bigeye
Well-known
I'd check focus if the green packing is cleaned out. There is so much slop in my Apotar's front>middle element threads without it that you can adjust focus by pressing the focus ring in different places. ugh. Hoping the check roll comes out like the above (nice!), but...
These cameras are worth the try, though. Folded, they're sleek and fit into your back pocket. There aren't too many cameras like them. Just got some more fixer, so I'm going to find out soon if it can throw a decent image.
These cameras are worth the try, though. Folded, they're sleek and fit into your back pocket. There aren't too many cameras like them. Just got some more fixer, so I'm going to find out soon if it can throw a decent image.
jnoir
Well-known
even though i also agree its nicer to have a higher spec'd camera, and generaly speaking would advise someone to get the best they can [afford] when seeking a classic folder, i think if someone has 100 folders then they would likely have some low spec'd models amongst them, I'd suggest whether you like it or not that also makes you a collector
Well, of course I do have cameras with limited features, but my point there was that folders are cameras perfectly usable, some (like Isolettes of all levels) have higher chances to require a good restoration than, say, a Super Ikonta or an Ensign. I have several Isolette IIs that have lower specs than an Isolette III, but better than any Isorette. As I am sure you know, most cameras where offered with different combinations of lenses, shutters and other features
I guess that, English not being my first language, I may have not put it clearly.When a camera is beyond repair, I kept it for pieces. But I reckon I have half a dozen cameras on display, but, personally I doubt 6 gathering dust against nearly 100 being maintained and used regularly qualifies me as collector. But if I am, then I am, for me it's not a stigma ;-)
Anyway, I don't mind if someone buys a camera for using it, for use as a paperweight or for any other reason. I only try to make clear the rationale for my opinions. When I was younger I was a "linux evangelist" and used to blame on every Windows user I came across. Nowadays I have learned and I prefer one to do whatever best suits oneself. The same goes for cameras, and cars and everything. My apologies if my comments gave the opposite impression.
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
If you have to use a lot of force, as a last resort, use small strap wrenches, the kind with the rubber strap. It can't mangle the threads and won't crack elements. Actually, I just usually set them out on the porch on a hot day and let the sun heat them up. No heat shock to break the glass and they get plenty hot enough to unscrew.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Ansco Isolettes are absolutely identical to Agfa isolettes -- same lenses, same features, all parts interchangable. I think that Ansco was just Agfa's distributor in the USA. I hear that it got them in trouble during WWII.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
so no, it would be somewhat demeaning to good ol Scovill and the Anthony brothers to say Ansco was just a distributer for Agfa
I have an Ansco Speedex Special R that had "made in Germany" embossed on the back, before I releathered it (the one in my avatar). It has Agfa lenses. It's just a rebadged Agfa Isolette III.
Incidentally, I bought one of those Anthony and Scovill cameras (a "vest pocket" model -- it's huge, so they must have had hellacious vests back then). This one is wrecked to the point that I think I am going to have to rebuild the whole thing, replacing all the wood. Since I am going to have to do that anyway, I figured I'd just convert it to 4x5. I salvaged the lens, shutter, and some hardware, took measurements, and trashed what little of the badly warped and split wood was left. Someone had covered the shutter with some kind of lumpy clear varnish or other finish too (maybe fingernail polish?).
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
Now about those B2 Speedexes, do you think they were made here or were they modified here? Seems to me it would be a lot more cost-efficient to put one of those top caps on an Isolette than it would be to build the whole thing from scratch.
jnoir
Well-known
Supposedly, IG was Swiss-based. Nevertheless, being based in Europe, in a place where one of Kodak's factory was, may allow me to throw a bit more of light to a few events, some of them mentioned by Mr. John S. Friedman.
In Spain, between 1936-1939 there was a Civil War. Spain being a Republic by then, left and right wings entangled into the war, out of which the fascist branch was declared the winner. Because of Spain still recovering from its own war, we maintained ourselves as theoretically neutral. However, as the Dictator in charge of ruling the country was sympathetic to some people like Hitler or Mussolini, it's not strange that such deals appeared (curiously, one of the managers of Kodak Italy mentioned in the document was Kodak Spain CEO's son). In fact, between 1937 and 1942, Germany made films in Spain praising their presence and (under their own point of view) invaluable help during Spanish Civil War (i.e. Heinz Paul's Kameraden auf See(1938) or Karl Ritter's In Kampf Gegen den Weltfeind (1939). Other propaganda films were also made here, remarkably Reig's España Heroica from 1937.) Censorship manuals from that time encourage censors to turn a blind eye to those films from "friendly countries" (i.e. Italy and Germany). To begin with, Spain bought no less than 70 german nazi films in 1938, and that was just the beginning, with Germany Ambassador Stoher and Foreign Office Ministry Spanish General Gomez Jordana swapping gifts and presents and signing a "cultural agreement". Between 1939 and 1941, Spain premiered 155 german films, versus 178 from the US and about 75 produced in Spain. The NO-DO (spanish national propaganda newsreel) evolved from "Actualidades Ufa", the spanish version of its german counterpart.
After the WWII, however, things changed a little here. US gave money to rebuild Europe but not Spain (the [in]famous ERP, known in here as Marshall Plan). In fact, in 1944, Gerhardt Häuser (president of the Reich's Cinematographic Chamber) appeared at NO-DO's central offices to complain about the fact that unused film was being bought from Kodak US rather than to Agfa in Germany (that was a very funny episode, worth to have been there, maybe some other day we will discuss about it). By 1943, only 10 german films were premiered in Madrid. In the end, Spain surrendered with things like Rota's navy base in the 50s (still there), and finally Spain received some help from the outside, thanks in part to things like the Kennan Brief in 1947.
Of course, there are lots more to it than that. My point here is: money rules, independently of its origins
About the actual question from FallisPhoto, my guess would be that they were made in the US, probably sharing the design and maybe some machines because of the merge. Do you think that moving several thousands of cameras from Europe to US in the 50s was cheaper or more cost efficient than having the machinery for each part?
In Spain, between 1936-1939 there was a Civil War. Spain being a Republic by then, left and right wings entangled into the war, out of which the fascist branch was declared the winner. Because of Spain still recovering from its own war, we maintained ourselves as theoretically neutral. However, as the Dictator in charge of ruling the country was sympathetic to some people like Hitler or Mussolini, it's not strange that such deals appeared (curiously, one of the managers of Kodak Italy mentioned in the document was Kodak Spain CEO's son). In fact, between 1937 and 1942, Germany made films in Spain praising their presence and (under their own point of view) invaluable help during Spanish Civil War (i.e. Heinz Paul's Kameraden auf See(1938) or Karl Ritter's In Kampf Gegen den Weltfeind (1939). Other propaganda films were also made here, remarkably Reig's España Heroica from 1937.) Censorship manuals from that time encourage censors to turn a blind eye to those films from "friendly countries" (i.e. Italy and Germany). To begin with, Spain bought no less than 70 german nazi films in 1938, and that was just the beginning, with Germany Ambassador Stoher and Foreign Office Ministry Spanish General Gomez Jordana swapping gifts and presents and signing a "cultural agreement". Between 1939 and 1941, Spain premiered 155 german films, versus 178 from the US and about 75 produced in Spain. The NO-DO (spanish national propaganda newsreel) evolved from "Actualidades Ufa", the spanish version of its german counterpart.
After the WWII, however, things changed a little here. US gave money to rebuild Europe but not Spain (the [in]famous ERP, known in here as Marshall Plan). In fact, in 1944, Gerhardt Häuser (president of the Reich's Cinematographic Chamber) appeared at NO-DO's central offices to complain about the fact that unused film was being bought from Kodak US rather than to Agfa in Germany (that was a very funny episode, worth to have been there, maybe some other day we will discuss about it). By 1943, only 10 german films were premiered in Madrid. In the end, Spain surrendered with things like Rota's navy base in the 50s (still there), and finally Spain received some help from the outside, thanks in part to things like the Kennan Brief in 1947.
Of course, there are lots more to it than that. My point here is: money rules, independently of its origins
About the actual question from FallisPhoto, my guess would be that they were made in the US, probably sharing the design and maybe some machines because of the merge. Do you think that moving several thousands of cameras from Europe to US in the 50s was cheaper or more cost efficient than having the machinery for each part?
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
Yeah, a lot of people would be shocked to find out that the same people making Bayer Aspirin were also making things like Zyclon B (the cyanide compound used in the "showers" at Auschwitz).
BTW, Ansco did get into trouble for trading with the enemy, and I believe that they did a good deal more of it than what they got caught doing.
RichL
Well-known
For you bellows hunters Goodwill on line has Speedex B2 going today (9 June)
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Vintage-Agfa-B2-Speedex-Folding-Camera-6292571.html
look around and you will also find a Isolette III a Wirgin and a Bessa (looks like it might be the Bessa I)
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Vintage-Agfa-B2-Speedex-Folding-Camera-6292571.html
look around and you will also find a Isolette III a Wirgin and a Bessa (looks like it might be the Bessa I)
Vagabond
Accomplished Malingerer
Hot Water Method
Hot Water Method
Thanks for the tip, Charlie. I used the "hot water" method on a recently purchased Ansco Speedex Special and it worked like a charm. That old grease is unbelievable. If they could get the formula they could probably stop the oil leak in the Gulf!
Bill
Hot Water Method
Thanks for the tip, Charlie. I used the "hot water" method on a recently purchased Ansco Speedex Special and it worked like a charm. That old grease is unbelievable. If they could get the formula they could probably stop the oil leak in the Gulf!
Bill
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Actually, yes. That's what pretty much everyone does now, because it does save money.
bigeye
Well-known
It won't scare other cameras with its IQ, but the little Speedex/Isolette has a nice character. Test snap of the privy:
Collimating with the SLR made a big difference in setting the focus.
- Charlie
Collimating with the SLR made a big difference in setting the focus.
- Charlie
Steve M.
Veteran
I just wanted to give a big Thank You to bigeye here for his boiling water tip. My Agfa Isolette III arrived today w/ it's focus frozen solid. In the past I've tried about everything and was never able to get these things unstuck, so I found this thread and decided to give it a try. The first problem was getting the lens assembly out of the shutter. Usually these screw out when trying to turn the lens focus, but not this one. Tried the hair dryer trick. Nada. Put a little lighter fluid and sprayed electrical cleaner in the threads to try to loosen them from the shutter tube. More nada. I finally had to resort to putting a hose clamp around the front cell and CAREFULLY tightening it down enough to get a grip. After many attempts the lens assy unscrewed. I marked the parts just in case to make sure everything went back right.
Next I heated the lens assy up w/ hot water, put it on the stove w/ more hot water and brought it to a light boil for just a few seconds. Scary business here. Pulled it out of the water w/ tongs....nothing. Re read the thread here, and saw that bigeye said to steep it for 10 minutes. Whoa! OK, here goes.
This is where I thought I'd ruined the lens. When I pulled it out after the steep, the lens was full of water! I'd seen it bubbling out air by the back element (of the front lens assy) when it was boiling and was freaked by that, but gave it the 10 minute steep anyway. Still couldn't get it unstuck. So I put the lens assy directly on the burner to try and evaporate the water out of the lens. This worked, after a while, and now I finally got the thing to unscrew. Success! I put a little mark on both parts to make sure I screwed the front part in at the same place it came out.
Figuring I'd better keep going while things were working, I got out the solvents and about 15 swabs and finally got the grease off the threads. Put a tiny amount of dry bicycle chain oil on them, and then unscrewed it and wiped it dry. Put it back together, sat the camera on a tripod and stretched a piece of magic tape across the film chamber, and w/ a loupe found infinity. Then the front part of the lens w/ the distance markings was carefully screwed on, infinity was checked again, and all the tools were put away. Thanks again bigeye and everyone else here. Looks like it's a shooter now. The bellows are those shiny ones that creak when you open the camera, and appear to be light tight, but that's probably the next project.
Next I heated the lens assy up w/ hot water, put it on the stove w/ more hot water and brought it to a light boil for just a few seconds. Scary business here. Pulled it out of the water w/ tongs....nothing. Re read the thread here, and saw that bigeye said to steep it for 10 minutes. Whoa! OK, here goes.
This is where I thought I'd ruined the lens. When I pulled it out after the steep, the lens was full of water! I'd seen it bubbling out air by the back element (of the front lens assy) when it was boiling and was freaked by that, but gave it the 10 minute steep anyway. Still couldn't get it unstuck. So I put the lens assy directly on the burner to try and evaporate the water out of the lens. This worked, after a while, and now I finally got the thing to unscrew. Success! I put a little mark on both parts to make sure I screwed the front part in at the same place it came out.
Figuring I'd better keep going while things were working, I got out the solvents and about 15 swabs and finally got the grease off the threads. Put a tiny amount of dry bicycle chain oil on them, and then unscrewed it and wiped it dry. Put it back together, sat the camera on a tripod and stretched a piece of magic tape across the film chamber, and w/ a loupe found infinity. Then the front part of the lens w/ the distance markings was carefully screwed on, infinity was checked again, and all the tools were put away. Thanks again bigeye and everyone else here. Looks like it's a shooter now. The bellows are those shiny ones that creak when you open the camera, and appear to be light tight, but that's probably the next project.
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bigeye
Well-known
It sounds like yours was welded quite a bit more than average. Glad it worked out.
I did have a bit of water or condensation between elements after steeping, but once removed they were opened could be dried - it needed cleaning, anyway. I did not boil it, just steeped it like tea in a cup and it unscrewed easily.
The bellows is also very easy to replace. It will take 10 min if you watch the youtube video and get your head around the process. I have an Ikonta B that needs it done and it looks more difficult.
-Charlie
I did have a bit of water or condensation between elements after steeping, but once removed they were opened could be dried - it needed cleaning, anyway. I did not boil it, just steeped it like tea in a cup and it unscrewed easily.
The bellows is also very easy to replace. It will take 10 min if you watch the youtube video and get your head around the process. I have an Ikonta B that needs it done and it looks more difficult.
-Charlie
Steve M.
Veteran
Yep, mine was really glued on there. The surprising thing is that there was actually little green stuff to clean off the threads. Maybe the boiling took care of some of it. This morning I pulled the top off the camera and freed up the rangefinder adjustment wheel w/ a little lighter fluid, followed by my dry bike chain oil. Spins super freely now. I really like this dry bike oil. It's been used in shutters too and they are still working fine after 1 year. Great for freeing up those Graflex Supermatics that you need gloves to turn. You just need a little drop, and it dries up and doesn't migrate to places it shouldn't..
I have two donor Isolettes when it's time to change out the bellows. You're right, the Ikontas are not that easy to replace bellows on.
I have two donor Isolettes when it's time to change out the bellows. You're right, the Ikontas are not that easy to replace bellows on.