greyhoundman
Well-known
Don't count on studs being evenly placed. They could be any distance. I've worked on NE homes from that era.
pesphoto
Veteran
greyhoundman said:
Cool, thanks. Wanna come help next week? I'll buy beer.......
greyhoundman
Well-known
Want the job to turn out well? Leave the drinking for the end of the day. 
cbass
Nutmegger
After attempting some DIY drywall repairs in my basement, I learned to do everything by the book....
....the phone book and the checkbook!
Seriously, all the advice given above is good. Take your time, cut carefully and make sure you have a plan to properly dispose of the old materials. Many municipal trash haulers won't accept waste building materials.
....the phone book and the checkbook!
Seriously, all the advice given above is good. Take your time, cut carefully and make sure you have a plan to properly dispose of the old materials. Many municipal trash haulers won't accept waste building materials.
pesphoto
Veteran
greyhoundman said:Want the job to turn out well? Leave the drinking for the end of the day.
Ok will do, so........... you'll come then?
greyhoundman
Well-known
I think plane fare would be a tad high.
pesphoto
Veteran
cbass said:
Im waiting for a quote from a guy to possibly do the work. If I go that way what should I expect to pay a pro do it for me? He is going to quote by the sheet of drywall. Can anyone give me examples of what to expect?
BILLC
Established
I remodel and have to work in homes people are living in. I use sanding screen-sandpaper and a handle that connects to a shop vac. I got mine at Sherwin-Williams but any paint store should have one. The hand one should do.
I make more dust cutting than sanding. I finish with a large wet sponge, the car washing kind, which gives a nice feather and no dust.
Good Luck
Bill
I make more dust cutting than sanding. I finish with a large wet sponge, the car washing kind, which gives a nice feather and no dust.
Good Luck
Bill
VinceC
Veteran
>>I wondered what the hell you guys were talking about for a while ... in Oz it's known as Gyproc ... please translate for us colonials in future!<<
Eurpopeans, and others who don't use wood-frame construction, probably are also pretty puzzled. In most of the United States, the walls of a home are made of wood framing covered by semi-flexible slabs of chalk-like strata, sheathed by thick paper and known as drywall. This makes pictures easy to hang. But if there's a house fire, not much is left.
Eurpopeans, and others who don't use wood-frame construction, probably are also pretty puzzled. In most of the United States, the walls of a home are made of wood framing covered by semi-flexible slabs of chalk-like strata, sheathed by thick paper and known as drywall. This makes pictures easy to hang. But if there's a house fire, not much is left.
Sparrow
Veteran
Dry lining is plasterboard in the UK, apparently it’s something different again in Oz,
I do wish you colonials would all corrupt the language in the same way
:angel: :angel:
I do wish you colonials would all corrupt the language in the same way
:angel: :angel:
kmack
do your job, then let go
If the plaster is simply cracking I would suggest you just spackle and skim coat the old plaster. It will be a lot cheaper and faster. Personally I would not drywall over an existing plaster and lath wall.
I am living in and renovating 1830's house house. From experience I have found that you are better off in the long run to remove the plaster and lath ( A dirty nasty job ) , re-insulate and then dry wall. An example room I did can be found on my Flickr
I am living in and renovating 1830's house house. From experience I have found that you are better off in the long run to remove the plaster and lath ( A dirty nasty job ) , re-insulate and then dry wall. An example room I did can be found on my Flickr
BillBingham2
Registered User
Having a house from 1913, I can say, going down to the studs is the best way to go, but it's a LOT of work (TONS OF MESS). It can be very cool to see what is in there when you do. I found some old wiring and pipes running through the walls from when the house was built.
Somewhere I heard that they were making a 1/4 thick drywall for redo jobs like yours. I would see if you can find it near you and put it in place over the existing walls. Get metal face plates for the electrical, loosen the outlet or switch and then use the face plate to pull it up to the right level (flush with the new wall).
IMHO, with LP walls, stuf finders are useless. Get a small drill bit and run some tests (drill some holes) to find studs. As you are covering the whole wall, there is no down side to this.
You may want to see if you can hang the walls yourself and get someone to do the taping and mudding. If you do the taping and mudding yourself, get a wide metal blade to smooth the mud with. My favorite is about 9 or 10 inches wide. There is a sander that attaches to a shopvac and uses water as a filter to keep the dust down. Small ones work great and do not cost an arm and a leg (you will need a shopvac too).
How hard this is depends upon how picky you and your wife are about the look. If you have the time, it's some great skills to learn as being able to move walls and doors and stuff is very handy in an old house (l have lots of experience here).
I am in Chicago and working on building some built-ins next, just finished refinishing my kitchen floor (maple hard wood) otherwise.....
One approach is to have someone come in and do it, you help them. This gives you the chance to learn and reduces the hours and cost. Perhaps you do this for one room and then you do the next?
Email me if you have questions.
B2 (;->
Somewhere I heard that they were making a 1/4 thick drywall for redo jobs like yours. I would see if you can find it near you and put it in place over the existing walls. Get metal face plates for the electrical, loosen the outlet or switch and then use the face plate to pull it up to the right level (flush with the new wall).
IMHO, with LP walls, stuf finders are useless. Get a small drill bit and run some tests (drill some holes) to find studs. As you are covering the whole wall, there is no down side to this.
You may want to see if you can hang the walls yourself and get someone to do the taping and mudding. If you do the taping and mudding yourself, get a wide metal blade to smooth the mud with. My favorite is about 9 or 10 inches wide. There is a sander that attaches to a shopvac and uses water as a filter to keep the dust down. Small ones work great and do not cost an arm and a leg (you will need a shopvac too).
How hard this is depends upon how picky you and your wife are about the look. If you have the time, it's some great skills to learn as being able to move walls and doors and stuff is very handy in an old house (l have lots of experience here).
I am in Chicago and working on building some built-ins next, just finished refinishing my kitchen floor (maple hard wood) otherwise.....
One approach is to have someone come in and do it, you help them. This gives you the chance to learn and reduces the hours and cost. Perhaps you do this for one room and then you do the next?
Email me if you have questions.
B2 (;->
vodid
Cone of Uncertainty
Fix the cracks in your old horsehair walls. It'd be MUCH easier than putting in new drywall. Although drywall materials are relatively cheap, there's a lot of labor cost in doing a good job, and it creates LOTS of fine dust. Also, installing drywall will necessarily destroy the underlying horsehair walls, so if you've got any thoughts about the historic value of the original walls, be aware that they'll be destroyed. And installing drywall over the original walls...Your rooms will be a tad smaller. Find an old school craftsman (or learn how to do it yourself) and repair your existing walls. Much less expense and disruption to your life. That's my suggestion.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Wow -- didn't know there were so many French Canadians on the forum. (A joke -- here in New England it seems all dry wall professionals are from Quebec.)