nightfly
Well-known
Wondering if anyone is developing cinema film like Kodak Vision at home?
Never done color at home and am pretty happy with my lab for standard C-41 but have gotten curious about some of the movie film stocks but don't really want to send off to one of the limited places that develops them so was thinking of doing it at home. I've seen some kits but was wondering if anyone had real world experience.
Never done color at home and am pretty happy with my lab for standard C-41 but have gotten curious about some of the movie film stocks but don't really want to send off to one of the limited places that develops them so was thinking of doing it at home. I've seen some kits but was wondering if anyone had real world experience.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
It is common among some of us 
.
I developed it in ECN-2 kits, custom made in Moscow. And in regular C-41 kits. No difference at all.
Before developing, washing soda to relatively hot water and shake like crazy.
After developing, washing, clean with fingers and water to get rid of the rest of RemJet and then PhotoFlo.
Colors are odd, but some claims to like them. But none of them are switching to it long term, it seems. Expired ECN-2 is very lomography.
ECN-2 was good BW film, but prices went up.
Google ECN-2 film developing at home.
Fuji 250D in ECN-2 kit.
same:
Same but printed on BW RC dr paper:
Very old Kodak 50D in Rodinal:
.I developed it in ECN-2 kits, custom made in Moscow. And in regular C-41 kits. No difference at all.
Before developing, washing soda to relatively hot water and shake like crazy.
After developing, washing, clean with fingers and water to get rid of the rest of RemJet and then PhotoFlo.
Colors are odd, but some claims to like them.
But none of them are switching to it long term, it seems. Expired ECN-2 is very lomography. ECN-2 was good BW film, but prices went up.
Google ECN-2 film developing at home.
Fuji 250D in ECN-2 kit.
same:
Same but printed on BW RC dr paper:
Very old Kodak 50D in Rodinal:
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
Just once, Vision 250, with C41 and Remjet remover, which I didn't quite get fully removed from all. I liked the colours as much as Portra, but I no longer shoot colour film.
Yes, but not recently... In a Spotmatic ES I shot some Kodak Eastman Color Negative 5247 ECN exposed at EI = 80 (this is repackaged movie film with sooty black masking that comes out in processing). Seattle Film Works marketed it with processing included and sent a fresh roll in the return package to keep one going!
Once in 1983 (year -1 of the Macintosh Era) I processed it at home in an Ilford XP1 chemical kit (a slightly modified C41 process meant for the early version of their chromogenic B&W film) 100°F, 5+ min, 2 rolls in 300cc solution. The black soot did come out in the processing and that was a one-shot operation! Negatives looked very good.
IMO the tough part of doing color at home is temperature and time control. The temps are high and the times are so short that errors easily make a difference.
Once in 1983 (year -1 of the Macintosh Era) I processed it at home in an Ilford XP1 chemical kit (a slightly modified C41 process meant for the early version of their chromogenic B&W film) 100°F, 5+ min, 2 rolls in 300cc solution. The black soot did come out in the processing and that was a one-shot operation! Negatives looked very good.
IMO the tough part of doing color at home is temperature and time control. The temps are high and the times are so short that errors easily make a difference.
brbo
Well-known
I've developed a lot of ECN-2 rolls at home in ECN-2 or C-41 developer. Takes a bit more work (remjet removal), but it's easy enough.
I don't find colours to be odd.
Fuji Eterna 500T:
Kodak Vision3 50D:
Kodak Vision3 250D:
Kodak Vision3 500T:
I don't find colours to be odd.
Fuji Eterna 500T:
Kodak Vision3 50D:
Kodak Vision3 250D:
Kodak Vision3 500T:
nightfly
Well-known
That Vision 3 500t is the one that gets me otherwise I'm pretty content with Portra.
Might have to give it a go.
I notice for color processing most people use the plastic patterson tanks rather than the stainless steel tanks and hewes reels that I've always preferred for black and white. is there a reason for this?
Might have to give it a go.
I notice for color processing most people use the plastic patterson tanks rather than the stainless steel tanks and hewes reels that I've always preferred for black and white. is there a reason for this?
Mackinaw
Think Different
nightfly
Well-known
Great. Thought it was maybe temp or that little agitator vs shaking.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
No idea where this preferences statistic comes from.
I use plastic because it just better to load.
But Ecn-2 film leaves black gunk on white plastic reels.
I use plastic because it just better to load.
But Ecn-2 film leaves black gunk on white plastic reels.
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
I use plastic because I only have plastic tanks...
marekbjj
Member
I have done this Vision 500T using a Unicolor C41 kit. Worked well.
I might have a roll left that I can do test shots with for you. Will let you know.
In terms of Remjet removal, two teaspoons of baking soda in about 1.5L of water is what I do to get rid of Remjet. Before the rinse phase is when I do it. Basically you want to pour in your baking soda/water mixture, agitate the **** out of it, dump it, and repeat until your mixture comes out clear.
I also recommend getting separate reels if you're using plastic reels. They will get gunked up and are tedious to clean. Best bet is to keep a set for remjet purposes.
I might have a roll left that I can do test shots with for you. Will let you know.
In terms of Remjet removal, two teaspoons of baking soda in about 1.5L of water is what I do to get rid of Remjet. Before the rinse phase is when I do it. Basically you want to pour in your baking soda/water mixture, agitate the **** out of it, dump it, and repeat until your mixture comes out clear.
I also recommend getting separate reels if you're using plastic reels. They will get gunked up and are tedious to clean. Best bet is to keep a set for remjet purposes.
nightfly
Well-known
Will use my steel tanks and reels as I prefer them anyway.
Watched a guy on YouTube who basically just rubs the Remjet off by hanging the film and going over the non-emulsion side with a damp microfiber cloth 3 times before the final stage of processing wringing out the cloth in between. Seems to work.
Watched a guy on YouTube who basically just rubs the Remjet off by hanging the film and going over the non-emulsion side with a damp microfiber cloth 3 times before the final stage of processing wringing out the cloth in between. Seems to work.
tonyc
Established
For the prebath the correct solution is:
100g Sodium Sulfate
20g borax
Per litre of water.
Works a bit better than bicarb.
For colour developer C41 gives more contrast and almost an extra
stop of exposure, but colours are not entirely accurate.
ECN-2 colour developer gives a lower gamma, and truer film speed,
and of course more accurate colours if you are concerned about that.
If you can deal with the extra premature step, and ramjet wipe at the
end, then economically and technically it is the best colour film available.
( Current Kodak Vision III )
The 65mm stuff is also great when sliced for 120 medium format.
-tc
100g Sodium Sulfate
20g borax
Per litre of water.
Works a bit better than bicarb.
For colour developer C41 gives more contrast and almost an extra
stop of exposure, but colours are not entirely accurate.
ECN-2 colour developer gives a lower gamma, and truer film speed,
and of course more accurate colours if you are concerned about that.
If you can deal with the extra premature step, and ramjet wipe at the
end, then economically and technically it is the best colour film available.
( Current Kodak Vision III )
The 65mm stuff is also great when sliced for 120 medium format.
-tc
Eugen Mezei
Well-known
Why before? You risk getting remjet onto the emulsion. Not better getting it there after you developed?
olakiril
Well-known
Kodak Vision3 500T:
This makes me want to start shooting film again.