MichaelToye
Well-known
Especially with Monochrom files where a single image wide process is not optimal, I use layer masks. It's not cheating, it just allows me to process sky separately from concrete or people.
Click through to my blog to view the article.
Thanks, Michael.
Click through to my blog to view the article.
Thanks, Michael.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
You are better off using Curves Adjustment Layers, masked to select only the area you are editing. Your method is copying the whole image into each layer, which makes file sizes very large. Here is how to do it:
http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/dodge-burn.php
http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/dodge-burn.php
MichaelToye
Well-known
Thanks Chris, but my generated layers are often not the simple output of a curve layer.
I generate layers with filter packs too. Also, when I need to improve clarity/structure, this can't be achieved with a curve layer.
Michael
I generate layers with filter packs too. Also, when I need to improve clarity/structure, this can't be achieved with a curve layer.
Michael
Tom Niblick
Well-known
I have to agree with Chris, masking and working with curves is also my preferred way to go for most tonal edits.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
One way does not exclude the other. If you want to do more than just curves you will need a full image layer mask, and sometimes even more File size is not a problem if you use a halfway decent computer.
jcrutcher
Veteran
Thank you Michael!
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Thanks Chris, but my generated layers are often not the simple output of a curve layer.
I generate layers with filter packs too. Also, when I need to improve clarity/structure, this can't be achieved with a curve layer.
Michael
I wish Adobe would add the ability to do Sharpening adjustment layers, it would eliminate the need for the image based layers you use, and would allow you to change them later if you choose. Oh well, since they haven't yet, I understand why you're doing it your way.
kzphoto
Well-known
Man, I thought there was a way to turn a layer into a smart object to run filters on it?
IIRC -- you convert the layer to a smart object, run the filter and then save your change. If you need to go back and adjust the filter, you right click on the layer, hit "edit contents" and then scroll through the layer pane to adjust that particular layer. Works in my version of CS6.
IIRC -- you convert the layer to a smart object, run the filter and then save your change. If you need to go back and adjust the filter, you right click on the layer, hit "edit contents" and then scroll through the layer pane to adjust that particular layer. Works in my version of CS6.
Rangefinderfreak
Well-known
It`s all about TASTE, what to do and what not to touch... I prefer a "film look", M8 files with some adjusting of curves, is all I need for Digital B&W. With analog, I prefer wet printing and then scanning the print on a flatbed and then finalizing the image in computer, retouching, all the small details etc.
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