SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Well... after pelting poor William (wwlewisiii) with e-mails and consulting things with Oscar (taffer) and lots of forums and resources in the web... I finally souped my own!
8 minutes in D-76 stock, then stop bath (the Kodak indicator kind), fixed it for 7 minutes (just in case), washed for 25 and thrown in some Photo-flo solution for 1 minute, gave me some gorgeous negatives in Ilford FP4.
Why didn't I pick a Kodak film if I'm using only Kodak chemistry?
Just because I'm not crazy about T-Max. And I tried the Ilford once, found it has a really nice contrast and very fine grain, so I'll stick to this one for now.
The negs are hanging in a safe place right now... As soon as they become scannable I'll pass them around.
Thanks for bearing with me!
8 minutes in D-76 stock, then stop bath (the Kodak indicator kind), fixed it for 7 minutes (just in case), washed for 25 and thrown in some Photo-flo solution for 1 minute, gave me some gorgeous negatives in Ilford FP4.
Why didn't I pick a Kodak film if I'm using only Kodak chemistry?
Just because I'm not crazy about T-Max. And I tried the Ilford once, found it has a really nice contrast and very fine grain, so I'll stick to this one for now.
The negs are hanging in a safe place right now... As soon as they become scannable I'll pass them around.
Thanks for bearing with me!
dll927
Well-known
Are you saying this is your first time doing your own???? Mine was in the first half of the '50's when I was in high school.
To be right honest about it, I haven't done any developing and printing in years, although I still have my enlarger. Guess it's like everybody else - there isn't enough time in the day any more!! And I'm retired yet!! And I never even tried to get into color work. Keep that 'soup' flowing.
To be right honest about it, I haven't done any developing and printing in years, although I still have my enlarger. Guess it's like everybody else - there isn't enough time in the day any more!! And I'm retired yet!! And I never even tried to get into color work. Keep that 'soup' flowing.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I will keep that soup flowing... believe me, it's Independence Day here.
Or at least, it feels good.
Next task: master the sunny 16 rule.
Or at least, it feels good.
Next task: master the sunny 16 rule.
Jon Perry
Established
Isn't it just magical, as you pull the film from the tank for the very first time and see those first glimpses of your images in negative?
hmmm ... film!
Makes me all warm and fuzzy just thinking about it! :angel:
Jon
hmmm ... film!
Makes me all warm and fuzzy just thinking about it!
:angel:Jon
back alley
IMAGES
congrats francisco!
i am so behind in my processing..
you can skip the stop bath and just rinse in water. and if you use something like orbit, the wash times are minimal.
i am so behind in my processing..
you can skip the stop bath and just rinse in water. and if you use something like orbit, the wash times are minimal.
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SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Orbit? Is that a fixer, developer, stop? The wash time is, with this soup, quite long so whatever makes it shorter will be welcome.
Gotta check on the negs!
Gotta check on the negs!
back alley
IMAGES
sorry, 'orbit' is a 'wash aid', it speeds the wash process significantly, like down to 5 minutes or so. it is a 'hypo clearing agent'
sherm
Well-known
Francisco:
I too had my first experience with "souping" last week and it's a heck of a lot of fun.
Congrats on your first go, if you're like me it won't be your last.
BTW as an Ausitnite please let me know when you visit Solinar next time so I could meet another RFFer.
Scott
I too had my first experience with "souping" last week and it's a heck of a lot of fun.
Congrats on your first go, if you're like me it won't be your last.
BTW as an Ausitnite please let me know when you visit Solinar next time so I could meet another RFFer.
Scott
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Can you combine it with Photo-flo, joe or does Orbit replace the Kodak product?
Sherm, I do hope to make it to Austin again... I just don't know when, but I'll keep you posted!
Thanks, Perry! It feels good to be relatively independent...
In the meanwhile, here we go with the "fun guys"! (bad pun, see attachment)
Sherm, I do hope to make it to Austin again... I just don't know when, but I'll keep you posted!
Thanks, Perry! It feels good to be relatively independent...
In the meanwhile, here we go with the "fun guys"! (bad pun, see attachment)
Attachments
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back alley
IMAGES
photo flo is a wetting agent, it is the very last thing you treat the film with, in hopes of it drying without spots. it treats the surface tension of the film.
orbit is used right after the fix, soak the film in it for about a minute or so, then wash the film, then the photo flo.
orbit is used right after the fix, soak the film in it for about a minute or so, then wash the film, then the photo flo.
Congratulation Francisco, well done.
You have been talking about this for years!!! I am glad you finally are getting your feet wet, so to say.
It is fun, and easy. Once you get into a rhythm you won't stop.
You have been talking about this for years!!! I am glad you finally are getting your feet wet, so to say.
It is fun, and easy. Once you get into a rhythm you won't stop.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
V
varjag
Guest
For development times more than 5 min you can skip stop bath altogether. Most modern fixers are acidic, with same effect as stop bath, but even with non acidic fixer it wouldn't be a problem.
Oh, and you shouldn't overfix, after a while it starts eating out image-forming silver.
Oh, and you shouldn't overfix, after a while it starts eating out image-forming silver.
markinlondon
Elmar user
back alley said:
"In hopes" is about right, Joe
. Well done, Francisco and congratulations on your extreme good taste in choice of film and developer. FP4 in ID-11/D76 IS black and white photography in my book. I use 8 mins in stock for EI125.
Mark
oscroft
Veteran
I've only recently returned to developing B&W after a long gap, and I've started using Ilford's Delta films, which I like a lot. But I do agree that there is something special about FP4, and I think I'll be using it until either it expires or I do.
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
You did better than I did with my first round.
Nachkebia
Well-known
FP4 is supposed to be traditional film right? I mean it has traditional grain structure like tri-x and delta is modern film like t-max, if I am not mistaken..
markinlondon
Elmar user
Spot on. I prefer the tonality of FP4, not to mention its resilience in processing. But Delta 100 is nice too. They both look good in stock ID-11/D76, Delta is maybe a little finer grained and has a touch more overall contrast.Nachkebia said:
OT: 500 POSTS!
Mark
Nachkebia
Well-known
I find delta to be softer in tonaliys, gives kind of softie look, when FP4 is more edgy and rough, I think once you try both you will know when to use which, I use delta for portraits and I love it, for street I would use FP4 but again I am talking everything in india
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Let's see what the future brings in, but for now, after trying this one, I'll see what else to work on. Besides, I'll look for any hypo-clearing agent I can grab and shorten the fixing one minute. Right now, I only have one film to develop (another roll of FP4). I didn't want to soup both just in case something went awry the first time. This second roll has some nice pics of an event in campus and it'd really hurt if I didn't do it right.
Hence... I'm in the lookout for HCA and more stuff to shoot!
BTW, I have a dozen rolls of FP4 coming from Freestyle...
Hence... I'm in the lookout for HCA and more stuff to shoot!
BTW, I have a dozen rolls of FP4 coming from Freestyle...