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Any of you that use anamorphic lenses for stills? Just startet to look into it, and it seems kind of cool. Does any you have experice with it? What are the pro and cons? Do you have example images?
I've seen someone using the 33mm Blazer Remus (1.5x anamorphic) on a PL to M-mount adapter on a Leica M11. Not sure what software they were using for desqueeze, and I never saw any photos produced using that setup, just photos of the gear.Any of you that use anamorphic lenses for stills? Just startet to look into it, and it seems kind of cool. Does any you have experice with it? What are the pro and cons? Do you have example images?
Some cameras also offer 2:1, 21:9 or 65:24 crop as well. The post edit overhead for an anamorphic stills might have a fairly simple solution. I have read if you convert the raw to DNG you can then use exif tool to change one field and programs like lightroom will handle the desqueeze. Also wondering if a lens profile could be made to desqueeze. They exist to defish, so maybe?Yes, they use the whole "negative" whether it is analog(ue) or digital. But they have to be decoded to get the "squish" out. The other, more practical, option is the 16x9 format offered in some cameras as a built-in crop. This eliminates the expensive anamorphic lens purchase and all that nasty decoding of the shot after.
There are some inexpensive Sony mounts at B&H but there is that post edit overhead that must be dealt with. So my question is the lens expense and post edit effort worth not using what is available as a crop in some cameras?
FWIW I am shooting 16x9 when offered in a camera I have. And it is, of course, cropped to that.
Some cameras also offer 2:1, 21:9 or 65:24 crop as well. The post edit overhead for an anamorphic stills might have a fairly simple solution. I have read if you convert the raw to DNG you can then use exif tool to change one field and programs like lightroom will handle the desqueeze. Also wondering if a lens profile could be made to desqueeze. They exist to defish, so maybe?
I am going to be trying out a Sirui 35mm anamorphic lens, mainly for video but I will also try stills with it. And compared the 35mm anamorphic vs the rough equivalent through one of the crop modes. The anamorphic will of course be higher resolution but there will be differences in DOF and the look of the out of focus area too along with flare and sharpness of the anamorphic lens.
Here is a sample video of someone shooting stills with the anamorphic.
Just tried the exiftool command and lightroom did apply the horizontal scale which should desquish an anamorphic photo. The resulting imported photo in Lightoom had a 2.4:1 ratio which is what it should have given a 3:2 image with a 1.6x Anamorphic lens. I tested on a regular image and the resulting file was stretched horizontally.Now anamorphic lenses require sacrifice. You either have to play with the de-squishers or lose the top and bottom of your sensor in a crop. There are a few film Xpans around but rare, expensive and expensive to maintain. It is a pay-to-play deal, de-squishers and squishers or able cameras. Money either way. If the Panomicron can work well without damaging images it is a good option. I sure will follow within interest and Panomicron experimentation. It looks exciting.
...am I being an idiot and misunderstanding something, because it seems like something that should be relatively easy to do in Photoshop (or GIMP, or something similar)?
Taking one of @Rust's images, it's relatively simple to use the image size tool (Cmd+Alt+I) to re-squeeze it back down to 4:6 by just decoupling the width and height dimensions and changing just the width, like so:
View attachment 4855390
If I'm understanding this correctly, there's no reason you couldn't do exactly the same thing in reverse to get to the intended final dimensions; all you'd need to know is the final width of the "de-squished" version of the image (obtained in this case by multiplying your starting width by 1.5058823529, apparently).
Not being an idiot. Photoshop (or similar) is a typical way to desqueeze and setting up an action can make it a fairly quick process....am I being an idiot and misunderstanding something, because it seems like something that should be relatively easy to do in Photoshop (or GIMP, or something similar)?