Huss
Veteran
Freelensing test with a D750 (using the focus confirmation dot not Live View) and mount removed Series E 50 1.8.
I did not use Live View as I did not want the sensor exposed more than I could help.. It was interesting to see what exposure/iso readings the camera came up with which made me realise that I would not have any idea as to how to do this on film!
Anyone else playing around with this technique? It cost me all of $5 for the sacrificial lens which I bought a few days ago at a flea market.
I did not use Live View as I did not want the sensor exposed more than I could help.. It was interesting to see what exposure/iso readings the camera came up with which made me realise that I would not have any idea as to how to do this on film!
Anyone else playing around with this technique? It cost me all of $5 for the sacrificial lens which I bought a few days ago at a flea market.
oftheherd
Veteran
I had to look up freelensing. I never heard that term before. That looks more like something I would expect from something covering the lens, or an effect obtained in the darkroom. (with old style film and printing that is)
Interesting photo anyway.
Interesting photo anyway.
rajmohan-fotograf
rajmohan
I've been reluctant to do it for fear of getting too much crud on my sensor, and/or dropping the lens!
Out to Lunch
Ventor
For all of you who also did not know what it was all about:
"Freelensing is a technique used with interchangeable lens cameras in both film-based and digital photography. The lens is detached from the camera and held in front of the lens mount by hand during exposure. This allows the lens to be tilted or shifted creating a similar effect to a perspective control or “Tilt-Shift” lens, only with a lower degree of fidelity. The result is a combination of selective focus and light leakage which are used creatively to create surreal imagery. Because of the increase in flange-focal distance, this technique is most successful with closeup or macro photography, where Infinity focus is not essential.
The lens used does not necessarily have to be native to the brand of camera, since it is not physically attached to it. In addition, the lens may also be reversed for Macro photography. By shooting through a normal to wide-angle lens backwards, increased magnification can be achieved. One of the by-products of freelensing is the introduction of “light leaks” which can be controlled to some degree and produce toy-camera like effects similar to those achieved with a Holga or Diana camera.
The process is facilitated by use of an SLR, DSLR or MILC (Mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera), in which the focus, and to a lesser degree the composition of the image can be previewed prior to capture. In the case of a rangefinder or similar non-reflex or non live-view camera, the resulting focus would be unpredictable enough to be impractical, and yet not impossible to achieve.
Freelensing is best accomplished in a relatively dry, dust-free environment due to potential exposure of the mirror box to the elements. Once the photos have been captured, the lens should be remounted or a body cap installed to protect the mirror and sensor from dust or moisture. Frequent use of a bulb blower or electronic cleaning are recommended". Source: Wikipedia
"Freelensing is a technique used with interchangeable lens cameras in both film-based and digital photography. The lens is detached from the camera and held in front of the lens mount by hand during exposure. This allows the lens to be tilted or shifted creating a similar effect to a perspective control or “Tilt-Shift” lens, only with a lower degree of fidelity. The result is a combination of selective focus and light leakage which are used creatively to create surreal imagery. Because of the increase in flange-focal distance, this technique is most successful with closeup or macro photography, where Infinity focus is not essential.
The lens used does not necessarily have to be native to the brand of camera, since it is not physically attached to it. In addition, the lens may also be reversed for Macro photography. By shooting through a normal to wide-angle lens backwards, increased magnification can be achieved. One of the by-products of freelensing is the introduction of “light leaks” which can be controlled to some degree and produce toy-camera like effects similar to those achieved with a Holga or Diana camera.
The process is facilitated by use of an SLR, DSLR or MILC (Mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera), in which the focus, and to a lesser degree the composition of the image can be previewed prior to capture. In the case of a rangefinder or similar non-reflex or non live-view camera, the resulting focus would be unpredictable enough to be impractical, and yet not impossible to achieve.
Freelensing is best accomplished in a relatively dry, dust-free environment due to potential exposure of the mirror box to the elements. Once the photos have been captured, the lens should be remounted or a body cap installed to protect the mirror and sensor from dust or moisture. Frequent use of a bulb blower or electronic cleaning are recommended". Source: Wikipedia
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
- on the list of things to try, but its a long list!
I tend to grab my Panasonic LF1 rather than GF1 these days.
Keep going to see what else you can produce - this result rather surprised me.
I tend to grab my Panasonic LF1 rather than GF1 these days.
Keep going to see what else you can produce - this result rather surprised me.
BillBingham2
Registered User
I had to look it up too. Looks like fun, great use for an old mirrorless body.
Wonder if there's a market for a small bag-bellows kit?
Thanks for sharing.
B2 (;->
Wonder if there's a market for a small bag-bellows kit?
Thanks for sharing.
B2 (;->
Not that interested in trying myself, but I like the image you've made.
MIkhail
-
Isn't it essentially the same as Lensbaby?
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I was practicing it.
Make sure, you have camera with sensor cleaning function and you have wet cleaning kit as well.
Make sure, you have camera with sensor cleaning function and you have wet cleaning kit as well.
tocalosh
Established
I've read that this is a technique Nick Brandt uses in some of his wildlife photography, with a Pentax 67 to get a 'tilt' effect.
Huss
Veteran
Pretty much except with the bonus (!) of light leaks and the fact that you can use any broken lens to do it. Or buy a $5 lens like I did at a flea market and use that.
It's just another fun thing to do.
radi(c)al_cam
Well-known
Dear Ko.Fe.,
this links does start a download — and besides, a (to me) weird file type *.webp? ):
Could you — or MOD — repair that please?
Thank you
Archiver
Veteran
I did this a few years ago when Phillip Bloom and James Miller popularized it in video work. The camera was the 5D Mark II, and the lens was the Pentax SMC-A 50/1.4. The effect can be quite lovely, and being able to move the lens back and forth over the sensor gives you a surprising amount of control over the focus and flares. It does expose the sensor to outside air, and is a bit cumbersome in practice.
These days, I prefer to use low contrast, wide aperture lenses with subtle manual focus adjustments to create a similar look.
These days, I prefer to use low contrast, wide aperture lenses with subtle manual focus adjustments to create a similar look.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Saw some pretty impressive stuff from a fellow over on the Aero Ektar FB group, who used an Aero Ektar and a Pentax 67.
He must have been a bodybuilder though.
Tried it myself when I still had my AE, but grew tired of it (literally!) pretty quick.
He must have been a bodybuilder though.
Tried it myself when I still had my AE, but grew tired of it (literally!) pretty quick.
Prest_400
Multiformat
Did try it a bit as a novelty with an OM lens over a m4/3 when I did not have any adapter, since then haven't done it again. In a way is like having a wiew camera without bellows.
dmr
Registered Abuser
Interesting technique. I must admit I never heard of it.
Possibly stupid question here, maybe a misunderstanding. If you take off the lens and hold it, I would think that you could only use it for very close subjects. Is that the point, or am I missing something?
Possibly stupid question here, maybe a misunderstanding. If you take off the lens and hold it, I would think that you could only use it for very close subjects. Is that the point, or am I missing something?
radi(c)al_cam
Well-known
FujiLove
Well-known
I was practicing it.
Make sure, you have camera with sensor cleaning function and you have wet cleaning kit as well.
Or use film
Huss
Veteran
Or use film
How do you determine exposure? Same as if the lens was attached? I ask because on my D750 the AE auto exposure w/ auto ISO was giving crazy high ISO readings but usable exposures. Of course the aperture was fixed at wide open on the lens.
I would like to use it with a film camera, because film rules, and I do not have to worry about the sensor. Which is another reason why film rules.
Huss
Veteran
You remove the lens mount and extraneous hardware from the back of the lens, exposing the glass. This allows you to place the lens inside the camera lens mount/mirror box and allows you to move it around getting focus from near to infinity.
Essentially you are ripping apart a donor lens, which is why I bought a sacrificial one from a flea market.