B&W film or Color Film scanned

[jcrutcher]

I just started scanning all of my film shots. The question is since I scan it anyways should I shot B&W film or Color Film (I like slides since I get a better scan) and convert it to B&W? Another issue with this is fewer labs are processing B&W film. I don't develop my own film, I use a professional lab. Thanks

 

[Roger Hicks]

XP2. Most conversions look horrible, at least to my eyes. Even the ones that look good, rarely look the same as film.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Fujitsu]

I dont see a difference between a real b&w scan and color scan converted to b&w. Maybe Roger can provide some examples?

 

[Roger Hicks]

I dont see a difference between a real b&w scan and color scan converted to b&w. Maybe Roger can provide some examples?

Not really. Why would I want to post pics I don't like? Or indeed to save pics I don't like? Besides, there's an immense difference between a pic on a screen; a print; and a photomechanical reproduction.

No doubt I've seen conversions that I didn't know were conversions. Some may have looked OK. Others, I may have assumed were bad prints/scans. But even people who are proud of their conversions, and make good ones, do not produce pictures that look to me anything like a good wet print or even like a scan off B+W. It's a question of tonality.

Probaby the only answer is for the OP to try it. If he's satisfied with conversions, fine. If not, there's an easy solution.

Cheers,

R.

 

[shimokita]

I would agree with Roger on this one. I shoot both b&w and color film depending on the subject etc. Not all b&w film mfgs are the same, and likewise with the different brands / versions of color film. Each type/mfg/variation tend to produce different results (in my experience).

Find a (1) b&w and (2) color film that you like (depending on the situation) and scan each to the best ability... you can not go wrong.

Casey

 

[StaaleS]

For scanning, I'd go with a C41-process black and white film like Kodak BW400CN or its Ilford equivalent. This is purely for practical reasons, it allows the scanner to do its dust-and-scratches magic, which doesn't work on pure b&w film.

 

[Nikkor AIS]

Voigtlander 15 4.5 ASPH Leica M3 XP2





50 1.0 Noctilux M7 XP2





Leica 28 1.9 ASPH on MP XP2








28 1.9 ASPH on Leica M7 XP2

I love XP2. Just love it. Of course, technically XP2 isn't real B+W. So these scans are examples of B+W conversion. And these are just crappy Superstore scans.



Gregory

 

[craygc]

I am really only focused on producing B&W images, and I have tried many times to go down the path of converting colour negs. Yes, it works and you can pre-filter but I have concluded that 95% of the time converted C41 just doesn't look like traditional B&W.

As well, in some sense I don't really understand XP2. Its just a single layer C41 emulsion. It has no special properties of shooting EI 50 ~ 800 beyond most other C41 films; being single layer, its probably a little sharper than full colour 400 speed C41's. But if I am going to shoot a C41 for B&W would much rather have the colour information to manipulate tonality after the fact.

 

[jcrutcher]

Thank you all for the feedback. I will continue on with B&W film and perfect my scanning. Once scanned and digital can I use electronic filters or should i use glass during the shoot?

Lastly tell me if I'm messing this up. I've just started to push to 800 (most of the time Delta 400 but I just loaded 125 FP4). My M6 only goes to 1000 shutter speed so for daytime shots in Arizona where I live I add a 3 stop ND filter. Then if I need it indoors without the extra light I take the filter off. I can use 1 roll of film for 2 different lighting situations. I've been pleased with this process, any reason not to do it?

 

[Fujitsu]

Thank you all for the feedback. I will continue on with B&W film and perfect my scanning. Once scanned and digital can I use electronic filters or should i use glass during the shoot?

You cant effectively filter a b&w negative. You have to filter either on location or apply filters on a color scan when converting to b&w (in most cases done by using the RGB channel mixer in Photoshop but since CS3 there´s also an easier b&w adjustment layer available).