raid
Dad Photographer
Leica is not the only brand/company with excellent cameras and lenses. I used to use other brands.
Barnack Leicas - why do people like them?
- Thread starter Krosya
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Hari
Well-known
Also, the barnaks allow the use of leitz metal cassettes,
so do the Ms, but only the earlier M3 and M2. Not sure
about the M4. Anyone know??
so do the Ms, but only the earlier M3 and M2. Not sure
about the M4. Anyone know??
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I do not have an M4, but I have an MDa. It accepts the old metal cassettes, so the M4 will accept them too. I'm not sure about the M6. The M5 does not accept them, neither does the "new" MP.
Erik.
Erik.
Richard G
Veteran
I think this a fine observation. "Full frame" RF . It is fantastic. I went out with a IIIf on my bicycle this afternoon. M5 2 lug: not good for cycling. Digital M: too big and too precious to risk a crash. M2: if I didn't have such attachment to it. I have taken the M6 cycling on a short A&A leather strap.
The size of the IIIf is wonderful. My II without strap lugs or strap fits so much more easily into a pocket. Scale focus and the SBOOI with 50 makes the Barnack perhaps the quickest street shooter there is, always on and simple controls. No mode problems.
cassel
Well-known
I found a picture of the old black IIIa that I had! - I forget it had a SS number and NYC scratched on top! Does the shutter dial look nickel or chrome to you? It does go to 1000...
https://www.rangefinderforum.com/filedata/fetch?id=4386165
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The number is from a chrome Standard from 1934, but it is clearly a IIIa. In my eyes the shutter dial is nickel, but the release button and the strap lugs could be chrome.
Erik.
Erik.
cassel
Well-known
I was VERY sad when this was stolen - it had a SBOOI and a Nikkor 5cm attached at the time. It was a cool camera - wish I still had - at a minimum I hope it was not lost/trashed/destroyed in years since... I got an insurance check for all the gear stolen (lots) and bought a M4-P and a Zeiss Planar for a European holiday. Sold those on my way back to LTMs.
Shac
Well-known
Hi Erik - recently in a post you wrote “The earlier models, I, II, III and IIIa/IIIb are extremely solid and last forever. The IIIc, IIIf and IIIg are less tough.” Might I ask in what way you feel they are built tougher?
Thank you in advance
David
Thank you in advance
David
Dralowid
Michael
Cassel, that is a very nice camera, shame it was stolen. The number is however very odd. To convert from a chrome Standard to a black IIIa is indeed radical!
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The IIIc, IIIf and IIIg are finer built inside, with a lot more fine parts. Try to get a look when somebody opens these cameras. The I, II, III and IIIa are very simple in construction, but the parts are very high-quality, take the screws for example. The later cameras contain more fine parts that break easily. Simply said, this is it. Erik.
webOSUser
Well-known
A Barnack Leica or clone with a collapsible lens is a nice compact second camera to tuck in your bag.
Steve W
Steve W
Shac
Well-known
Thank you Erik - now I understand
qqphotos
Well-known
On the IIIg the parallax-corrected viewfinder with actual framelines plus the 1.5x magnified rangefinder are a perfect combination for me, particularly with the relative ease of keeping the rangefinder adjusted precisely. I love knowing I can focus critically and make a 16x20 print that looks great even up close.
It's just disheartening that really anything to do with the brand is so absurdly expensive now that they're being traded like baseball cards. I have a 1949 Summitar that's always slightly out of focus at the right edge of the frame but otherwise ok - but prices of any other period-appropriate lens are prohibitive. I mostly use a "modern" 50mm f/3.5 Heliar instead, which is great optically but very clunky to use.
It's just disheartening that really anything to do with the brand is so absurdly expensive now that they're being traded like baseball cards. I have a 1949 Summitar that's always slightly out of focus at the right edge of the frame but otherwise ok - but prices of any other period-appropriate lens are prohibitive. I mostly use a "modern" 50mm f/3.5 Heliar instead, which is great optically but very clunky to use.
Saganich
Established
Agreed, and it's become rare that the equipment gets tested or is given descriptions with useful information. It was easier 10 years ago to take a chance because there were more than enough people who could adjust shutters, lube helicoids, and defog elements, but lately, I worry that the collective expertise is drying up. Sigh.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
This is not completely true. Look on YouTube!
There are now manuals too that helps to repair Leicas, for instance those by Noboyuki (Nobbysparrow). Parts are not too difficult to get. Look on eBay (Nobbysparrow). When you have problems, he helps and he has items on YouTube that are really useful. Adjusting the shutter speeds on the early Leicas is not hard to do. There are also older books, but these still can be found secondhand. There also is the Leica camera repair handbook by Thomas Tomosy.
Erik.
webOSUser
Well-known
I like putting a Barnack Leica, or clone, with a collapsing lens in my camera bag with a film different than the main film that I am shooting that day. It is not much bigger then my Gossen lightmeter. And if I am shooting B&W and I see something that would look better in color, out comes the Barnack.
Steve W
Steve W
Saganich
Established
Thanks for your optimism. Sometimes I watch those tube vids and just shake my head after the 15th tiny thing is removed.
raydm6
Yay! Cameras! 🙈🙉🙊┌( ಠ_ಠ)┘ [◉"]
Nothing to see here... ...just a beautiful Leica 1a (S/N: 5024) at the National Museum of American History.
Leica 35 mm 1(A) Camera
The enamel paint looks pristine. Is this all original?
Leica 35 mm 1(A) Camera
The enamel paint looks pristine. Is this all original?
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
To address a few things mentioned in previous posts:
Loading can be very easy - I can load film in under 20 seconds - all you do is first ensure the film is trimmed with the long narrow leader as shown on the diagram (on the camera’s bottom), then when inserting the film merely ensure that a sprocket hole on the film has engaged a sprocket on the cylinder. Wind slightly to ensure the film moves. That’s it. Close it up and go.
As for winding film, that can be done even faster than with a lever: rather than use your thumb and forefinger, just slide the side of your finger rapidly against the serrated winding knob. However, I prefer the more genteel slower approach.
Loading can be very easy - I can load film in under 20 seconds - all you do is first ensure the film is trimmed with the long narrow leader as shown on the diagram (on the camera’s bottom), then when inserting the film merely ensure that a sprocket hole on the film has engaged a sprocket on the cylinder. Wind slightly to ensure the film moves. That’s it. Close it up and go.
As for winding film, that can be done even faster than with a lever: rather than use your thumb and forefinger, just slide the side of your finger rapidly against the serrated winding knob. However, I prefer the more genteel slower approach.
