Back to basics D76 & TriX

I'm saved!! Well, except fpr two wrecked rolls. I found a gallon of Lauder's Formula 76 in a local store and I'm back in biz. We have a hot-rod circuit cruise downtown this afternoon/evening, so it's Leica time again!
 
Rob-F said:
A quick note on the longevity of D-76: After much deliberation, I decided to chance doing a roll of Tri-X in some D-76 that I mixed last September. That was 9 months ago! I wanted to use the D-76 1:1, since that is my usual. To be on the safe side, I used 8oz D-76 to 8oz water, in a 16oz tank. The negatives look great! Not at all weak, pretty good shadows, highlights not blocked. Looking forward to printing some of these!

Oh, yeah: I had the D-76 stored in green bottles, and the bottle I used was only about 80% full!
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I rarely take chances with old developers (unless it is for testing purposes) as a screw-up usually results in wasted film and unprintable negatives. Developer are fairly cheap - at least if you mix your own and it is bad enough to screw up prints in the darkroom - the negative remains intact.
 
Tom A said:
I rarely take chances with old developers (unless it is for testing purposes) as a screw-up usually results in wasted film and unprintable negatives. Developer are fairly cheap - at least if you mix your own and it is bad enough to screw up prints in the darkroom - the negative remains intact.
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Agreed. This was strictly in the spirit of scientific curiosity!
 
What about Ilford's ID-11...

What about Ilford's ID-11...

Dear Tom-

I have hopes you are feeling better? on your topic, what is your opinion to ID-11? Most say it is the same as D76, but some have said it is the ORIGINAL formula of D76 and Kodaks current stock has been changed?

Your thoughts?


Best,

LV1
 
If you guys want to develop your own opinions on film/developer combinations, grab a few different ones, 3 rolls of your favorite film, set your camera on a tripod with one landscape/object and snap and bracket away. Cut each roll into thirds, develop in those 3 developers and print a few shots. I'm not saying Tom isn't experienced or anything like that, but it's all opinions. If I had a dollar for everyone who took a film/developer combination from someone's opinion and then complained about it, I'd have like ten bucks. Everyone's style of exposing images/rating film, agitation, margin of error in mixing, and printing/scanning/editing styles are so different that you're not likely able to replicate someone else's mastery of the combination unless you copy everything they do, the equipment they use, etc.
 
LeicaVirgin1 said:
Dear Tom-

I have hopes you are feeling better? on your topic, what is your opinion to ID-11? Most say it is the same as D76, but some have said it is the ORIGINAL formula of D76 and Kodaks current stock has been changed?

Your thoughts?


Best,

LV1
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The ID11 and the D76 are virtually the same. I use them as the same - same times and same agitation. As for being the original, could very well be - as the ID11 still comes in 2 packages, while Kodak's current D76 is a single envelope. Probably some kind of preservative in D76 to handle long term storage.
 
D76, nvr fails to impress me..i used it for triX as well as Agfa APX 100. I did a comparison on Agfa on D76 n tmax developer..its very obvious that D76 develops the best tones.

But somehow d76 just don work as well on tmax films..oh well, thats where tmax developer comes in.🙂
 
Tom A said:
What are you rating the film at? Try a couple of rolls and bracket the exposures from 250/320/400 and see which one works best.
As for developing, you might want to try different agitation too. 30-40 sec. initially and then 3 flips/taps every 60 sec.
It is worthwhile shooting yourself in with a film. Set aside 5-6 rolls and try different versions of film speed and agitation. Once you got it nailed - life gets much easier.
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Tom-

What do you think of the 2002 KODAK DATA GUIDE FOR B&W FILM DEVELOPING?

I use it and find the only things that have changed over the years is the time for tri-x and D76. I use D76 as a STOCK solution. It calls for 4-5 inversions during the first 30 seconds and then 4-5 inversions every 30 secs. thereafter @ 20c/68f for 6.75 mins.

I have attached some images below: Leica M3, (single stroke), 50mm Leitz Summilux f1.4v.2, New 400TX/Tri-X @ 320 ISO, D76 (stock) at stated above times and agitation. Scanned on an Epson v750pro @ 4800dpi. NO PHOTOSHOP/APERTURE/IPHOTO/or any DIGITAL MANIPULATION other than Scanning Software.

Thoughts TOM?

LV1
 

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With TriX you establish your own speed and processing. It is flexible enough that it will do just about anything! Your stuff looks good - and if it works - just keep doing it the same way. Once you have established how you like the negs to look - this is one case where consistency pays off. There are enough surprises anyway in the process of taking pictures!
 
Tom

I really have to thank you for starting the "Back to Basics" project. This thread and your Flickr photos motivated me to go all out in faith with just D-76 and 50 rolls of Tri-X for all my family shots (plus occasional street shots). I really like what I am getting so far.
 
There is something so simple with the TRIX/D76. You eliminate one factor of "change' - and concentrate on the shooting instead.
Of course, consistently inconsistent - we just came back from 4 weeks in Europe. I shot with Arista Premium 400 - which I am now developing in Pyrocat HD. Reason being that I had enough mixed up to do the 50+ rolls I shot while there.
Once those rolls are done I will mix up some more D76 and go back to basics.
 
I've dilligently stuck to Tri-X/Arista Premium and D76 1:1 (as the only developing I do at home), for over a year now and I can tell there is still much to learn. Thanks for the info and resulting motivation Tom!
 
n5jrn said:
How well (and how long) do you find D76 keeps after you open the packet and initially mix it?

I haven't done any developing myself, but i have a feeling that's going to change after my upcoming move (where I'll both have the space for a darkroom, and where I'll be in a small coastal town without much in the way of a film-processing infrastructure).

I've been researching film/developer combinations and had pretty much settled on HC110 because the undiluted syrup has a reputation for a long (as in years) shelf life, and I'm not sure how often I'll be having the time to soup my own film. It would be a pity (both economically and ecologically) to end up having to pour nearly a liter of undiluted D76 down the drain just because too much time has elapsed since I mixed it.
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D-76 tends to start out at moderate activity, increase as it ages, and then drop off exponentially in activity - with a fairly recognizable smell and color (the smell is more accurate).

I find HC-110 to be very hard on the curves of various films. It biases towards an upswept curve and usually this is less beneficial than a typical SS developer. I know there are some vehement HC-110 dudes, but it ain't for me. Sure, lasts forever, no free lunch though.

Also, 9m vs 10m isn't going to make a huge difference on the resulting negs with D-76.


400TX@250, D-76 1+1, can't go wrong with that combo, ever.

There are basically 2 well-known "god" combos that are fairly undisputed:

Tri-X, D-76 1+1
APX 100, Rodinal 1+50
 
Hi everyone,

First post. Wanting to ask a few questions in regards to developing Trix in D76.

I'm shooting Arista Premium at 400 and developing in D76 1:1, 20deg for 9mins 45 (as suggested by Kodak). Agitating for 30 seconds and then 2 inversions every 30 seconds.

I'm finding that my negatives are very contrasty, almost white/black with very little midtones.

I believe I need to reduce the development time, but I'm unsure where to start? Would 9mins be a sufficient starting point?

Thanks
 
I assuming you have a variety of scenes in one roll. You may want to try reducing the amount of agitation. Perhaps do 1 inversion every 1 minute for 10 minutes at 20 C.
 
Vincent.G said:
I assuming you have a variety of scenes in one roll. You may want to try reducing the amount of agitation. Perhaps do 1 inversion every 1 minute for 10 minutes at 20 C.
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Correct, normally have a mix of everything. Thanks for the tip, will give that a go with my next roll.

Cheers
 
If you are using a small tank (1-2 reel) I would reduce agitation as suggested. 2 "flips" every 60 seconds. Usually D76 is fairly normal in contrast so the "chalk and soot" effect could be exposure too.
"Waste" a roll or two - shoot it at different speed (100/200/400 and maybe even 800) - develop as you did initially and look at the negatives - you might find that you are shooting at 250 iso but developing for 400/800. Once you determined what speed to use - shoot another roll at that and see if it works for you. The trick is to find out what your "film speed" and developing procedure is - and then stick to that.
 
Tom A said:
If you are using a small tank (1-2 reel) I would reduce agitation as suggested. 2 "flips" every 60 seconds. Usually D76 is fairly normal in contrast so the "chalk and soot" effect could be exposure too.
"Waste" a roll or two - shoot it at different speed (100/200/400 and maybe even 800) - develop as you did initially and look at the negatives - you might find that you are shooting at 250 iso but developing for 400/800. Once you determined what speed to use - shoot another roll at that and see if it works for you. The trick is to find out what your "film speed" and developing procedure is - and then stick to that.
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Fantastic, I am using a small 2 roll tank so will give the agitation reduction a try. I'll run a few test rolls this weekend and see how I go.

Much appreciated Tom
 
Great thread.

My never fail combination is Tri-X @ 200 and D76 1+1 @20C for 8:00 minutes.

3 turns to start then one turn every 30 seconds.

And although I come from Perth, I've resisted the temptation to add vegemite. (See Tom's OP).
 
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