philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃı&
Nice photos overall so well done.
Here's one click in CS5's Curves using the grey eye dropper on the concrete in the first image and on one of the roofs in the second.
Here's one click in CS5's Curves using the grey eye dropper on the concrete in the first image and on one of the roofs in the second.
Cheapthrills
Member
Thanks, I'll try that on my colour scans when I get home tonight. Makes quite a big difference.
Sunday was a bit of a let down. Was far too wet in London and I wasn't able to find anything particularly interesting. Will try and finish a roll off this week.
Cheapthrills
Member
Still haven't had a chance to finish a roll.
But I did get the plustek today, had a quick try to compare the quality and am impressed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59290012@N05/12212497933/in/set-72157640301155944/
The last one is the old scan the first 2 from the plustek, the detail in the clothes seems much better. Will have a proper run through more of the negatives on Sunday.
But I did get the plustek today, had a quick try to compare the quality and am impressed.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59290012@N05/12212497933/in/set-72157640301155944/
The last one is the old scan the first 2 from the plustek, the detail in the clothes seems much better. Will have a proper run through more of the negatives on Sunday.
Cheapthrills
Member
That was a 16 pass scan on the plustek. I did a quick scan prior to that and the difference is quite noticeable.
I've been using Vuescan and noticed that it has "film profiles", though not for the film I was scanning. I assume they just are some presets to calibrate the scanner. Are these any good and I should I look into getting a profile for the film I'm using? I assume I can buy them?
rfaspen
[insert pithy phrase here]
Hey, that looks pretty darn good!
I have Silverfast instead of Vuescan, but they both have film presets. I just try different ones until I get the appropriate look. Keep in mind PP is where the real improvements come in. The scan should simply maximize/optimize the capture of information from the negative, retain resolution as much as possible, and introduce as little noise as possible. That won't always look like a "final product" image in the preview during scanning. Just make sure you're getting as much shadow detail as possible while keeping highlights from blasting away (as much as possible). If the contrast and whatnot doesn't look good, don't worry about it. Just get the info into a scan (file) and then play with stuff like contrast, etc. in Photoshop/Lightroom/whatever. I'm probably repeating old hat, but worth repeating I think. BTW, I've never seen additional film presets for Vuescan or Silverfast, but there's PP software with quite a range of film presets that you use after scanning (e.g., SilverEfex).
So, you're getting nice images now... No?
I have Silverfast instead of Vuescan, but they both have film presets. I just try different ones until I get the appropriate look. Keep in mind PP is where the real improvements come in. The scan should simply maximize/optimize the capture of information from the negative, retain resolution as much as possible, and introduce as little noise as possible. That won't always look like a "final product" image in the preview during scanning. Just make sure you're getting as much shadow detail as possible while keeping highlights from blasting away (as much as possible). If the contrast and whatnot doesn't look good, don't worry about it. Just get the info into a scan (file) and then play with stuff like contrast, etc. in Photoshop/Lightroom/whatever. I'm probably repeating old hat, but worth repeating I think. BTW, I've never seen additional film presets for Vuescan or Silverfast, but there's PP software with quite a range of film presets that you use after scanning (e.g., SilverEfex).
So, you're getting nice images now... No?
Cheapthrills
Member
HI Rfa. Yup much happier with the image quality.
Thanks for the tips on post processing(I had read a page outlining what you said but can't seem to find it any more), I've been playing around on lightoom the past few days I just need to lock down a workflow and get out shooting.
My issue right now is shooting something interesting, everything I've shot in the past couple of weeks feels so damn boring.
I've been heading out with a meetup group to some interesting places, but I think a combination of most people have some kind of telephoto lens and hanging back with the group means my framing is off and I'm "not close enough".
Overall it's been a good experience, I'm also finding I can spot good photo opportunities... and then miss them, so I've got to work on my zone focusing and being a bit quicker.
Thanks for the tips on post processing(I had read a page outlining what you said but can't seem to find it any more), I've been playing around on lightoom the past few days I just need to lock down a workflow and get out shooting.
My issue right now is shooting something interesting, everything I've shot in the past couple of weeks feels so damn boring.
I've been heading out with a meetup group to some interesting places, but I think a combination of most people have some kind of telephoto lens and hanging back with the group means my framing is off and I'm "not close enough".
Overall it's been a good experience, I'm also finding I can spot good photo opportunities... and then miss them, so I've got to work on my zone focusing and being a bit quicker.