astroman
-
I use aperture priority mode with my dslr when I shoot wildlife with big lens as the window of oportunity is limited in most cases.But I love using my M6 for all my other photography forces me to think about the shot a little more.
narsuitus
Well-known
Some of my cameras are battery-independent manual/mechanical with no built-in light meter.
Some of my cameras are manual/mechanical cameras that only need batteries for the built-in light meter.
Some of my cameras are battery-dependent automatic/electronic that offer automatic exposure control (AE).
You ask if I need AE. My answer is no. I do not need AE when I am:
1. Shooting with flash units.
2. Using a handheld light meter
3. Using the Sunny 16 Exposure Guide
You ask if I prefer battery independence. My answer is yes. Even though I use cameras that depend on batteries and those that do not, I have a personal preference for battery independent cameras.
Some of my cameras are manual/mechanical cameras that only need batteries for the built-in light meter.
Some of my cameras are battery-dependent automatic/electronic that offer automatic exposure control (AE).
You ask if I need AE. My answer is no. I do not need AE when I am:
1. Shooting with flash units.
2. Using a handheld light meter
3. Using the Sunny 16 Exposure Guide
You ask if I prefer battery independence. My answer is yes. Even though I use cameras that depend on batteries and those that do not, I have a personal preference for battery independent cameras.
wontonny
Well-known
No. I dont like my camera telling me what to do.
Papercut
Well-known
AE for when I'm in a social situation (out with friends, etc.) and photography is not the prime motivation/purpose ... non-AE for when I'm shooting seriously on the street. So I chose "don't care" as closest fit...
oftheherd
Veteran
The only rf I have with AE is the Canonet and the Olympus SP, oh, and a Petri I seldom use.
My first AE was the Fujica ST901, which has AP. I quickly learned to appreciate that very much. It was quite accurate, and I knew when it might not be so I could compensate. What I really like about it was for crime scene processing. I might have to search for a correct shutter speed with SP, but with AP I could just compose, focus, including DOF, and trip the shutter. It was the same with the Contax 139Q I had, although it would not make as long exposures. However, its otf flash was superb.
However, using my Press 23 or my folders, or anything else without a built in meter, like the Kiev, I use a light meter without feeling bad. It's just the way to do it.
My first AE was the Fujica ST901, which has AP. I quickly learned to appreciate that very much. It was quite accurate, and I knew when it might not be so I could compensate. What I really like about it was for crime scene processing. I might have to search for a correct shutter speed with SP, but with AP I could just compose, focus, including DOF, and trip the shutter. It was the same with the Contax 139Q I had, although it would not make as long exposures. However, its otf flash was superb.
However, using my Press 23 or my folders, or anything else without a built in meter, like the Kiev, I use a light meter without feeling bad. It's just the way to do it.
Bnack
Established
When I bought my ZI was sure that I wanted a camera with AE.... and at first that was how I usually shot. But then ask i got more used to the camera, and how it meters I would start fiddling a lot with under and over compensation based on how expected the scene to meter.... and now I often find myself foregoing the AE and just setting it manually so I don't even need to bother with AE lock (it's a tricky button for me to hit since I view with my left eye), or under/over exposures. So... slowly but surely I've been migrating over to manual exposure, and as I get better at it... it really doesn't take me much longer than if I was gong to be messing with under/overexposure/AE lock anyways.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
First you look at the scene, decide what the exposure should be, then set the camera. The last thing you do if time allows is make a reading with your meter. I prefer incident readings. After some practice and experience your eye, brain, and fingers make a pretty good AE. You get to the point where the meter will be within half a stop or so. I prefer using a selenium cell Weston Master V. It needs no batteries.
With any kind of built in meter your entire camera goes in the shop if the meter craps out.
With any kind of built in meter your entire camera goes in the shop if the meter craps out.
Last edited:
Gary E
Well-known
If the subjects are buildings, sculptures, mountain ranges or anything stationary, i usually guess and confirm with my Weston Master IV. All else such as kids birthday parties, weddings and anything moving in and out of changing lighting conditions I prefer AE and even AF sometimes. If it's an outdoor event where light doesn't change quickly I usually take an incident reading and shoot manually (if camera doesn't have AE).
If any one is used to using an M without a meter, they would set it according to the light conditions as they move about in and out of those light conditions. It's kind of automatic response since I started RF with an M3.
If any one is used to using an M without a meter, they would set it according to the light conditions as they move about in and out of those light conditions. It's kind of automatic response since I started RF with an M3.
mfogiel
Veteran
I don't think there's anything to be proud about if one is using AE, because it would always be better to have the time and right instruments to set "your" ideal exposure.
However in practical life, even for someone like me who shoots predominantly B&W, there is a price to pay in terms of reaction time and hence potentially degraded image quality or images missed altogether if you don't use it.
I do use the AE always in my street shots, and whenever I feel the AE can be substantially fooled, or the light contrast becomes extreme, I try to compensate by using the AE lock and/or exposure compensation on the camera. I find that the M7 and Zeiss Ikon both have a very good system of AE lock, while the Bessas are a bit more cumbersome.
However in practical life, even for someone like me who shoots predominantly B&W, there is a price to pay in terms of reaction time and hence potentially degraded image quality or images missed altogether if you don't use it.
I do use the AE always in my street shots, and whenever I feel the AE can be substantially fooled, or the light contrast becomes extreme, I try to compensate by using the AE lock and/or exposure compensation on the camera. I find that the M7 and Zeiss Ikon both have a very good system of AE lock, while the Bessas are a bit more cumbersome.
user237428934
User deletion pending
I absolutely agree!
I missed some shots with my M6 because I was too slow setting the right exposure. Should sell it, but somehow I can't.
With my M8 I have AE but I can switch to manual settings if I want to.
dovevadar
DoveVadar
AE is almost like an insult.
Im not for battery independence but AE "detach" me from my picture. Come on, touch your heart, comparing negatives you have uniquely exposed manually and those from AE mode, you surely do "feel" more for the manually exposed ones right? I don't know, I always feel that way.. .. AE exposed shots are more "robot-like" to me. I dont feel myself inside the shot since the camera is deciding 30% of how my shot will turn out.
Christmas is coming, everyone is going to hit town with their cameras, I will prefer my lighting to be "different" from other though we are shooting the same giant Christmas tree.
Im not for battery independence but AE "detach" me from my picture. Come on, touch your heart, comparing negatives you have uniquely exposed manually and those from AE mode, you surely do "feel" more for the manually exposed ones right? I don't know, I always feel that way.. .. AE exposed shots are more "robot-like" to me. I dont feel myself inside the shot since the camera is deciding 30% of how my shot will turn out.
Christmas is coming, everyone is going to hit town with their cameras, I will prefer my lighting to be "different" from other though we are shooting the same giant Christmas tree.
Last edited:
Nh3
Well-known
Human eye is far too sophisticated and adopts very easily to lighting conditions and therefore not to be trusted.
capitalK
Warrior Poet :P
I have an R2A but I really only use the AE when I'm driving. I set the lens to hyperfocal and put the camera on AE and if something happens I can grab the camera from the passenger seat and get a shot. I try to be safe about it, I've only jumped the curb once
Al Kaplan
Veteran
If your human eye adapts too readily try using your human brain. There are industry accepted standards as to how bright offices and stores should be. Too dim and the merchandise doesn't look right. Too bright and and the electric cost goes up. One Home Depot is the same as the next and the Office Depot and Office Max will be within a fraction of a stop of one another. Offices too are lit to a standard.
The shady side of the street is about three stops darker than the sunny side but use that brain. Is the building light colored, reflecting lots of light? Or dark and not reflecting much?
Modern home kitchens are also usually lit to a standard. In the living room, which is lit by a mix of floor and table lamps with usually either 60 or 100 watt bulbs, you'll need to do more thinking. Remember "guide numbers" used with manual flash units in the bad old days? The concept works with continuous light sources as well. A face 3 feet from a table lamp that meters 1/30 at f/4 will need 1/30 at f/2 if it's six feet away.
The problem with auto exposure is that the meter has no idea of what it's reading. It doesn't know if there's a light source in the photo or it's a photo of a guy in a black suit against a dark background. You do.
The shady side of the street is about three stops darker than the sunny side but use that brain. Is the building light colored, reflecting lots of light? Or dark and not reflecting much?
Modern home kitchens are also usually lit to a standard. In the living room, which is lit by a mix of floor and table lamps with usually either 60 or 100 watt bulbs, you'll need to do more thinking. Remember "guide numbers" used with manual flash units in the bad old days? The concept works with continuous light sources as well. A face 3 feet from a table lamp that meters 1/30 at f/4 will need 1/30 at f/2 if it's six feet away.
The problem with auto exposure is that the meter has no idea of what it's reading. It doesn't know if there's a light source in the photo or it's a photo of a guy in a black suit against a dark background. You do.
dovevadar
DoveVadar
hahaha.. well said! come on guys! driving is fun, you are in control, you determine your speed and you can crash into the car in front if you don't like the driver's face. But a cab driver wouldn't do that for you. ever.
dovevadar
DoveVadar
user237428934
User deletion pending
Sorry, but I want to have fun with photography. If I had to memorize all the 1000+ situations with the correct exposure settings it would spoil my hobby. So I just memorize a handfull of situations where my light meter gets confused and where I have to compensate or use the AE Lock feature.
Setting the correct exposure is very important in photography but that pure technical aspect distracts me the most from looking at the scene and finding a nice composition.
Last edited:
dovevadar
DoveVadar
true. you do have a point here and I think its valid. well, I guess there is no right or wrong... personal preferences again and how much of yourself do you want in your picture....
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
I use AE all the time when I'm not using sunny f16.
But I do know when to dial in +/- exposure compensation.
But I do know when to dial in +/- exposure compensation.
R
ruben
Guest
Hi,
I would like to see your opinions about Automatic Exposure on range-finder side of course. Why you want it? Similarly why you only care about fully manual rfs?
Thanks
Hi,
I think your phrasing or intent is very ambiguous. Thus for example I am desperate to have AE, but will never use a camera that doesnt enable me manual override, and not just manual override but fully manual alternative to AE in the same camera.
My main system camera for rangefinders are absolutely manual without any AE at all, a need I cover with different hand held meters according to the day.
Thus I can say:
a) Manual override is more important for me than AE
b) Nevertheless "I am desperate to have AE as part of my Kievs"
c) Manual override, or fully manual camera is more important for me than AE alone because I cannot trust a camera that I don't know what it is doing at some specific shots. I must have the upper manual control.
Therefore, fully manual cameras and desperation for AE are not contradictory.
You could better put the question by polling for two specific cameras like the GSN and the Konica Auto S2, both with extraordinary lens, the former not enabling to know the speed you are using, the second having both auto and fully manual.
Cheers,
Ruben