 60 would be too close to 80, and the 40 was too heavy (and too close to the SWC which I had always wanted and now have). Ditto the longer side - 120 would be too close to 80, and 150's are common and not too expensive. Have fun!

 

[david.elliott]

If you're happy with your Rollei, then perhaps the complimentary pair of a 50mm & 120mm on a Hasselblad ? If you feel like you need an 80mm in the future, then you are always free to add one.

This is the pair I've considered in the past, before I realised I didn't have the funds 🙂

EDIT: For what it's worth, I found the 150mm too long for portraits, but then I've always been a 75/ 80mm kinda guy for portraits on 35mm.

I've sold off some gear to afford the incoming hasselblad items. 🙂

I think I'll probably skip the 80 for now. Like you said, can always add one later. They seem to be around in abundance.

Isnt 90mm on 35mm film roughly equivalent to a 150mm in 6x6? Or is my math wrong?

 

[david.elliott]

My set of lenses covers the 50, 80 and 150, so I can't offer any advice on the others. I'm not a particularly critical user, and I'm happy with my odd mix - "C" lenses in the 50 and 80, and a "CF" in the 150. Which brings me to a suggestion - try to get all your lenses in the same series, C or CF etc, so that the filters are all the same size fitting. For me 60 would be too close to 80, and the 40 was too heavy (and too close to the SWC which I had always wanted and now have). Ditto the longer side - 120 would be too close to 80, and 150's are common and not too expensive. Have fun!

Thanks Chris. Good call on making sure the lenses are from the same series. Hadn't even thought of that.

Maybe I should go 50 / 120 as a kit. Or, 50 / 80 / 150. Hmm.

 

[Rob-F]

Just a few remarks:

The 120mm is a Macro lens. If you want to take the sharpest possible picture at close range, that's your lens. If you want to photograph at longer distances, the 150 is better corrected for that purpose. Dr. Fleischer at Zeiss said that the 120 is best to photograph anything the size of your computer screen or smaller; the 150 is right for anything the size of a window or larger.

Yes, the 100mm Planar was designed for scientific purposes, such as NASA; and is lower in distortion and more highly corrected than the 80. The 80 is slightly retrofocus (again, according to Dr. Fleischer) in order to clear the mirror; and thus there is some distortion.

The 60mm lens should not be overlooked. It is well corrected, and the focal length is very useable. I will use it as my "walkabout lens." It's like shooting with a 35 or 40mm on a Leica.

If you get the 50mm, get the late model that has floating elements. It's better than earlier 50's.

When purchasing film backs, know that they go out of adjustment, causing overlapping spacing. Make sure you get one that has had a CLA, or else figure the cost of a CLA into the purchase price.

 

[lbenac]

For my own purpose, I have made a simple focal length equivalent of the camera/lens I owned which includes a Hassy and 50/80/150 among other formats.
It is attached if you are interested to have a look.

Cheers,

Luc

 

[PentHassyKon]

....
The 60mm lens should not be overlooked. It is well corrected, and the focal length is very useable. I will use it as my "walkabout lens." It's like shooting with a 35 or 40mm on a Leica.

If you get the 50mm, get the late model that has floating elements. It's better than earlier 50's.

When purchasing film backs, know that they go out of adjustment, causing overlapping spacing. Make sure you get one that has had a CLA, or else figure the cost of a CLA into the purchase price.

I had a similar dilemma when purchasing my Hassellblad (do we say Hassy or Blad for short?) back in late 80's/early 90's. Main purpose was to shoot weddings and for portraiture so I knew I wanted a wide/semi-wide. Wanted to get the 50 for wide and the 80 but of course - $$$. So compromised and got the 60 instead of the 50/80 combo. Like Rob, I find the 60 is somewhat equivalent to a 35/40mm - excellent as a "walkabout" all purpose lens. I lost 1/2 stop (f3.5 vs f2.8) compared to the 80 but for my purpose I was mostly @ "f8 don't be late". Since 80-90% of my shots used the wide/normal I bought the 60 and opted to rent a 120/150 for portrait and product shots.

As far as backs - look for matching serial no for inserts to back. You can also tell if the seals are ok by seeing the condition of the dark slide - pull the dark slide in/out a couple of times and see if there is residue that sticks to it. If you get residue it may indicate that the seals are deteriorating and need replacement. Deteriorating seals may equate to light leaks. I'm told seal replacement is an easy DIY.

All CF or all C lenses is also a good suggestion although the CF's being newer may be less of an issue - also slightly more $.

good luck.

 

[PentHassyKon]

For my own purpose, I have made a simple focal length equivalent of the camera/lens I owned which includes a Hassy and 50/80/150 among other formats.
It is attached if you are interested to have a look.

Cheers,

Luc

Luc- what is the 6x6 60 equivalent to?

 

[Haigh]

On my 500c I have the 80mm Zeiss and I have a 120mm s-planar lens. Both of these are very crisp lenses. I have use longer focal lengths but I don't care for the compressesed look they give. I do like a wider view. Do't know if this helps or not but enjoy your Hassie anyway.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

All of them are so good you'll be more than happy...

I use the 2003FCW, with in camera shutter, so my 50 and 150 are 2.8 as my 80, a stop faster than usual 50's and 150's, and the camera has a 1/2000 shutter... I used it seeing the image inverted for years, and yes, finally I use the prism more: as someone said, I use a view camera, but seeing the image the right way can be very important sometimes... I bought my 50 and my 150 first, and just after a few years I got the 80... All of them are equally important. If I had to choose one, it would be my 150 2.8 Sonnar for portraits.

Hasselblads are so great... You'll enjoy a lot...


Cheers,

Juan

 

[david.elliott]

For my own purpose, I have made a simple focal length equivalent of the camera/lens I owned which includes a Hassy and 50/80/150 among other formats.
It is attached if you are interested to have a look.

Cheers,

Luc

Thank you Luc. Very informative!

 

[david.elliott]

On my 500c I have the 80mm Zeiss and I have a 120mm s-planar lens. Both of these are very crisp lenses. I have use longer focal lengths but I don't care for the compressesed look they give. I do like a wider view. Do't know if this helps or not but enjoy your Hassie anyway.

Thanks Gary! I'm excited about it.

 

[david.elliott]

Just a few remarks:

The 120mm is a Macro lens. If you want to take the sharpest possible picture at close range, that's your lens. If you want to photograph at longer distances, the 150 is better corrected for that purpose. Dr. Fleischer at Zeiss said that the 120 is best to photograph anything the size of your computer screen or smaller; the 150 is right for anything the size of a window or larger.

Yes, the 100mm Planar was designed for scientific purposes, such as NASA; and is lower in distortion and more highly corrected than the 80. The 80 is slightly retrofocus (again, according to Dr. Fleischer) in order to clear the mirror; and thus there is some distortion.

The 60mm lens should not be overlooked. It is well corrected, and the focal length is very useable. I will use it as my "walkabout lens." It's like shooting with a 35 or 40mm on a Leica.

If you get the 50mm, get the late model that has floating elements. It's better than earlier 50's.

When purchasing film backs, know that they go out of adjustment, causing overlapping spacing. Make sure you get one that has had a CLA, or else figure the cost of a CLA into the purchase price.

Thanks Rob. Great info.

I really, really want to do medium format macro photography. I love taking macro photos with my e-p2 and 50/4 macro tak lens. 😀 I will definitely pick up the 120, but will probably do that later down the line. I dont think that I can swing the 120 and another lens currently.

Hmm. I probably use a 35mm focal length more than 50mm. Going to have to look into the 60mm more.

Thank you for the heads up regarding the backs.

 

[david.elliott]

I would suggest that ChrisN's advice be about the only guide you need to follow: keeping the filter set simple. Few things will frustrate you as much as maintaining two sets of appropriate filters for B&W and colour photography. Bay 60 or Bay 50 but not both. The lenses are all stellar. I went for a 100 and 250. But that's me. The rest is internet controversy.
Personally, I spent the money on a prism finder. The right-to-left flip flop is just stupid. And this from a guy who shoots field cameras.

Enjoy. I thought the Hasselblad, when I was using it, was the pinnacle of square format.

Shane

Hi Shane,

I'm not bothered by the reversed image. Quite used to it from my Rollei. I'm not sure that the camera would fit in my bag if I used a prism finder with it anyway, but I can look into that more later on.

Does the 250 cause a lot of vignetting when looking through the prism finder?

 

[david.elliott]

All of them are so good you'll be more than happy...

I use the 2003FCW, with in camera shutter, so my 50 and 150 are 2.8 as my 80, a stop faster than usual 50's and 150's, and the camera has a 1/2000 shutter... I used it seeing the image inverted for years, and yes, finally I use the prism more: as someone said, I use a view camera, but seeing the image the right way can be very important sometimes... I bought my 50 and my 150 first, and just after a few years I got the 80... All of them are equally important. If I had to choose one, it would be my 150 2.8 Sonnar for portraits.

Hasselblads are so great... You'll enjoy a lot...


Cheers,

Juan

Cheers Juan,

I am sure you are correct about the lenses. It seems like I really cannot go wrong no matter what I choose.

 

[david.elliott]

I had a similar dilemma when purchasing my Hassellblad (do we say Hassy or Blad for short?) back in late 80's/early 90's. Main purpose was to shoot weddings and for portraiture so I knew I wanted a wide/semi-wide. Wanted to get the 50 for wide and the 80 but of course - $$$. So compromised and got the 60 instead of the 50/80 combo. Like Rob, I find the 60 is somewhat equivalent to a 35/40mm - excellent as a "walkabout" all purpose lens. I lost 1/2 stop (f3.5 vs f2.8) compared to the 80 but for my purpose I was mostly @ "f8 don't be late". Since 80-90% of my shots used the wide/normal I bought the 60 and opted to rent a 120/150 for portrait and product shots.

As far as backs - look for matching serial no for inserts to back. You can also tell if the seals are ok by seeing the condition of the dark slide - pull the dark slide in/out a couple of times and see if there is residue that sticks to it. If you get residue it may indicate that the seals are deteriorating and need replacement. Deteriorating seals may equate to light leaks. I'm told seal replacement is an easy DIY.

All CF or all C lenses is also a good suggestion although the CF's being newer may be less of an issue - also slightly more $.

good luck.

Happy to hear some good remarks about the 60.

Thanks for the heads up and tip regarding the backs.

Now I just have to wait for my lunch break so that I can do even more research and do some shopping around to check prices. 😀

 

[thegman]

I just got into Hasselblad myself, with the 50mm lens on a 503cx. I love the mirror lockup function on the 503cx, and would not buy another Hasselblad without it. The 50mm lens is great, but it is *very* wide and only suits subjects where the wide angle is a boon. I find it too wide for normal landscapes, and just ordered a 150mm to give that a try.

I like the waist-level finder, would not bother with prism, but that's just me, it's a personal choice. The multiple backs are great, as loading in the field is a pain.

I sold my Mamiya 7 for the Hasselblad and don't regret it at all, the Hasselblads are awesome cameras.

 

[kkdanamatt]

IMHO the best lenses with bang for the buck: 50mm and 120mm. Your Rollei already has an 80mm, and as was said before, you can always add an 80mm for the 'Blad. Look for chrome T* C lenses...they are often cheaper than the black lenses and have the same glass. The 120mm is awesome for close-ups and it doubles as a portrait lens. The 50mm is a great walk-around outdoor lens, about equal to a 35mm focal length in the 35mm format. Indoors, the 50mm is excellent for group shots and interiors. Definitely get lens shades! Examine the glass and the shutters very carefully before you plunk down your cash. CLA's on Hasselblad lenses are not cheap.

For the body, I'd get the regular 500C/M. They are cheap and easy to service. Look for wear on the back end...those cameras have seen a lot of back-swapping. As for the backs, make sure the insert serial number matches the back shell serial number. I'd get two or three A12's, they are very cheap and new light seals are easy to install yourself. I have never needed an Accu-Matte Screen, but that depends on your eyesight/vision/shooting style.

Good luck.

 

[mfogiel]

I would advise as follows:
Hasselblad 501C for the gliding mirror if you want to use anything longer than 100mm, and if you get the 500CM, get the acute matte screen
- Distagon 60/3.5 CF or CB
- Makro Planar 120/4 CF or CB(I think there were a few in the CB version)
-period (think of the 35/75 combo in 35mm).

The 60 is a fantastic landscape and environmental purpose lens, while the MP is one of the best lenses in the Hassy line for portraiture and close up - but stopped down to f 11 -16 it can do also landscape or architecture. For a longer portrait lens, I would recommend the 150 Sonnar, as it is less clinical in its rendering.
Avoid lenses earlier than CF or CB for spare parts availability reason.

Distagon 60

MP 120