B&W slides??

wyk_penguin

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Does anyone know how to make nice black and white slides? 😕

I have heard that you can contact print your negatives onto another negative, but I am worried that it would result in greyish slides. 🙁

I have also heard of people bleaching their negs or something like that. How does it work??
 
I've mentioned this a couple of times but nobody's ever commented on it, so I'm guessing everybody knows about it and it's redundant news, but since you're asking, I'll mention it anyway:

Ilford publishes their own method of turning their "regular" negative B&W film into "slides" (positives):

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/reversal_web.pdf
 
Panatomic-x could (past tense, it is no longer available), and maybe Plus-x can be made into positives, ie B&W slides. The process involved re-exposing it after 1st development.

I've seen instructions for doing this; gotta remember where!
 
You could always use color slide film to take copy-stand photographs of black-and-white prints. Getting a neutral color balance would be the main concern, then.
 
dr5 does great work. Each film has a different look, and reversal processing changes the film speed significantly, so be sure to read the information and look at the sample images on the website on the site before you shoot.

When dr5 was in New York, I had a chance to see how various films looked on their light table, and the examples on the website are pretty good representations of how different films react to the process.
 
You can reverse nearly any classic BW emulsion by tweaking the first development stage. There were some threads on that at apug I think.
 
Since I assume you want to copy negatives you already have
you need a slide copier and some clear based film, or just lightly gray.

take pictures of your negatives and develop to a low-medium contrast
VOILA!
 
For making transparencies from existing negatives, the traditional secret stuff to use was Eastman Fine Grain Release Positive Film 5302, available in 100-foot bulk rolls. This is basically printing-paper emulsion coated onto a 35mm film base. Its ISO equivalent is about 6. You could handle it under a red safelight and develop it in print developers (I used Ethol LPD.) Amazingly enough, it appears to be still available, according to the info on Kodak's website.

I used to use this by loading it into 35mm cartridges and "printing" negatives using a 35mm SLR and a bellows-type slide copier setup. (I was trying to give away this rig, a Sickles Chromapro, on RFF a couple of weeks ago, but got no takers... so sold it on eBay for 20 bucks. Sorry.) This allowed me to do cropping, sectional enlargements, etc. Dust control was a bit of a headache, but minimized by the diffusion light source of the copier. I still have trays and trays of very nice b&w slides made by this method.
 
I have a roll of FGP in a bulk loader. If you replace my cassettes I'll load a few for you. It's the easiest way, because this stuff is made to order. The contrast is the only problem. Like someone mentioned, use a dilute developer like the Ethol-- UFG or LPD or Selectol-Soft. You can develop by inspection since it's orthographic film.
 
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You can reverse any normal B+W film but the problem is the base has a tint. It's not that obtrusive in most films - I've used a lot of Ilford FP4 and HP5 over the years, but the base is definitely *not* clear which is why Agfa had the marketplace to itself with Scala. Why do you want a B+W slide? Aren't there other ways of doing it?
 
wyk_penguin said:
Does anyone know how to make nice black and white slides? 😕

I have heard that you can contact print your negatives onto another negative, but I am worried that it would result in greyish slides. 🙁

I have also heard of people bleaching their negs or something like that. How does it work??
I used 5to use Kodak Direct Positive Film. It acted like color slide film and gave nice B&W slides.

If you contact print the negs to film you will end with loss of contrast and more grain. Bleaching won't give you what you want. If you do want to contact print the negs, get high contrast copy film, again Kodak used to make it. Check with the Kodak page for both. If you use the HC Copy, use a very fine grain developer and keep your developer temp at 68 degrees. Very important.

Hope this helps a bit.

Michael 😀
 
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