B/W film recommendation for NYC Halloween Parade?

[venchka]

Portra 800/Provia @ 1600. Go for it!
I really like the idea of Kodachrome. However, I haven't seen the magenta shift in my 1989-1990 vintage Kodachrome 64.

 

[Brian Legge]

Even at f/2, I've found shooting night time parades a challenge at 1600. For some shots, I like the motion but it was still a still a ways off from stopping motion entirely. I don't know how much light you'll have there but I often find myself shooting around 1/30 at f/1.4 with iso 3200 film when shooting under street lights here. If your parade is really in the dark, I'd go with the fastest option you have to give yourself some room.

These were taking at the Torchlight parade in Seattle which started around dusk and ran into the night.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4862428408/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/4865620804/

Obviously the slower moving subjects are easier to deal with. 😉 I agree withe the poster who said ignore the 90/4. Unless you have some daylight shot opportunities, its speed will be a big problem.

If you now the area, you could try going out and metering it tonight around that time to see how much light you might have to deal with as the ambient. Assuming it will be that dark or brighter, that would give you your worst case exposure index to expect.

 

[Calzone]

Portra 800/Provia @ 1600. Go for it!
I really like the idea of Kodachrome. However, I haven't seen the magenta shift in my 1989-1990 vintage Kodachrome 64.

Thanks Wayne. I forgot that I have a roll of Porta 800 in the fridge. Since I shoot mostly B&W everyone seems to give me color film, especially the guys who have M8's and M9's.

I can't stress that some of the best shooting opportunities exist way before the parade, especially before there are huge crowds. The staging area before the parade start is a prime area to stake out. If you are late you will miss out. Always good to gather intelligence on subjects that you might want to shoot later.

At the Mermaid Parade, I knew I wanted to shoot the "Pole Dancer." I took my opportunity near the staging area while she was still fresh and not tired. I was well rewarded and got a series of shots that led up to capturing her inverted on the pole going spread eagle. Her legs and the pole made a full frame cruxifix on a square 220 negative shot with a Rolleiflex 3.5F. Shot the Rollei like one of my Nikon F3's with motordrive. Click-crank-click-crank...

A good goal for your shooting is to try and take shots that don't look like they were taken by a tourist. Saves a lot of film. These events get kinda intense and overwelming, but what fun. It becomes a challenge to cut the crowd out of your shots. Had many oportunities ruined by people cutting off my shot. All in fun though. Shooting with a forty means that you will have to get rather close BTW.

I'm glad the F3 has a motordrive, and my Leica a TA Rapidwinder. Very fast shooting and you always have to be ready.

Cal

 

[Denis M.]

I can't stress that some of the best shooting opportunities exist way before the parade, especially before there are huge crowds. The staging area before the parade start is a prime area to stake out. If you are late you will miss out. Always good to gather intelligence on subjects that you might want to shoot later.

Last year I got there around 4 to 5pm, there was a lot of photo opportunities. You want to be there before 6pm.

http://www.halloween-nyc.com/

Taking pictures during the parade at f/2 even at 1600 will be a challenge. But it should that much more fun.


I'm going to be taking it easy with a Rolleicord for daylight and 64T Quick-loads in LF with Gelled flash for the parade itself. I tried LF holders last year and it was pretty painful weight wise.

Here's a shot that someone else did of my get up from their gallery

http://photos.halloween-nyc.com/Other/Alan-Geringer-2009/10247425_hvDVq#711464337_yH5kd

Really, it was just a cover so I could use that Crown in public

 

[atlcruiser]

My .02 🙂

Tri x or arista premimum 400. Shoot at either 800 or 1600. 800 or 1600 will depend on how dark it really is. You can load the film and set the asa to 800 or 1600 and just point and meter. A handheld meter would do a much better job at that but you can do it with the in camera meter. Maybe 800 as the sun goes down and 1600 as it gets darker.

Since this will be commercially developed just tell them what you shot at..they can do the rest.

Koday says 400 and 800 can be developed at the same time/temp settings but I go a bit longer with the 800 and alomst twice as long with the 1600.

 

[Damaso]

I don't know how you could go wrong with Tri-x!

 

[Waterman100]

You guys are right. With a lens wide open only at f2, it's not gonna be easy. I was just at the Parade's staging area and a few blocks up the route to check out its lighting condition. Except for a few spots at the staging area right underneath lamp posts, I'd basically be shoot at 1/30 if metering at 1600.

It's gonna be an interesting exercise for me... I think I should bring along a flash just in case.

 

[atlcruiser]

1/15 at 800 will work just fine 🙂

1/30 at 1600 will be down right fast 🙂

leave the flash at home 🙂