flanil
Member
I dont encounter this lighting often thus lacking experience in what exposure is right for this kind of backlight effect. Should it be a few stops under or otherwise? Or is it a bit dull due to my developing technique?
I might be visiting a destination with lots of alleys and sun and rays and such which i can experiment more. Some pointers will be really appreciated for me to start with.
Thanks guys
I might be visiting a destination with lots of alleys and sun and rays and such which i can experiment more. Some pointers will be really appreciated for me to start with.
Thanks guys
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David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
You don't mention the camera but I'll assume it's not got CW or Spot metering; in that case use incident light metering with the hand-held meter or else meter the usual way and (a good Rule of Thumb) open a stop or two wider. (Or use fill-in flash.)
Hope this helps.
Regards, David
You don't mention the camera but I'll assume it's not got CW or Spot metering; in that case use incident light metering with the hand-held meter or else meter the usual way and (a good Rule of Thumb) open a stop or two wider. (Or use fill-in flash.)
Hope this helps.
Regards, David
Robert Lai
Well-known
Fill-in flash is the best option to lower the contrast range. All other options lead to blown out background highlights, or a dark subject. For fill-in flash, manual mode is preferable, as "auto" exposure modes will tend to underexpose the subject a lot. The sensor will read the high intensity of light and put out very little light.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Well, yes and no about flash as the output is controllable, usually or else can be controlled but it depends on the exposure, the flash* and the camera's sync speed(s). It's an area where you can be lucky or else compromise...
Of course, these modern all singing and all dancing cameras will do all that automatically and so on, but where's the fun in that?
Regards, David
* Those low powered ones given away on ebay can be useful here.
Well, yes and no about flash as the output is controllable, usually or else can be controlled but it depends on the exposure, the flash* and the camera's sync speed(s). It's an area where you can be lucky or else compromise...
Of course, these modern all singing and all dancing cameras will do all that automatically and so on, but where's the fun in that?
Regards, David
* Those low powered ones given away on ebay can be useful here.
Solinar
Analog Preferred
If the above was shot in an AE mode - then yes more exposure would add more detail to the subject areas of the neg. Minus 1 to 2 stops is about all you should go with it.
If you choose to do a fill-flash - I'll second David's recommendation for a low power unit or flash unit with a low power setting. The goal is to blend in just enough light in the foreground to be within a stop and a half or two stops of the back-light.
If you choose to do a fill-flash - I'll second David's recommendation for a low power unit or flash unit with a low power setting. The goal is to blend in just enough light in the foreground to be within a stop and a half or two stops of the back-light.
leicapixie
Well-known
Backlight can have flare.
It lowers contrast.
Fill flash an option but difficult if a documentary or candid.
Finding backlight is easy and do more images.
If using a SLR/DSLR or screen, see if shading the lens helps..
I love backlight.
It lowers contrast.
Fill flash an option but difficult if a documentary or candid.
Finding backlight is easy and do more images.
If using a SLR/DSLR or screen, see if shading the lens helps..
I love backlight.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Backlight can be useful for hiding grey in young lady's hair...
Regards, David
Regards, David