Bill Clark
Veteran
I used 50 ISO for film speed.
I made photos of two grand children! Fun and smiles.
I made photos of two grand children! Fun and smiles.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Yes, I checked the Freestyle product page too. No times are given.
BTW I should mention that I was printing with a condensor enlarger.
If you will be scanning you may prefer a slightly thinner negative.
Chris
BTW I should mention that I was printing with a condensor enlarger.
If you will be scanning you may prefer a slightly thinner negative.
Chris
Shac
Well-known
Thanks Chris - I will be scanning
Nokton48
Veteran
I started with the times from Digital Truth and then adjusted from there.
I bracket just about everything (out of habit) but one stop speed loss is about right.
But I don't shoot Tri-X, I use Eastman Double-X 5222 motion picture film.
I bracket just about everything (out of habit) but one stop speed loss is about right.
But I don't shoot Tri-X, I use Eastman Double-X 5222 motion picture film.
Mackinaw
Think Different
With the old Kodak Microdol, you would lose about one stop of speed when used straight. Last year, as a test, I shot two sheets of 4X5 Tri-X, one at an E.I. of 320, which I developed in Xtol 1:1; the other I shot at an E.I of 160 and developed in straight LegacyPro Mic-X. Density, contrast, etc. was about equal between the two sheets of film once they were processed.
Jim B.
Jim B.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
5222 @ EI 200 in MIC-X might be just the combination I've been looking for...
Chris
Chris
Nokton48
Veteran
This is about what to expect.
XX in Legacy Mic-X straight replenished
Actually your ISO may be more like 125
But I develop very long (25 minutes) it dosn't ruin anything and I love the results
Minolta SRT-101 #16 LS2000 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Minolta SRT-101 #17 Nikon LS2000 by Nokton48, on Flickr
XX in Legacy Mic-X straight replenished
Actually your ISO may be more like 125
But I develop very long (25 minutes) it dosn't ruin anything and I love the results


ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
IIRC 1:1 one-shot was my usual method. Dilution may yield slightly increased effective speed.
Chris
Chris
Shac
Well-known
Thanks again Chris - the stuff is on its way
Nokton48
Veteran
Plaubel Makina IIIR, 100mm f4.2 Plaubel Anticomar (the sharp 100mm Makina lens!) FP4+ 1/50 f11 Freestyle Legacy Mic-X dev
Connels Sign Makina IIIR 100mm F4 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Nokton48
Veteran
Nokton48
Veteran
x-ray
Veteran
I ran a roll of Pan F+ yesterday. I rated it at 25iso and processed it for 12min at 68f. I'm very pleased with the tonality. Shadows are full with open highlights. I'd been using Rodinal 1:50 for 8 min at 68f and get nice negs but just looking at the negs I think these are better. I'll print some in the darkroom and see how the look in a few days.
Shac
Well-known
Thanks for the update x-ray. I'm still looking for a gallon container to mix mine in
x-ray
Veteran
I'm looking forward to trying FP4 in it. Microdol x was always a lower contrast developer and that's what I need for FP4. I've always had trouble taming it's contrast.
I still have a stash of Efke KB25 that I often used Rodinal with but always felt shadows were an issue and didn't want to cut ISO back to increase shadows information. Mic x might be the trick as long as I don't have to rate it at ISO 12. That's just too slow to be practical. The best results I had with KB25 was with Neofin Blue but I think it's gone now.
I still have a stash of Efke KB25 that I often used Rodinal with but always felt shadows were an issue and didn't want to cut ISO back to increase shadows information. Mic x might be the trick as long as I don't have to rate it at ISO 12. That's just too slow to be practical. The best results I had with KB25 was with Neofin Blue but I think it's gone now.
Corran
Well-known
x-ray, I recently started playing with some Efke 25 I have in 4x5. I have 3 or 4 boxes of it but the contrast was wild and uncontrolled when developing with my normal developers. Shot at about an EI of 20 and developing in Pyrocat has given me excellent negatives. Just another suggestion.
I like the tonality in the first two images above. Might need to try this developer for high-contrast scenes.
I like the tonality in the first two images above. Might need to try this developer for high-contrast scenes.
x-ray
Veteran
x-ray, I recently started playing with some Efke 25 I have in 4x5. I have 3 or 4 boxes of it but the contrast was wild and uncontrolled when developing with my normal developers. Shot at about an EI of 20 and developing in Pyrocat has given me excellent negatives. Just another suggestion.
I like the tonality in the first two images above. Might need to try this developer for high-contrast scenes.
I have some PMK pyro and will give it a try. I wasn't sure how well it would work but looks like it's a good option. Thanks!
Nokton48
Veteran
PMK+ (I use a flat toothpick to add a dash of Amidol right before pouring it in) is my favorite developer with all three Ilford films. Legacy Mic-X is different and a close second.
I tried Legacy Mic-x with Efke 25 but I was dissapointed. You can easily mix Beutler developer, X-Ray. Just Metol and sulphite and the same thing as Neofin Blue. It's the Leica developer Willie Beutler made up for Leica, to exploit the quality of their lenses. I learned about this from TomA.
I tried Legacy Mic-x with Efke 25 but I was dissapointed. You can easily mix Beutler developer, X-Ray. Just Metol and sulphite and the same thing as Neofin Blue. It's the Leica developer Willie Beutler made up for Leica, to exploit the quality of their lenses. I learned about this from TomA.
Nokton48
Veteran
You Guys might find this helpful. I make replenisher using the Kodak formula here:
http://www.blende7.at/datenblaetter/kodak pdf/microdol.pdf
http://www.blende7.at/datenblaetter/kodak pdf/microdol.pdf
Nokton48
Veteran
The best results I had with KB25 was with Neofin Blue but I think it's gone now.
See formula here:
http://www.pictorialplanet.com/advanced_photography/Beutler.html
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