AGFA Isolette III Solinar v. Apotar

[tron]

Yoikes! for that many coins, I hope it's as near perfection as is imaginable.

I do prefer the look of the four element Tessar types, but I've always gotten very good results (even wide open) from the "cheap" triplets. Give a lens a fair workout before worrying about what someone else tells you. If you decide you don't like the look from that old Isolette III, just let me know and we'll work something out... 😉

One film that I have found to bring out all the flair (not flare 🙂 ) of an old folder lens is Fuji Reala CS. Be sure to try a roll or two in that Bessa once you get it. Some of my favorite shots were done with an Iskra & a Moskva 5 on Reala.

Good luck and good light!

William

William, are you suggesting me to sell you the Isolette III ? Kind of premature cos' I have yet to lay hands on it and the Bessa. Anyway, thanks for your offer if that's the case. I think I can have confidence on this dealer based on past experience dealing with him. That's actually why I was willing to pay more than usual. Where I am from, it will be a pain in the neck to repair a folder. Someday, I may have to rely on your guys to help me find some expert craftsmen to handle maintenance. 😎

 

[tron]

I think I know the one you got - comes from Holland or something, right? If it's the one I'm thinking of - you got a good camera - that person is a very reputable dealer in old cameras. I never buy anything from him - he's waaaaay overpriced, but from what I hear he deals in high quality items.
I just sold mine - which is just like that, but later (latest) model, for a bit less than that, and mine was in perfect condition, CLA'd , and tested - well, - you saw the pictures. So, If it's the one I think it is - you will get a very nice camera. And if you did overpay a little - you'll have a peice of mind that you got a quality item. Sometimes it's much better than buying one blindfolded.
So, in any respect - congrats!!!!!!!!!!! Just take your time with it , when you get it, learn to handhold it to get good results. Lefthanded operation takes some getting use to. Actually I find it comfortable now that I used it for a while. And DO run some B&W film through it - thats where you get the best tonality and feel with Skopar. But as you have seen in my pictures - it does well with colour film as well. Can't wait to hear your impressions and see your pictures here, so please post them.
Enjoy.
George

George, you see, I said there's an abundance of experts here. You can even tell where I bought my camera with so little information. Yes, I bought it from Peter of the Netherlands. I have previously dealt with him before. You hit the spot when you said his stuff are pricey, but of good quality. I have learnt to know that buying from a good quality seller is of utmost importance, especially this guy seems to be willing to offer after sales advice. There are loads of torn and worn folders available at peanuts, but I have no use with them.

I also intend to use these old timer for shooting B/W. While I am not into developing (because of safety considerations - I have a little girl at home who will lay hands on almost anything at home she knows of). Having said that, I know some well qualified developers who will do a good job.

Be patient when I trouble you guys about how to get the most out of my newly acquired treasure. 😛

 

[tron]

George's methodology is right on the mark.

A little addition to George's comments on usage - On the Compur Rapid and Synchro-Compur shutters there is a secondary internal spring for its fastest shutter speed.

When arming/cocking the shutter while it is set to its fastest shutter speed - the cocking action should feel stiff when compared to arming the shutter at the slower shutter speeds.

Therefore, with regards to setting the fastest shutters speed, always change the shutter speed ring into or out of the Compur's highest shutter speed BEFORE manually cocking the shutter.

Congratulations and enjoy. In addition to B/W negs, you'll be floored the first time you receive back of a roll of E-6 Provia or Velvia.

Andrew, thanks for the tip. I read this from the website of another seller in Germany. My understanding of his word of caution is that you should cock the shutter before switching to the desired high speed, right ?

 

[Solinar]

You may have it backwards. You should adjust the shutter speed, first ---> then you cock the shutter.

A brief final note, because I'm at work, - 6x9 folders really did rejuvenate my interest in photography. 8 exposures to a roll meant same day development. Also, it was the push that I needed to build another darkroom.

 

[Laurence]

Andrew, I can only concur with the "knock me to the floor" feeling when seeing those 6x6 transparencies on the light board from my Isolette III. Wow, wow, wow. Screamingingly sharp, edge to edge.

 

[ZeissFan]

The Apotar is a very decent lens. I've almost always gotten very nice shots with the Apotar, although the top speed of the Prontor can be somewhat limiting.

Not all triplets are created equal, and some are very good while others are merely adequate. For the most part, I think you'll find that a triplet will give you the best corner-to-corner sharpness when closed down to f/8 or smaller.

 

[wlewisiii]

William, are you suggesting me to sell you the Isolette III ? Kind of premature

Just trying to say that if, after giving it a go you decide that you don't like it, then keep me in mind. Thing is, I doubt that will happen - it's a very nice camera that I have little doubt you'll enjoy tremendously.

William

 

[tron]

You may have it backwards. You should adjust the shutter speed, first ---> then you cock the shutter.

A brief final note, because I'm at work, - 6x9 folders really did rejuvenate my interest in photography. 8 exposures to a roll meant same day development. Also, it was the push that I needed to build another darkroom.

Yeah, right, brain thinking one thing and fingers typing another 😛 .

Envy your darkroom.

 

[tron]

Just trying to say that if, after giving it a go you decide that you don't like it, then keep me in mind. Thing is, I doubt that will happen - it's a very nice camera that I have little doubt you'll enjoy tremendously.

William

Dear William,

I cannot answer your question right now but I do hope we will not be doing business 😛 , you know what I mean.

I am not sure whether this is appropriate in the forum but given your liking about the Isolette III, you may find this useful :-

http://cgi.ebay.com/SUPERB-Agfa-Iso...hZ017QQcategoryZ30099QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

This one seems evern greater than the one I bought because it has a Compur rapid shutter with 1/500 seconds. Mine has only 1/300. Would have gone for this one should it come up earlier :bang: .

 

[tron]

Ho, guys. My Isolette III and Bessa arrived yesterday.

I have yet to shoot any pictures but checking and dry drilling the cosmetics and mechanism for an afternoon, the two little monsters seem to be most healthy.

Two questions I have, there is a red and yellow dot on the lens, next to the aperture ring, what's that for ?

Apart from peeking into the red holes, how do I know I have rolled enough for the next frame ?

Thanks.

 

[P C Headland]

Ho, guys. My Isolette III and Bessa arrived yesterday.

Two questions I have, there is a red and yellow dot on the lens, next to the aperture ring, what's that for ?

I'm not certain with your camera, but often you'll find if you align the red dot on the focus and aperture scales, that is a "snap shot" setting, for quick-fire shooting with no worrying about focus. Just set the shutter speed to 1/film speed and you'll be right for many outdoor situations.

Apart from peeking into the red holes, how do I know I have rolled enough for the next frame ?

Thanks.

Look in the red windows and watch the numbers go by. Each film manufacturer has a different "warning scheme", but usually there are a series of dots/squares/something that appear just before the frame number. If you have a junk roll of 120 (or just the backing paper), you can unroll it a bit and see the 3 sets of number (6x4.5, 6x6 and 6x9). Some manufacturers markings are easier to see than others.

 

[tron]

I'm not certain with your camera, but often you'll find if you align the red dot on the focus and aperture scales, that is a "snap shot" setting, for quick-fire shooting with no worrying about focus. Just set the shutter speed to 1/film speed and you'll be right for many outdoor situations.




Look in the red windows and watch the numbers go by. Each film manufacturer has a different "warning scheme", but usually there are a series of dots/squares/something that appear just before the frame number. If you have a junk roll of 120 (or just the backing paper), you can unroll it a bit and see the 3 sets of number (6x4.5, 6x6 and 6x9). Some manufacturers markings are easier to see than others.

Thanks for the help !

 

[tron]

My friends, how do you find the adapter for mounting tripod ? The Bessa and the Isolette have old style tripod mounts and my tripod or quick release plates do not fit.

If I were to find it online, what is the keyword formy search ?

Thanks.

 

[Krosya]

My friends, how do you find the adapter for mounting tripod ? The Bessa and the Isolette have old style tripod mounts and my tripod or quick release plates do not fit.

If I were to find it online, what is the keyword formy search ?

Thanks.

If you are talking about a larger hole ones that need a smaller size - you can pick them up at any Pro camera shop for about a $1-2. I got mine 2 for $1.99 at a local shop here. It just screws inside and you can use your "normal" size tripod plate.
George

 

[Laurence]

My friends, how do you find the adapter for mounting tripod ? The Bessa and the Isolette have old style tripod mounts and my tripod or quick release plates do not fit.

If I were to find it online, what is the keyword formy search ?

Thanks.

Whoa, interesting! My Isolette III has the smaller "normal" (1/4 inch?) mount that fits my current-model tripods. They must have switched them somewhere during the production years....

This Isolette III has turned itself into my hiking camera...what a SMALL and ROBUST piece of gear for the backpack. The transparencies are GREAT (not to beat a dead horse, since I keep repeating this -- or wait....maybe I AM beating a dead horse, but I can't emphasize it enough).

 

[Solinar]

Think of a 6x6 in Velvia or Provia frame as a 25 megapixel image when scanned at 2400 dpi.

 

[Laurence]

Think of a 6x6 in Velvia or Provia frame as a 25 megapixel image when scanned at 2400 dpi.

I see....(!!!). Wow, I am rather new to this, but certainly learning fast...

So...doesn't this effectively give the scanned 6x6 trannie, at 25 megapixels, the POTENTIAL of making a better enlargement than say, a Canon 1DsMII Single Lens Reflex image at somwhere around 16 megapixels?

All things being equal of course, in that the scanner is really picking up the detail as well as the sensor in a Canon would, and any other parameters being more or less the same?

Or....am I barking up the wrong tree here?

 

[Wimpler]

I think the quality of a 6x6 slide could indeed be greater than the quality of a digital file from a high quality digital camera, in optimal conditions. Printing images in the darkroom is probably better than scanning and printing...

 

[tron]

I have come to find out that what I need is called a bushing. While I now have no problem finding and ordering them online, I really have to thank this seller from Holland - the one I have bought my folders. I was asking him the proper name of what I need and you know what, he undertook to mail me a couple for free. He insisted on not taking money from me for the bushings and he even paid for the shipping costs. And this was after I have settled the transaction and given him my comment as a buyer !

A really respectable seller this is !

 

[FallisPhoto]

There is a difference -- not much of a difference, unless you are shooting wide open, but a difference. You'd pay a lot more for just a little improvement if you got a Solinar.