dave61
Established
Well....have to confess I've never had a Super Ikonta and a Mamiya-Six in front of me at same time to compare. I can't/won't pay USD~$500-600+/- for a Super Ikonta or USD$2200 for a Bessa III. IMHO, in today's market, Super Ikontas and 'modern' 120 folders from Fuji and Voigtlander aren't good 'bang for the buck'.
ZNIV: If you can afford it, a late model Zeiss Super Ikonta Type 3 or 4 is great (but expensive) camera, USD~$300+ (and up). More budget-conscious, try Mamiya Six Type 4 (1947) or later (for auto frame counting): USD~$200+/-; handles great; beefy front standard; 1 sec-1/500th Seikosha-Rapid shutter; bright RF/VF; reliable film advance/counter mechanism; unit focus (not front element); great focusing system. 2 for sale right now at that auction site.
Iskra 1 (1964): USD~$150+/-; built like T-37 tank; razor-sharp multi-coated lens; strong accurate shutter; m/x-sync + PC socket; big, bright RF/VF; unit-focusing lens; rounded smooth body shape; lens threaded for series 5 filter; fast automatic film loading + counting-no ruby window; has lugs for neck-strap; 1/2 price copy of late-'50's Super Isolette. On the bay or go to www.fedka.com, FSU camera specialist in NYC, USA.
Consider: 1950's 6x6cm Agfa Isolette III/Ansco Speedex III; 6x9cm Agfa Record III; USD~$40-140+/-. depending on lens (Solinar is best); 1950's Zeiss 'Mess' Ikonta USD~$100-175 (look for one with Tessar). All these have built-in, uncoupled RF's. Super Isolette, late 50's, equal to or better than Super Ikonta, top of Agfa line, all the bells and whistles, USD~$300+ (and up).
Also: Moscva 3, 4 and 5 from FSU; all have coupled RF's; copied from/evolved out of Super Ikontas; were produced into the 1980's; USD~$100-200+/-.
With most German 120 folders, I and II are usually cheaper models. III and 'Mess' have built-in UNcoupled RF's. 'Super' has coupled RF.
My advice, try to find more "modern" ('50's and newer) models, with: accessory shoe for clip-on light meter; 4 element f/3.5 lenses; x-sync; 1 sec.-1/500th shutters; better, brighter RF/VF's; auto or semi-auto film advance/frame counting. If you plan on shooting with it regularly, I don't recommend buying any pre-1947 folder.
ZNIV: If you can afford it, a late model Zeiss Super Ikonta Type 3 or 4 is great (but expensive) camera, USD~$300+ (and up). More budget-conscious, try Mamiya Six Type 4 (1947) or later (for auto frame counting): USD~$200+/-; handles great; beefy front standard; 1 sec-1/500th Seikosha-Rapid shutter; bright RF/VF; reliable film advance/counter mechanism; unit focus (not front element); great focusing system. 2 for sale right now at that auction site.
Iskra 1 (1964): USD~$150+/-; built like T-37 tank; razor-sharp multi-coated lens; strong accurate shutter; m/x-sync + PC socket; big, bright RF/VF; unit-focusing lens; rounded smooth body shape; lens threaded for series 5 filter; fast automatic film loading + counting-no ruby window; has lugs for neck-strap; 1/2 price copy of late-'50's Super Isolette. On the bay or go to www.fedka.com, FSU camera specialist in NYC, USA.
Consider: 1950's 6x6cm Agfa Isolette III/Ansco Speedex III; 6x9cm Agfa Record III; USD~$40-140+/-. depending on lens (Solinar is best); 1950's Zeiss 'Mess' Ikonta USD~$100-175 (look for one with Tessar). All these have built-in, uncoupled RF's. Super Isolette, late 50's, equal to or better than Super Ikonta, top of Agfa line, all the bells and whistles, USD~$300+ (and up).
Also: Moscva 3, 4 and 5 from FSU; all have coupled RF's; copied from/evolved out of Super Ikontas; were produced into the 1980's; USD~$100-200+/-.
With most German 120 folders, I and II are usually cheaper models. III and 'Mess' have built-in UNcoupled RF's. 'Super' has coupled RF.
My advice, try to find more "modern" ('50's and newer) models, with: accessory shoe for clip-on light meter; 4 element f/3.5 lenses; x-sync; 1 sec.-1/500th shutters; better, brighter RF/VF's; auto or semi-auto film advance/frame counting. If you plan on shooting with it regularly, I don't recommend buying any pre-1947 folder.
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NZBOY
Newbie
Hi I have just run film through mine and.....
Hi I have just run film through mine and.....
have realised that the pictures are not great.
I was expecting more. Help me sort this one out, what has caused this: dust, a light leak or something else???
I used a tried and tested Lunasix lightmeter so that isnt the problem.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Hi I have just run film through mine and.....
have realised that the pictures are not great.
I was expecting more. Help me sort this one out, what has caused this: dust, a light leak or something else???
I used a tried and tested Lunasix lightmeter so that isnt the problem.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Attachments
dave61
Established
Is this with a Mamiya-Six? Did you insert pressure plate after loading, is film inserted under guides, is pressure plate right-side-up,etc.? The film-loading of the Mamiya-Six can be tricky until it's down pat. 
With any older camera: have you taken canned air, blown out dust, film chips, paint flecks, cat hair, etc.? These things find their way into old cameras and stick to the insides (particularly inside the bellows). When you run film through, the crud lands in the film plane.
Is there a ruby window? Did you leave the sliding cover open?:bang:
Clean the inside of the lens, too. Stuff on/between elements can do this. Most Tessar-type lenses can be unscrewed from front and back of shutter without removing it from front standard.
Always use a multi-coated UV filter, particularly if you have an uncoated lens. If there's any strong light source, use a lens shade, too. Old lenses produce flare. Learn to expect it.
With any older camera: have you taken canned air, blown out dust, film chips, paint flecks, cat hair, etc.? These things find their way into old cameras and stick to the insides (particularly inside the bellows). When you run film through, the crud lands in the film plane.
Is there a ruby window? Did you leave the sliding cover open?:bang:
Clean the inside of the lens, too. Stuff on/between elements can do this. Most Tessar-type lenses can be unscrewed from front and back of shutter without removing it from front standard.
Always use a multi-coated UV filter, particularly if you have an uncoated lens. If there's any strong light source, use a lens shade, too. Old lenses produce flare. Learn to expect it.
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PMCC
Late adopter.
What size filter and lens hood does the Mamiya 6 (IV) take?
dave61
Established
PMCC- My Mamiya-Six uses a 36mm Siip-On style filter. It's called "A 36", same size as early Leica. My lens has no threads to mount screw-in filters. I find filters on ebay. Search under 'Cameras and Photography' with "36mm filter" and look for 'push-on' or 'slip-on'. I found a UV Haze filter that fits with the front door closed. Mamiya Six has a generously bulbous front door.
My lens is apparently not coated, so UV filter stays on 24/7. I also picked up a #1 Green filter to increase contrast and a lens shade to reduce internal flare/aberrations.
A caveat, my early (1947-48) type 4 came with "Olympus Zuiko" 75mm/f-3.5 lens. Later/earlier models may have different lenses, in another filter size than mine. Best bet is to take a micrometer (or accurate ruler ruled in millimeters) and measure the outside diameter of the front lens ring. I'm assuming it doesn't have threads (late models did, I think). If it has threads, measure the inside diameter, of course. Good luck.
My lens is apparently not coated, so UV filter stays on 24/7. I also picked up a #1 Green filter to increase contrast and a lens shade to reduce internal flare/aberrations.
A caveat, my early (1947-48) type 4 came with "Olympus Zuiko" 75mm/f-3.5 lens. Later/earlier models may have different lenses, in another filter size than mine. Best bet is to take a micrometer (or accurate ruler ruled in millimeters) and measure the outside diameter of the front lens ring. I'm assuming it doesn't have threads (late models did, I think). If it has threads, measure the inside diameter, of course. Good luck.
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