Joao
Negativistic forever
Hello
I was told that there was a difference between a 6 volt cilinder battery and four 1.5 volt button cells. The difference was sometyhing related to the "outflow of electric current" , independent of the voltage. The camera would work with both options , but the four-cell solution would be more "healthy" and "less demanding " to the camera. As I'm certainly not an expert on electricity matters, I woulkd like to know if there is something true in the above statement - or if it is only a matter of theory without practical consequences.
Thank you in advance
Joao
I was told that there was a difference between a 6 volt cilinder battery and four 1.5 volt button cells. The difference was sometyhing related to the "outflow of electric current" , independent of the voltage. The camera would work with both options , but the four-cell solution would be more "healthy" and "less demanding " to the camera. As I'm certainly not an expert on electricity matters, I woulkd like to know if there is something true in the above statement - or if it is only a matter of theory without practical consequences.
Thank you in advance
Joao
kully
Happy Snapper
I'm pretty sure that is rubbish in the real world. When I had a GTN I used four SR44 batteries cellotaped toghether, a 4SR44 battery with padding and finally a Yashica Guy adapter. All worked the same.
Bluesman
Richard
Rubbish? Well, there might just be a grain of truth in this - not all batteries deliver the same constant current and/or voltage over time, and especially when they are getting near exhaustion. Some die very quickly once they approach the edge, others die slowly. The "die quickly" ones are better, IMHO, because they don´t give you wrong meter indications for a long time (and exposures in the case of the Electro). I can´t say which types are which, but some are definitely better than others.
My 2 cents.
/Richard
My 2 cents.
/Richard
carlol
Newbie
hi guys,
whats your experience on the average life of batteries? I use 4xLR44 (maxell) and the first batch died on me after less than a month or just about 3 rolls. The next set of 4xLR44's (energizers) i used also seem to be showing inconsistent intensity of the test light when pressing the "battery test" button. Sometimes it glows brightly, sometimes dimly. When it starts to dim, I unscrew the battery cap and return it and it returns to normal.
Is there a chance that the DIY spacers/spring setup drain the batteries? I use 6 coins + a spring as spacers, aside from a foam wrap around the LR44's to make the diameter fit the chamber.
whats your experience on the average life of batteries? I use 4xLR44 (maxell) and the first batch died on me after less than a month or just about 3 rolls. The next set of 4xLR44's (energizers) i used also seem to be showing inconsistent intensity of the test light when pressing the "battery test" button. Sometimes it glows brightly, sometimes dimly. When it starts to dim, I unscrew the battery cap and return it and it returns to normal.
Is there a chance that the DIY spacers/spring setup drain the batteries? I use 6 coins + a spring as spacers, aside from a foam wrap around the LR44's to make the diameter fit the chamber.
btgc
Veteran
I bought kodak's 28L 6V lithium, kinda expensive, but hope it will run for money. I could try 4xSR44 rather instead of 4xLR44.
morfic
Member
What's the accuracy of a 6V battery compared to the 5.6V original battery?
4x1.4V seems to be the best solution then, unless 6V is still accurate enough?
4x1.4V seems to be the best solution then, unless 6V is still accurate enough?
btgc
Veteran
1.4V hearing aid batteries should have significantly shorter lifespan compared to 4x(LR44/SR44) or single 6V. On flickr in Electro 35 group there's nice explanation that changes in voltage shift exposure so miserable, that it can be ignored with negative.
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morfic
Member
Then it's good i ordered myself some battery adapters.
I figured either it's off and i cheat on the iso, or it's not so bad and then it's ok anyway.
I figured either it's off and i cheat on the iso, or it's not so bad and then it's ok anyway.
zeca61
Newbie
Well, acording to a bunch of websites the electro 35's circuit will work fine w/ a voltage ranging from 4.9v up to 6v(or more, if I'm not mistaken).
I recall during the seventies, when mercury batteries were too expensive and not easy to find (specially in Brazil, the place where I was leaving during that time.) some brands had 5.6v but others "only" 5.4v, and they were sold as "original factory specs" replacements.
Since that time, I've heard about users having success finding alternative ways to power their Yashicas.
Today, most people use the smaller PX28x(6 volts) plus a commercial adapter. They claim there is no problem about light meter discrepancy, short battery life or "lack" of current flow.
But there are more alternatives: one cr123a plus a px625a. The author assures it works fine, despite the voltage provided is only 4.5v or so.
Using that idea as a start point, but not having those batteries in hand, I just made one experience using the only ones I had avaliable.
I used one lithium CR2(3 volts) from my Canon Rebel plus a half-ass 3 volts small lithium battery from my nikon EM. Since both batteries are much smaller than the original mercury or even the px28, I've surrounded both w/ carton strips plus a small spring at the upper end to assure good electrical contact. Everything worked fine.:-D
Using that setup, I've got a little less than 6 volts, mostly because my smaller lithium is really old.
---
Makes sense people saying the Electro 35 has a great tolerance in the input voltage and will work fine no matter the voltage is 5.1v, 5.5v or even 6v.
It's electronic circuit is very primitive, having nothing more than 5 or six transistors (active components) and some resistors and capacitors (passive components). I believe the voltage is really not critical and voltage discrepancies will not alter the circuit performance or accuracy.
Now, talking about current-demmand(mA): The most "hungry" component is the magnet (but again, it does not need precise dc volt input).
Under normal use, the camera drains about 50-70 ma during operation. There is more details about this avaliable on the net. I've download some techinal stuff, but I'm not able to locate those files now, to give you more info about the electrical circuit.
----
To make the Electro save yet more battery energy I had one crazy idea last week: Replace all 3 lamps by clear leds. This will save a considerable amount of battery power and even can be used in those cases when the lamp just burned. (it will need a little mod, adding a 100R, 1/8w resistor in series, but still a very easy task to acomplish).
If I'm not mistaken, the original mercury battery was capable of providing a current of about 500-600mA at best. Remember, size here does not matter. Mercury batteries are old technology (sixties) and modern lithium batteries are smaller but in current capacity they are strong enough to power Electro's circuit.
Just for the record: the CR2 has only half of CR123's capacity (in mA).
Best regards,
Zack (ZK)
I recall during the seventies, when mercury batteries were too expensive and not easy to find (specially in Brazil, the place where I was leaving during that time.) some brands had 5.6v but others "only" 5.4v, and they were sold as "original factory specs" replacements.
Since that time, I've heard about users having success finding alternative ways to power their Yashicas.
Today, most people use the smaller PX28x(6 volts) plus a commercial adapter. They claim there is no problem about light meter discrepancy, short battery life or "lack" of current flow.
But there are more alternatives: one cr123a plus a px625a. The author assures it works fine, despite the voltage provided is only 4.5v or so.
Using that idea as a start point, but not having those batteries in hand, I just made one experience using the only ones I had avaliable.
I used one lithium CR2(3 volts) from my Canon Rebel plus a half-ass 3 volts small lithium battery from my nikon EM. Since both batteries are much smaller than the original mercury or even the px28, I've surrounded both w/ carton strips plus a small spring at the upper end to assure good electrical contact. Everything worked fine.:-D
Using that setup, I've got a little less than 6 volts, mostly because my smaller lithium is really old.
---
Makes sense people saying the Electro 35 has a great tolerance in the input voltage and will work fine no matter the voltage is 5.1v, 5.5v or even 6v.
It's electronic circuit is very primitive, having nothing more than 5 or six transistors (active components) and some resistors and capacitors (passive components). I believe the voltage is really not critical and voltage discrepancies will not alter the circuit performance or accuracy.
Now, talking about current-demmand(mA): The most "hungry" component is the magnet (but again, it does not need precise dc volt input).
Under normal use, the camera drains about 50-70 ma during operation. There is more details about this avaliable on the net. I've download some techinal stuff, but I'm not able to locate those files now, to give you more info about the electrical circuit.
----
To make the Electro save yet more battery energy I had one crazy idea last week: Replace all 3 lamps by clear leds. This will save a considerable amount of battery power and even can be used in those cases when the lamp just burned. (it will need a little mod, adding a 100R, 1/8w resistor in series, but still a very easy task to acomplish).
If I'm not mistaken, the original mercury battery was capable of providing a current of about 500-600mA at best. Remember, size here does not matter. Mercury batteries are old technology (sixties) and modern lithium batteries are smaller but in current capacity they are strong enough to power Electro's circuit.
Just for the record: the CR2 has only half of CR123's capacity (in mA).
Best regards,
Zack (ZK)
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
Joao said:
The GSN has a bridge circuit built into it (a voltage regulator). Anything you can stuff into it that is anywhere around 6 volts will work fine. You might have trouble with some of Yashica's other cameras, that don't have bridge circuits (like maybe a Lynx), but I wouldn't worry about the GSN.