Agfa Isolette sticky focus

[snapper78]

I have an Agfa Isolette that I intend to sell. It seems to be in pretty good condition except that the focus is extremely stiff, which I gather is a common problem with these cameras. I read on line that it's an easy one to fix, and I suspect that a tiny drop of lighter fluid would loosen the old lubricant. Is this correct or would the old lubricant get into places where it shouldn't and cause damage?

 

[Pioneer]

I don't believe that lighter fluid will have any effect on that green cement that is now left over. The only thing I have ever had any success with is to disassemble the lens, soak it in lighter fluid, and then pick the old green grease out of the helical with a toothpick. Finally, relube, reassemble and recollimate. They are relatively simple cameras so they are not too intimidating to work on.

Do a google search for Agfa focus repair and something should pop up. There is probably even something right here on this forum in the classic camera repair section.

 

[snapper78]

Thanks. I did find quite a lot of useful information. I'm not sure I'd risk disassembling the lens, though, not to mention reassembling and collimating. Perhaps best to leave that for the buyer if there is one. I also have a less handsome one, though. that I might be prepared to risk it on. Those set screws on the ring are very small.

 

[farlymac]

Alcohol is a better solvent for the Bayer grease in Agfa cameras. Never take the set screws out, just back them off enough to get the focus ring off. It may take some heat to get the lens elements out of the mount.

Sometimes, the second element comes out with the first one, then you just soak the two in alcohol for about a week. They should separate fairly easily after that.

It doesn't matter what cut you start the second element in, as it just bottoms in the mount. But you will have to figure out which cut is best for the first element. This is done with the ground glass in the film plane method, which you can find explained many times all over the place (even here on RFf).

The rear (third) element doesn't necessarily have to come out, but it might need a good cleaning. A spanner is required for this. Just make sure you put it back in properly, or you may get some interesting results on the first roll.

While you have the lens elements out, it would be a good time to clean the shutter escapement, and self timer if it has one. Also check the blades of the shutter and diaphragm (aperture) to be sure they are clean and dry.

PF

 

[Steve M.]

You might want to check if the focus is really stiff, or if the outer chrome part w/ the set screws is simply turning on the lens. That's usually the case. I really can't add anything to the excellent advice others have given you here. There is, unfortunately, no quick and easy fix on this problem. Great cameras except for the frozen focus issue and the bellows, which are full of pinholes 9 out of 10 times. Get those things sorted out and they're some of my favorite folders. The Ikontas, on the other hand, can usually be found at the same price as the Agfas and have much better bellows and none of the frozen lens issues. I wish I had never sold my 520/16 Zeiss Ikonta w/ a Tessar in a Compur Rapid shutter. That was a great little shooter.

 

[mikemc_photo]

Age will turn the lube into green cement..I must agree a quick dissassembly, clean and relube is the only way to do this. Oxidation and heat damage have ruined the original, a drop of solvent will not get to all parts of the helical, so you put more in and then things can start moving....sometimes right into the shutter blades.

If you want to fix it...Do it correctly and it will last

 

[snapper78]

Thanks all

Very useful information. I have managed to free up the focusing to a point where i will probably take the camera out for a shoot and, depending on the results, may decide to keep it and go ahead with the complete disassembly. Otherwise I'll probably post it on the well known auction site at 99p and see how it goes. The bellows look lovely to the unskilled eye and the case is much better than the cases that usually come with old folders. It's probably spent most of its life in a cupboard or a drawer.

 

[rick oleson]

If you have it free enough to focus it, I would unscrew the front cell and clean and relube it. The grease will harden up again if you leave it in there, and it just gets more difficult over time. Xylene will work faster, but if it's still soft enough to be able to focus it, you can probably clean it with lighter fluid. I use white lithium grease to relube helicals, some people prefer silicone grease.

 

[snapper78]

I shot a roll of Fuji Neopan today - an interesting experience since it must be at least thirty years since I last loaded a 120 film and probably just as long since I took a picture with a folder. I'll send the film off to be developed, probably develop only but maybe develop and scan and should be able to tell if it's worth proceeding or whether the camera should be let loose to be tinkered with by someone more skilled than I am. I have looked at the less good looking Isolette given to me by a friend, which has a home-made bellows of his own devising and it seems that I haven't got a screwdriver small enough to get into the set screws in the ring. I read on the web that a filed down Exacto blade will do the trick and I probably have one of them somewhere or could easily buy one. Is this a good idea, or would it be better to file down my smallest screwdriver? I can see that fooling around with folders could be fun and I have a Zeiss Nettar and Ensign Ranger lined up for investigation

 

[farlymac]

A decent set of small screwdrivers is not expensive, and should be readily available.

PF