Affordable digital camera for film scanning

brothernature

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I've been using my iPhone to make "digital contact sheets" after developing, when I'm too impatient to see what I've got before I make traditional contact sheets. However, the results are okay enough with even an iPhone that I've been considering picking up a digital camera and skip the darkroom contact sheets altogether.

Can anyone recommend a ~24mp digital camera in the $200-300 range (or cheaper) that would be good for this?
 
I've been messing with a used Nikon d3300 and the 40mm Micro Nikkor with ES-1 slide attachment. Only issue I've found is it really needs ISO 100 and strong light, so I now shoot directly into an SB-700. Getting ok results. Negative lab pro also works well. My only issue is that I end up fussing with the raw files in Lightroom and dust. Not sure in the long run if it's more productive than and old Coolscan V.

If you're set on camera scanning the 5200 or 5300 would be better since it has the rotating screen.
 
I'm using a Sony Nex-7 (24mp, +/- $250) mated to a Pentax bellows II and slide copier (under $75 if you're patient) focused with a Rodenstock Rodagon 80mm f4 enlarging lens. Results are sharp enough to resolve the grain in a 35mm neg, and about as sharp as I could get with a quality enlarger/lens in a conventional darkroom.
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Any decent camera with RAW files will do better that phone. In addition to camera you will need macro lens, film, camera holding rig, light and diffuser.

With your budget you could get used Plustek scanner. My first Pultek model costed me 25 CAD, with everything, including original package, my latest model Plustek cost was bellow 400 USD.
 
Any decent camera with RAW files will do better that phone. In addition to camera you will need macro lens, film, camera holding rig, light and diffuser.

With your budget you could get used Plustek scanner. My first Pultek model costed me 25 CAD, with everything, including original package, my latest model Plustek cost was bellow 400 USD.

Does Plustek make a flatbed? My problem with getting a flatbed for scanning negative sleeves is that I could never find one that has a max transparency size greater than 8x10. Since I use the 6 frames in 6 rows sleeves for 35mm, I need 8.5x11.
 
I’m using a Canon D40 and 50/2.5 compact macro. This rig can be had quite inexpensively here in Japan. Add a light box, and a device to hold the negs and you are in business.
 
I've been using my iPhone to make "digital contact sheets" after developing, when I'm too impatient to see what I've got before I make traditional contact sheets. However, the results are okay enough with even an iPhone that I've been considering picking up a digital camera and skip the darkroom contact sheets altogether.

Can anyone recommend a ~24mp digital camera in the $200-300 range (or cheaper) that would be good for this?

Sony A5100, great dynamic range, ISO 100, 24mp, live view histogram, cheap. Got mine for under $200.
 
IMHO, 24MPx APS is the sweet spot for camera-scan. Sony A6000 might be a little above your target. Other Sony bodies might well fit. Might be hard to tell difference 16MPx vs. 24. Adapter, macro lens, rig up a back light, diffusion, and film holder.
 
Sony A5100, APS-C sensor, 24 MP, articulating screen, takes any adapted lens. Bought mine for less than $200 USD.
 
Sony A5100, great dynamic range, ISO 100, 24mp, live view histogram, cheap. Got mine for under $200.

Sony A5100, APS-C sensor, 24 MP, articulating screen, takes any adapted lens. Bought mine for less than $200 USD.

The Sony a5100 is a great suggestion. I use its predecessor, the Sony NEX-5T, and nearly all of the black and white film photos in my Flickr photostream were digitized using the NEX-5T on a Leica BEOON copy stand, with a EL-Nikkor 50/2.8 enlarging lens.

My dirty secret? I shoot JPEG. If you find my results lacking, I'm sure you could improve upon it by shooting RAW. ;)
 
My dirty secret? I shoot JPEG. If you find my results lacking, I'm sure you could improve upon it by shooting RAW. ;)

Are you scanning color neg film? Because you need RAW to then correct the light temp to get an accurate conversion when it is inverted.
NLP just requires you to use the temp dropper on an unexposed strip of the film.
I do it once per film type and save it as a preset.
 
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