Terao
Kiloran
Agreed re the huge tank, a littl'un will do me for now...
B&W develop only - setup and ongoing costs?
- Thread starter Terao
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Terao
Kiloran
Terao said:
Which brings me on to the next question - which tank is easiest to use? Jobo or Paterson? I'm not good with fiddly things so am a bit scared about the whole film loading thing... 😱
markinlondon
Elmar user
Jobo or Paterson? I'd say AP tanks are very easy with the film guide on the reels, but I use Paterson because that's what the shop had. You need to sacrifice a roll of film to get familiar with the loading process, remember you'll be doing it in the dark. Also plastic reels don't load well when wet so you might consider buying some extra reels if you have large amounts of film to soup.
You have gotten a lot of good advise so far. I will only add an enthusiastic note to Go For It!!! Really it is fun, you gain control, IT IS EASY, and once you get past the initial investment for the equipment you will be saving money.
I use Paterson tanks and reels, like Mark, that is what the shop had. I was also surprised that the shop also recommended a modest amount of equipment as Frank listed. I have grown to have more, but you will decide if you need additional graduates or other things as you go along.
Good luck, I know you will be hooked.
I use Paterson tanks and reels, like Mark, that is what the shop had. I was also surprised that the shop also recommended a modest amount of equipment as Frank listed. I have grown to have more, but you will decide if you need additional graduates or other things as you go along.
Good luck, I know you will be hooked.
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
Your cell phone has a thermometer??steve garza said:
Terao
Kiloran
rover said:
Frank's sage-like avatar gives a feeling of confidence 😀
As do everyone elses comments, off to order the bits now!
Terao
Kiloran
Just one more thing though - given the choice what's better/easier - a changing bag or a darkroom? I can get my bathroom dark enough not to be able to see my hands in front of my face but flat surface space is a bit limited...
markinlondon
Elmar user
Terao said:
How long have you been in the dark? You need to stay in the dark for 10-15 minutes and then do the hand in front of face test. You may be surprised. A changing bag means you can work anywhere.
Terao
Kiloran
Probably only 5 minutes (it gets boring!) but it is pitch in there - small room with no windows off an internal corridor that also has no windows. I think I'll go for a changing bag though so I can at least sit at a stable surface with plenty of room...
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
go for a changing bag.
When I was at college we used dark-boxes, which were great, but heavy. At home since april-ish I've been using a *small* changing bag. I found it with an array of leftovers from my mother's photography bits and pieces, but they are hardly expensive to come by.
My equipment cost about £30. I think you can get a 2-reel developing tank, dev/stop/fix, at least 2 measuring cylinders, funnel, miniature measuring cup, changing bag and a thermometer for under £50 if you shop around. I definitely need a wetting agent to help with washing the films after though - it's the only thing my kit is missing.
Ongoing costs are just for chemicals - Rodinal is under a tenner for 500ml, Stop lasts forever, and Fix costs the same as Dev really. I've bought 3 bottles of cheap £5 dev since april if that gives you an idea of time/cost. I probably develop at least 1 roll a week.
I thoroughly recommend it. It's the only way I've been able to continue my photography. Course, now I'm trying to wrangle up a darkroom too!!
When I was at college we used dark-boxes, which were great, but heavy. At home since april-ish I've been using a *small* changing bag. I found it with an array of leftovers from my mother's photography bits and pieces, but they are hardly expensive to come by.
My equipment cost about £30. I think you can get a 2-reel developing tank, dev/stop/fix, at least 2 measuring cylinders, funnel, miniature measuring cup, changing bag and a thermometer for under £50 if you shop around. I definitely need a wetting agent to help with washing the films after though - it's the only thing my kit is missing.
Ongoing costs are just for chemicals - Rodinal is under a tenner for 500ml, Stop lasts forever, and Fix costs the same as Dev really. I've bought 3 bottles of cheap £5 dev since april if that gives you an idea of time/cost. I probably develop at least 1 roll a week.
I thoroughly recommend it. It's the only way I've been able to continue my photography. Course, now I'm trying to wrangle up a darkroom too!!
I use a changing bag, I think it helps me with eye hand coordination. Funny, I can't see my hands, but being able to see the bag and where they are it is easier for me to load the reels.
getmoresoon
Experimenting with light
And if you can be patient.....
And if you can be patient.....
For the patient, you might find someone getting rid of all their B&W gear for free!
A friend of a friend did that here this week, and I claimed possession of all of the following for the low, LOW cost of ZIP/NADA/Ziltch!
"Lucky 679" Enlarger with Nikon Nikor 50mm (1:2.8) Lens
"Gralab 451" Electronic Timer / Enlarger Control Module
"Saunders Omega" Enlarging Easle (11"x14")
"SL-5" Premier Safelight Box (15W)
Tanks / Trays / Chemistry / etc.
Ilford Multigrade IV FB (Fibre) Paper - 8"x10" / Glossy / 25 sheets
AGFA Multicontrast Premium MCP310 - 8"x10" / Glossy / 100 sheets
AGFA Multicontrast Premium MCP312 - 8"x10" / Semi-Matt / 100 sheets
Yippee!!!
And if you can be patient.....
For the patient, you might find someone getting rid of all their B&W gear for free!
A friend of a friend did that here this week, and I claimed possession of all of the following for the low, LOW cost of ZIP/NADA/Ziltch!
"Lucky 679" Enlarger with Nikon Nikor 50mm (1:2.8) Lens
"Gralab 451" Electronic Timer / Enlarger Control Module
"Saunders Omega" Enlarging Easle (11"x14")
"SL-5" Premier Safelight Box (15W)
Tanks / Trays / Chemistry / etc.
Ilford Multigrade IV FB (Fibre) Paper - 8"x10" / Glossy / 25 sheets
AGFA Multicontrast Premium MCP310 - 8"x10" / Glossy / 100 sheets
AGFA Multicontrast Premium MCP312 - 8"x10" / Semi-Matt / 100 sheets
Yippee!!!
FrankS
Registered User
Thanks, Terao. Stop bath is not necessary when developing film. A 30 sec water bath suffices, so that's one less chemical to worry about. The only down side of a changing bag is when it's hot and humid, moisture from sweaty hands makes the film sticky and impossible to load onto reels. In your bathroom, put a towel on the floor in front of the door to block that crack, and weather stripping arond the door frame will light-proof the windowless room. A broad board or rectangle of plywood laid across the sink, toilet, or bathtub can provide flat workspace.
FrankS
Registered User
Now, jsut add an enlarger with timer, 3 trays, paper developer, stop bath, and there you have the entire traditional process from start to finish! That is satisfying.
Terao
Kiloran
FrankS said:
Yikes! Darkroom GAS! I suffer enough from the lens strain of the affliction 😀
I have a good film scanner (Nikon Super Coolscan) and an fairly expert with it so I think I'll stick with that for the time being.
Although when you look at the price of high-end inkjets with a decent set of monochrome inks suddenly a wet print process looks very cheap. I'd need a bigger bathroom though 🙁
markinlondon
Elmar user
I forgot to say, have a look at these folks.
FrankS
Registered User
Just keep your eyes open and ear to the ground; people are giving away enlargers these days.
RyanG
Member
I use jobo tanks. But that's mostly because I have a jobo. I don't ever really use the jobo, though, but in case I decide to, the tanks will fit.
I use the plastic reel that it came with. Sometimes I have major problems putting the rolls onto the reel. I've found that certain types of film, especially Kodak, are more difficult to get on the reel -- mostly because of stiffness. I also invested in a box of rubber gloves, so that I don't have to worry about sweaty hands mucking up the film (and I have put finger prints on film in the past) once I get a difficult roll and find myself agonizing over how it won't get on the reel.
If I'm developing a few rolls in a row, I just wipe the plastic reel with tissue. Then it's dry and ready for another roll.
I splurged and ordered of them $20 metal reels from, I think, adorama, but they ran out of stock right after the order was put through. They said they'd send it to me once it came in, but that never happened. I still need to check to see whether they took my money.
I've been developing since March. Ongoing costs have been zero. Soon I'll have to buy more developer. And I don't use stop. I just develop, rinse with water, then fix.
I use the plastic reel that it came with. Sometimes I have major problems putting the rolls onto the reel. I've found that certain types of film, especially Kodak, are more difficult to get on the reel -- mostly because of stiffness. I also invested in a box of rubber gloves, so that I don't have to worry about sweaty hands mucking up the film (and I have put finger prints on film in the past) once I get a difficult roll and find myself agonizing over how it won't get on the reel.
If I'm developing a few rolls in a row, I just wipe the plastic reel with tissue. Then it's dry and ready for another roll.
I splurged and ordered of them $20 metal reels from, I think, adorama, but they ran out of stock right after the order was put through. They said they'd send it to me once it came in, but that never happened. I still need to check to see whether they took my money.
I've been developing since March. Ongoing costs have been zero. Soon I'll have to buy more developer. And I don't use stop. I just develop, rinse with water, then fix.
Screwy
All the gear no idea
Very interesting thread and very timely as it happens 😀 Anyone have any thoughts on the Rondinax 35U daylight developing tanks ? As I've just picked one up on E*bay unused and complete for a few pounds and plan to run a film through it as soon as the dev/fixer arrive .
Paul
Paul
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
Screwy, no idea about that, but I have a paterson orbital. Developed a couple 10x8 negs in it. Strangely they were successful (honestly it was complete guess work). Strange things to use. I'll be happier once I'm in the dark with a few trays in front of me.
