Back focus on the RD-1

[Keith]

The first time I used the camera I was shooting in very low light and I noticed I missed focus a lot more than I expected and having now checked I've discovered there is definite back focus which really shows up with the 35mm f1.2 Nokton at close range and the associated short depth of field ... it's several centimeters with this lens. I tried other lenses including an old collapsable 50mm Summicron I have and the back focus seems consistent with all M mount lenses I tried.

I also noticed that infinity is off slightly and can't actually be achieved in the RF image with any lens ... it's short by a noticable amount. Vertical alignment is fine!

I have no problem adjusting the RF myself as it doesn't seem too complicated from what I've read and I'm fairly handy mechanically. I'm wondering if correcting the rangefinder at infinity will address the back focus issue at short distances?

I did notice that the package had received a bit of a hard time when I got the camera a few days ago and I'm aware that these things can move fairly easily if the camera gets a sufficient jolt, so maybe ... "Thank you once again Australia Post!" 🙄

 

[astro8]

Wish I had a quick answer but never hear much about this problem with the R-D1. It's mainly the vertical alignment.

If it was mine though, I'd have a go at adjusting it myself.

 

[mdarnton]

It sounds like your camera would like to back focus at infinity, too, if the lens would permit that, so I would say the first thing to do is to make infinity right, which it needs to be, anyway. Then, see if that fixed the close focus problem. I'm betting it will.

 

[back alley]

i've had the rf out on both my bodies but never noticed any back focus at the time.

 

[paradoxbox]

The close focus needs adjustment

Under the hotshoe there are 3 adjustment screws. The farthest one on the left controls the close focus.

Aim at a newer a meter away and adjust the screw til it's accurate. Check Rich Cutler's old site for more details on how to align the rangefinder. Infinity may need adjusting afterward as well. When you are done aligning, lock the screws with nail polish or the weakest loctite, but use it sparingly! Those screws are part of the rf mechanism so if you goop it up you'll have a major repair on your hands.

 

[Keith]

i've had the rf out on both my bodies but never noticed any back focus at the time.

It's really emphasised by the very short depth of field of the Nokton Joe. I was shooting it wide open (f1.2) in light the other night that had shutter speeds down to 1/30 and a little slower so it was pretty dark! It wasn't until I was looking at the images on the computer last night that I noticed the problem with the shots where I'd been fairly close.

With this pic I was focused on the little girl's eyes and face at around a meter and a half ... her dad's in focus (sharp) but she's not! (quite)

 

[aldobonnard]

Hi Keith,
You remind me of my R-D1 when I bought it from a french guy who had not done any service (it's obvious that mechanical systems drift with use).
I would not try to set up the close focus, at first. It's unlikely to be off and it's tricky; there is an influence of a setting on another and vice versa. If you are wrong with close focus then my view is that you are good for sending to Epson or a repair shop.
A correction in infinity should correct as well the focus issue you are talking about.
A good practice is once you have reset the infinity focus point, to stop the screw with some nail varnish (as described elsewhere, I use a toothpick to use just a tiny bit at the right location).

 

[Keith]

Hi Keith,
You remind me of my R-D1 when I bought it from a french guy who had not done any service (it's obvious that mechanical systems drift with use).
I would not try to set up the close focus, at first. It's unlikely to be off and it's tricky; there is an influence of a setting on another and vice versa. If you are wrong with close focus then my view is that you are good for sending to Epson or a repair shop.
A correction in infinity should correct as well the focus issue you are talking about.
A good practice is once you have reset the infinity focus point, to stop the screw with some nail varnish (as described elsewhere, I use a toothpick to use just a tiny bit at the right location).

Thanks ... and I gather this can be done through the hot shoe?

If it all gets a bit gnarly I'll probably pack the camera up and send it off to Japan for a full service. I really like the thing and allowing for how little I paid for it I don't see it as a huge issue.

In my limited use so far it's a great camera and well worth hanging on to. Much more user friendly than the M8 I had IMO. 🙂

 

[Darthfeeble]

All the information you will ever want is on the CameraQuest site. I have had two RD1s and both got serviced at Steve's Camera in So. California. CLA runs about $300 or so, depending on what is wrong. Excellent turnaround time and service. S

 

[Darthfeeble]

Oops, I see now that you are in Oz, sorry. Try the CQ site. S

 

[steveclem]

You may have a problem accessing the third screw as it's a little cramped under the hotshoe connector. I shall be taking mine to a repair shop as I've got a feeling the top plate will need to come off to adjust for the same problem I'm having with an identical set up.

 

[mdarnton]

It sounds like your camera would like to back focus at infinity, too, if the lens would permit that, so I would say the first thing to do is to make infinity right, which it needs to be, anyway. Then, see if that fixed the close focus problem. I'm betting it will.

Let me reiterate: adjust infinity FIRST. The "close focus" screw is for RF baselength. If both close and far are out, and you are indicating that, fixing infinity should fix both. If you start with the wrong one, you are messing up something that probably is OK already. Or, alternately, just follow the directions, which also direct that you should fix infinity first, not the other way around.
http://cameraquest.com/Epson-R-D1/_r-d1/r-d1_16.htm