B&W developing

nemjo

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Hello everybody,
I've just restarted developing negs after a few years, OK more than twenty...
I made a test roll trying at least three things the same time.
1. all of them were shot open. (The glasses: CV 35 classic, CV 50 nokton, Canon 135.)
2. the neg is out of date, actually expired in november 2001. (it was really cheap, just for the trial.)
3. used Rodinal 2nd time.

My main question belongs to the third: how many times can one use a developer/fixer? (I use a one-reel tank)
Secondarily: is there an acceptable period after expiration to use the materials?

Thanks in advance,

nemjo

ps.: the scans are even not cropped.
 
Nemjo,

Rodinal is a one-use-only developer, to be diluted right before using it, it expires pretty fast once diluted with water (you should not even mix it too long before use, since it will already go bad if only sitting there) - quite paradox, if you consider that as a concentrate it keeps practically forever...
The only developers I'd use multiple times are 2-baths, with divided stages of developing and activationg substances (like Diafine).
Theoretically, you could reuse some developers like ID11, by adding a time factor for every film it is used with - but this is very bad practice, as there is no consistency, and all kinds of stuff from the films keep adding up and interacting with the agents in the developer.
So:
Rodinal: 1x use only!
ID11 and similar soups: use diluted 1+1 or 1+2 for economy - but only 1x.
Or use a 2-bath dev. which can be re-used for multiple films!

As for keeping: Rodinal concentrate keeps forever, even if opened, it just gets darker (like black coffee); other developers should be used up in a few months, after they have been mixed (for powders, like ID11; liquid concentrates should be used up even faster); most will turn slightly yellowish-brown once they start going bad (with the exception of ascorbate-based ones, like XTOL, Ilfosol-S or FX-50, which can go bad without any color changes from one film to the next - this is called 'sudden death').

Fixer: 1l of mixed solution can be re-used for about 6 films (35mm - 36 image, or 120 roll-film); the exact number depends on the concentration of active ingredients, usually there is some advice on the bottle; unopened fixer concentrate will keep for a couple of years, but once opened I'd use it up over a few months - if it gets cloudy/milky, with flaky stuff in there, and starts smelling really bad, don't use it any more.
There are test strips for testing whether your mixed fixer is still OK, but those are expensive and not very exact - you might adopt the 2-bath fixing-scheme used by most German fine printers: use your fixer as first bath for 6 films for half of the fixing time, and a second batch of fixer for the rest of the time; after 6 films, put away the first bath, use the second one as your new first bath, and mix up a fresh batch of fixer for a second bath. This makes extra-secure your films get fixed correctly!

Films: B&W films can be used a couple of years beyond their expiry date, if they have been stored cool & dry (best: in the freezer); if stored warm, they don't keep so long; also, high-sensitivity film can become fogged, and lose some of its speed once it is some time beyond its expiration date.

Roman
 
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Thanks Tom,

I attached the not adjusted scans just to show the original result.
I also use software(s) to enhance my pics, however I can't afford the Adobe's peak.
My only pain around that that I couldn't find how to build up a batch, what would be very usefull.
BTW what do you suggest to use to avoid water-spots?

Regards,

nemjo

ps.: the 35 is actually a 28
 
Hi nemjo,

For water spots, use a photoflo or similar wash aid in the final water wash. Not too much though, and if that doesn't help, you'll have to go with distilled water for the final rinse. Water spots are caused by the mineral content of the water being deposited on the film as the wash water evaporates.
 
You might also try filtering your final wash water. For drinking water I use a water jug that has a filter built into it. If such a thing is available where you are, it may (or may not) be cheaper than buying distilled water.
 
nemjo said:
Thanks Tom,

I attached the not adjusted scans just to show the original result.
I also use software(s) to enhance my pics, however I can't afford the Adobe's peak.
My only pain around that that I couldn't find how to build up a batch, what would be very usefull.
BTW what do you suggest to use to avoid water-spots?

Regards,

nemjo


If you do not have access to PhotoFlo then ONE drop of a very gentle dishwashing soap such as Dove brand (or its equivalent where you live) per gallon of final rinse water should help.

Tom
 
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BTW what do you suggest to use to avoid water-spots?

The archival absolutists (the ones who preach "never use 'rapid' or 'indicator' anything," for example) are going to hate this... they always hate easy stuff that works... but...

When you reach the final rinse stage, where you're mixing up Photo-Flo diluted 1:200 with water (for example, 2.5 ml of Photo-Flo in 500 ml of water) add the same amount of isopropyl alcohol (in this example, 2.5 ml of alcohol along with the Photo-Flo.) Then do your final rinse and dry as normal.

I don't know exactly how it works, but adding the alcohol absolutely and completely solved my problems with water spots and mineral 'trails.' I read this tip in a British photo magazine several years ago, and it has worked brilliantly for me ever since.

Yeah, maybe my negs will only last 198 years instead of 200 years, but compared to the damage potential of trying to remove the mineral spots afterward, it seems like a good trade to me.
 
Does anybody remember for sure the test for used fixer? As I recall it was to use the leader of the film, and check the time to clear. I think it was to use twice the time to clear for fixing, unless it went beyond five minutes. In that case, it was beyond its life and should be thrown away.

Does that sound right?
 
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