Anyone use bulk-loaded film in an automatic winding camera (G2, F6)?

[karateisland]

A friend and I have fallen in love with the look of Kodak Vision 250D. As you probably know it's not really available in 35mm canisters in the US (at least not in 36-exposure rolls), so we bought some pre-loaded canisters from eBay to try the film out and see how well it plays with our cameras.

Turns out it doesn't play so well with his Nikon F6, because the automatic winding mechanism ripped the film off the roll when it advanced to the last frame. To avoid a similar fate, I forced my G2 to rewind when it was on the 35th frame of the roll.

So, short story long, but here's the basic question: Does anyone shoot bulk-loaded film in an automatic winding camera? Do you find that it rips? Are there any work-arounds?

I'd love to buy 100' rolls of 250D and can it myself, but I'm worried that I'll be on a trip someplace and I'll accidentally rip the film off the roll when advancing to the 36th frame, and all because I wasn't thinking or something equally dumb.

 

[brbo]

I shoot Vision 3 films and other bulk films in compacts, Nikon F80 and Hasselblad Xpan. I tape the film to used Fuji/Kodak/Ilford canisters.

No problems so far (except that the last shot on the roll is not usable).

 

[Pioneer]

I used to shoot bulk loaded film in my Nikon F6 all the time. Run your tape from the front side of the film around the spool and tape it off on the back side. Shouldn't have any problems.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Get better tape. The green chemical resistant stuff used in labs.
I've used bulk loaded film in the F3 with MD4, F4s, F5, Hexar, Hexar RF, EOS 1V, EOS 1nRS, and probably a few others without a problem ever.

Phil Forrest

 

[ChrisPlatt]

I had similar experiences using my Nikon FM/2 with Nikon MD-11/12.
I solved the problem by using 3M Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape.

Wrap it around spool and attach on both sides as Pioneer suggests.
About an inch on each side will provide strong hold yet with some "give".

It remains flexible at all temperatures and peels off cleanly leaving no residue.

Chris

 

[karateisland]

Awesome, great tips. Thanks everyone!

 

[Dan Daniel]

One thing to watch out for is using too long a piece of tape. My first few bulk loads had the last image ruined by the tape. Check the distance on your camera between the cassette location and the film opening.

 

[Gerry M]

I bulk load for G1 & G2. No problems.

 

[znapper]

So, short story long, but here's the basic question: Does anyone shoot bulk-loaded film in an automatic winding camera? Do you find that it rips? Are there any work-arounds?

I've shot vision (50D 500T) in my Canon 1V and EOS 30, with sufficient tape (both sides of the film in case of reusing old casettes, my cameras wind the film back.

I mostly shoot with manual cameras though (IIIf, M3 and M6)

 

[David Hughes]

Interesting, I would have said that the problem with reloadable cassettes is getting the film end out of the slot in the spool after it's been used. I used to cut the film off the spool then trim it to pull the little tab through and out the other side.

OTOH, it does mean buying new cassettes and trying them out which is hard these days without camera stores to visit etc.

Regards, David

 

[FalseDigital]

I use bulk loaded HP5+ in tons of autowind bodies without a problem.
G2, G1, Hexar, Big Mini, etc.

I reuse commercial film cartridges by leaving a little bit of extra film sticking out when I cut it off before development. (in a dark bag of course) Then I attach the fresh bulk loaded film to that stuck out film with clear tape on the top AND bottom of the film. Never had a problem snapping and it's super easy to remove again when I reload them.

I don't know where you're based but I HIGHLY don't recommend ChrisPlatt's suggestion. Electrical tape will get gummy over time and could gunk up the inside of your cartridge. I live in a super humid place so it wouldn't even take a week for everything to melt inside.

 

[Filter Factor]

I used to shoot bulk loaded film in my Nikon F6 all the time. Run your tape from the front side of the film around the spool and tape it off on the back side. Shouldn't have any problems.

This is key. The camera senses the increase in tension when it reaches the end of the roll so a good, secure taped anchor point is critical or it will just pull off the spool. I tape mine just as Pioneer suggests and have never had any problems, even in my F6.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I'm using mostly bulk-loaded film. None of my automatic loading cameras have problem with it. Those are, were Canon EOS 3, 300 and Elan II.
Masking tape, reusable metal cassettes.

 

[Hern]

I use bulk loaded 5222 in my motoer wind compacts and just recently the Nikon F5. I find that a combination of decently strong 3M tape and the custom setting on the F5 to rewind the roll when it reaches frame 36 is good enough that it hasnt caused any trouble so far.

The F6 should have a similar function, no?

 

[waileong]

Ripping is caused by lousy tape.

 

[karateisland]

I use bulk loaded 5222 in my motoer wind compacts and just recently the Nikon F5. I find that a combination of decently strong 3M tape and the custom setting on the F5 to rewind the roll when it reaches frame 36 is good enough that it hasnt caused any trouble so far.

The F6 should have a similar function, no?

After ruining this roll by ripping it off the spool, my friend dropped his camera (and himself) into a river while trying to get that shot. :bang:


He's having some bad camera luck these days.

 

[Hern]

After ruining this roll by ripping it off the spool, my friend dropped his camera (and himself) into a river while trying to get that shot. :bang:


He's having some bad camera luck these days.

😱 I can only hope the weather sealing was good enough!

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

I used to shoot bulk loaded film in my Nikon F6 all the time. Run your tape from the front side of the film around the spool and tape it off on the back side. Shouldn't have any problems.

I second this. Never a problem.

Nikon N90s, F100, and various SLRs with motor drives.

 

[ChrisPlatt]

I don't know where you're based but I HIGHLY don't recommend ChrisPlatt's suggestion.
Electrical tape will get gummy over time and could gunk up the inside of your cartridge.
I live in a super humid place so it wouldn't even take a week for everything to melt inside.

3M Super 33+ remains stable and secure in extremes of temperature and humidity.
It is the standard product used in the US electrical industry.

It was the product issued by my former employer; they did contract work for the US government agencies
including Department of Defense, so I presume it is also "mil-spec" i.e. meets military specifications.

We often have high humidity in New York and other places I've visited; I have never experienced the failure you hypothesize.
Even after exposure to high heat and humidity Super 33+ peels off cleanly, leaving no adhesive residue.

Peeling off the tape is far preferable to blindly cutting the film from the spool inside the changing bag - a great advantage!

Your comments might well be applicable to the junk sold in 99¢ stores.
Suggest you try the good stuff some time, if it's available there.

Chris

 

[nikon_sam]

I used to shoot bulk loaded film in my Nikon F6 all the time. Run your tape from the front side of the film around the spool and tape it off on the back side. Shouldn't have any problems.

That's how I do it...never had a problem...used in Nikon F2 with Motordrive...
I use regular 3M masking tape 3/4" wide...