The White Horse Bar, Hudson St. and 11th St. was a hangout for many famous literary types, Dylan Thomas being one. Kerouac was thrown out of there several times. I also manged to find the apartment building W.H. Auden lived in for twenty years, a block that is still pretty poor although not as sketchy as in the 1970s. For all its size New York is an eminently walkable city (for my wife and I, but we hike a good deal), and it smells better than in the subway. Many of the old neighborhoods are being rebuilt into insanely expensive condos and insanely expensive hip, low density clothing shops. Cities change, even the ones which don't, so take lots of pictures.
But let me say this: It's easy to attach a lot of cultural baggage to New York. The history, artists, writers, photographers, museums, etc. But as my brother-in-law told me, New York "is always in the process of becoming", and nothing could be more true. It is utterly unique, as are its people. It's also bankrupt and evidence of its decay is everywhere, alongside the evidence of its vast past and current wealth. It is best just to throw yourself headlong into everything it offers; the next time you visit it will be different in some indefinable way. I've been there only once and I ate a lot of crow while there. Just jump, you can sleep on the plane.
The traffic is managed chaos. Energizing at first but that will wear off, believe me. I found the theater district too crowded and Times Square was overwhelmed with tourists but the gigantic TV screens were something you might see in 'Tokyo meets Bladerunner'. I recall being on Hudson St and looking over my shoulder only to be startled to see in the distance the Empire State Building, alone, towering over everything around it. As if it still was The Tallest. Take away the cars and it was 1940. There are simple surprises everywhere and, as mentioned earlier, the people are truly friendly. But keep your kit simple and tune your situational awareness. I was cased on Madison Ave. and maybe 37th St. by a young man who decided he needed to tie his running shoe, using the fire hydrant, right next to me. I gave him a very long return stare and he ambled off.
I found the coffee everywhere to be terrible. You'll love it.
Oh, here's some places we ate:
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]CoCotte. Basque tapas. South of Washington Square I think. Awesome. Tiny.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sam's Place. Across the street from Pod39. Italian, very good, I thought. Not too expensive-for New York.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Le Rivage. Theater District. Prix fixe. Very good.[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Alidoro. 39th st. near Pod39. Sandwiches were what we bought.[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]