optikhit
Photo gear player
Hi friends. Recently I got a Hapo 66E with Enna Haponar 75/4.5 lens. A real nice little camera. However, the picture I got have bright lines on the upper boundaries (see the photo). I don't know if there are light leak on the bellows or some other problems. Please help me to identify this problem. Thanks in advance.
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Windscale
Well-known
It may be that your film pressure plate is not sticking up enough to push your film firmly onto the frame thereby enabling light to get through. I don't have a Hapo 66E but you can take the pressure plate out and squeeze the supporting metal clips under the pressure plate out a bit so that the pressure plate rises up a little thus pressing the film stronger onto the frame.
But in doing this exercise you may need to adjust the infinity distance as you may have moved the lens to film distance. In any event, with old folders you will need to check this from time to time.
Hope this helps.
But in doing this exercise you may need to adjust the infinity distance as you may have moved the lens to film distance. In any event, with old folders you will need to check this from time to time.
Hope this helps.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
They appear to be next to the bright sky area. My guess is that it's light reflected off a moderately shiny surface area inside the camera, such as the metal around the film aperture immediately in front of the film. First check if that is not properly blackened, then shoot a few pictures with the camera on its side and upside down. See if you get the same result in the same places. Sometimes just reblackening metal with a black marker or Sharpie is enough to kill reflections.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Hi friends. Recently I got a Hapo 66E with Enna Haponar 75/4.5 lens. A real nice little camera. However, the picture I got have bright lines on the upper boundaries (see the photo). I don't know if there are light leak on the bellows or some other problems. Please help me to identify this problem. Thanks in advance.
If you are talking about that mottled section in the sky along the top of the photo, it looks like an artifact from a film-developing machine to me. I'm not sure what to make of the faint lines that go all the way around the photo, right at the edge, though.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
I've seen lines like that around my mf negatives a number of times. No idea what causes them, I just crop inside.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I've seen lines like that around my mf negatives a number of times. No idea what causes them, I just crop inside.
Maybe some sort of reflection from the edge of the front lens elements?
Svitantti
Well-known
I think Windscale and Al are close to truth... But it is hard to tell what really is the case.
Lens reflection probably wouldn't be square and developing machine would probably make a single straight fault.
Lens reflection probably wouldn't be square and developing machine would probably make a single straight fault.
optikhit
Photo gear player
Thanks a lot, friends. The faint bright lines appeared in nearly every photo, in both color and B/W films. Personally I think Windscale and AI maybe right, but need I check. I have encountered the light leak in my Iskra, however the appearance is unlike, unless the light leak happens at the bottom of the bellows, near to the film.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I think Windscale and Al are close to truth... But it is hard to tell what really is the case.
Lens reflection probably wouldn't be square and developing machine would probably make a single straight fault.
Think of a dirty pinch roller in a developing machine. It could make a mottled design like that. It is pretty easy to test that. If it is something wrong with the camera, the problem will recurr, no matter where he takes the film. If it is something wrong with the developing machine, and the guy takes the film somewhere else, it won't recurr.
Now about those faint lines around the edge: If those are not a reflection from a lens edge, how about reflections from the edge of the film mask?
optikhit
Photo gear player
It is ture! The bright lines come from the shining of the film mask. I taped it with non-reflecting black paper. I will see the effect when I take another roll of film.
Thanks.
Thanks.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
It is ture! The bright lines come from the shining of the film mask. I taped it with non-reflecting black paper. I will see the effect when I take another roll of film.
Thanks.
Then your camera probably needs to be reflocked. Go to a hardware store and get either some flat black "stove paint" or some Krylon "Ultra-flat black." That will probably do a better job than the paper. Apply with a brush and just on the edges of the mask.
optikhit
Photo gear player
Then your camera probably needs to be reflocked. Go to a hardware store and get either some flat black "stove paint" or some Krylon "Ultra-flat black." That will probably do a better job than the paper. Apply with a brush and just on the edges of the mask.
Yeah, you are right. The results of my treatment demonstrate that. The faint bright lines disappeared, however, the material was not adhered tightly, sometimes it will exyrude into the photo frame.
The material I used is not PAPER, I hardly put it in English. People use it in the inner part of a camera for the anti-reflection. Perhaps I did not understand your instruction. Do you mean some back oil paint? Where can I buy it (what sort of store)? Thanks a lot.
Attachments
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Yeah, you are right. The results of my treatment demonstrate that. The faint bright lines disappeared, however, the material was not adhered tightly, sometimes it will exyrude into the photo frame.
The material I used is not PAPER, I hardly put it in English. People use it in the inner part of a camera for the anti-reflection. Perhaps I did not understand your instruction. Do you mean some back oil paint? Where can I buy it (what sort of store)? Thanks a lot.
The type of paint I am writing about is called "stove paint" in the USA. It is sold in hardware stores and is used to paint wood-burning stoves. It is black, very flat, is very durable, and doesn't need to be heat-cured.
Next best is a brand of paint called Krylon. It comes in a spray can and will need to be sprayed into a container so you can apply it with a brush. The particular kind of Krylon paint you want to get is called "Ultra Flat Black."
Both of those types of paint are frequently used for flocking cameras and either will do a good job.
puderse
Established
Flat black
Flat black
I burn wood. Stove paint is for stoves!
Go where they sell model building supplies (Hobby Lobby etc.) and get a small bottle of military flat black paint. About a dollar in a very small jar (less than an oz.). Mine has lasted years, get a tiny brush, oil base, sticks well to camera parts, apply to any non-matt black camera insides, clean-up w/lighter fluid.
Change processers or do it yourself. The mottled sky doesn't look like a light leak.
SID
Flat black
I burn wood. Stove paint is for stoves!
Go where they sell model building supplies (Hobby Lobby etc.) and get a small bottle of military flat black paint. About a dollar in a very small jar (less than an oz.). Mine has lasted years, get a tiny brush, oil base, sticks well to camera parts, apply to any non-matt black camera insides, clean-up w/lighter fluid.
Change processers or do it yourself. The mottled sky doesn't look like a light leak.
SID
optikhit
Photo gear player
Hi, Fallis and Puderse and other friends. Yes, I have asked some sellers in China. They do have some kind of paint that can anti-reflect the light. They are used in models and sold in Model Shop, not in the brand of Krylon but some sort of Japanese. Is that what you mean?
Thanks a lot. Before apply the paint, I have tried to make the plate to press the film more stronger using sponge. If it does not work or make the film scratched. I will buy it.
Thanks a lot. Before apply the paint, I have tried to make the plate to press the film more stronger using sponge. If it does not work or make the film scratched. I will buy it.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I burn wood. Stove paint is for stoves!
Go where they sell model building supplies (Hobby Lobby etc.) and get a small bottle of military flat black paint. About a dollar in a very small jar (less than an oz.). Mine has lasted years, get a tiny brush, oil base, sticks well to camera parts, apply to any non-matt black camera insides, clean-up w/lighter fluid.
Change processers or do it yourself. The mottled sky doesn't look like a light leak.
SID
The problem with oil based enamels is that they have to either be heat cured (baked) or allowed to dry for about a year before they reach full hardness. Until then, a small child can scratch it off with a fingernail. Stove paint doesn't have to be heat cured and will stick to metal that hasn't been primed.
optikhit
Photo gear player
The problem with oil based enamels is that they have to either be heat cured (baked) or allowed to dry for about a year before they reach full hardness. Until then, a small child can scratch it off with a fingernail. Stove paint doesn't have to be heat cured and will stick to metal that hasn't been primed.
Hi freinds. I have painted the frame and the problems of reflection is GONE now. Thanks a lot.
charjohncarter
Veteran
optikhit
Photo gear player
I know nothing about what is casuing your problem, but I have the same camera. This is a very similar shot, and I have a little of what you have:
Hi, from the photo I can see that you DO have the same problem with the Hapo 66E. There are direct lines near the boundaries of the frame, caused be the reflections by the frames at imaging plane.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Hi freinds. I have painted the frame and the problems of reflection is GONE now. Thanks a lot.
You're welcome. There really just wasn't much else that could be causing that.
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