Berlin and Amsterdam in October

[Matt(1pt4)]

My girlfriend and I will be spending the last two weeks of October in Berlin and Amsterdam, a week in each. I've got a pile of guide books and maps, and enough German and Dutch to order beers, but any information from folks that have been would be appreciated. Things to see, places to eat, etc etc etc.

In Amsterdam we are staying in the Jordaan area and in Savigny Plaz in Berlin.

For gear, I'll be taking an M6TTL and a pile of TriX. I haven't decided on lenses yet, but it will either be the 50 Hex, CV 35 1.4 or both. If anyone has any thoughts on a good travel bag to carry and an RF with an extra lens, film, a guide book and a map, I'd love to hear it. I've tried everything from the Domke F5XB to a Billingham Hadley. All have been too heavy for such light gear.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

I just did a trip like yours last summer, and during the whole time, I carried two leicas in my FX5B. Both with wide-angle lenses mounted, but I had a 90/f2 in the bag and a flash just in case (flash almost never left the bag, other lens... just once or twice).

As for other things... I can speak about Amsterdam because I spent about 10 days there.

- No need to order anything in Dutch. Amsterdamers are fluent in English (and other languages).

- Jordaan is a beautiful area, but don't forget to check the Monday neighborhood market near Nordekerk.

- Another neighborhood worth a visit: the Spui (pronounced "spaw").

- Walk along the Prinzengraacht; it's a beautiful canal. And, while in Amsterdam, don't miss the Dam: it's a huge plaza near the former stock market, and only a stone's throw from the red light district (which has a nice church, the Oudekerk, with very nice, textured interiors).

- DO NOT PHOTOGRAPH THE WOMEN IN THE RED LIGHT DISTRICT (AKA WALLETJES, OR THE WALLS). It's a weird place to walk about, but, to be quite honest, there are lots of better things to see and do.

- Somewhere in the Jordaan there's an area called something like "the little four streets" littered with small restaurants. I remember walking down the Prinzengraacht (which was near my hotel on the Overdoom) and finding all kinds of places to eat. There's one very Dutch place, called "By Uns" (something similar to that) in which you can order Stammpot and Dutch beer. The owners are extremely accomodating. Another specialty you should try: fried mussels. And don't forget Hoegaarden beer. Yes, it's Belgian, but it's great and it's wheat beer! 🙂

If you can take a train to Haarlem, don't miss the chance to see the St Bevo Church and try to listen to the organ.

Here are some of my visual souvenirs. Amsterdam must be a gorgeous place in the fall... Just one thing: beware of the prices. Holland is EXPENSIVE compared to the rest of Europe. Your euros will go a looooong way further in Berlin than in Amsterdam, but the experience is worth it.

Amsterdam under the rain. This is near the FOAM, a photography museum you want to visit.

Here, bikes, bikes and more bikes...

Finally, a reason to visit the Spui during their market day: an impromptu rendition of Vivaldi's Fall, in the hands of a gifted violinist... (one of my few 90mm shots)

You will enjoy Amsterda. I did! Later, I'll get back to you about Berlin (where I want to return).

Take care!

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Before I forget...

Take some color film. It'll come in handy. Besides, sunsets in the canals are just gorgeous.

Now, my gear was two M6TTL bodies, one with an Elmarit 28mm and the other with a Summilux 35mm. I always carried an additional long lens, either my Summicron 90 or my Elmarit 135. Fim of choice? Kodachrome ISO 200 and Ektachrome 100 and 200, but I also loaded on Agfa APX 400 and Scala 200.

 

[Igor.Burshteyn]

Amsterdam is a nice city but beware of thieves. I was careless once, it cost me new flight tickets and additional unexpected 4-day stay (and from that time on my family uses Hague-issued foreign passports).

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

Igor, I travel light, which makes it a bit easier to keep an eye on my stuff, but I'll be vigilant none the less.

Solares, great photos, and thanks for the trip. We'd be thinking a trip to Haarlem might be in order. I know 'everyone' speaks English, but I like making a fool myself by at least trying to speak a bit of the local language. If nothing else, it makes directions and menus easier to handle, and it's fun.. That said, I went to Japan without even know how to say hello, but I seem to have survived.

 

[Rogier]

Bring a raincoat!

As cheesy as is might sound do a canal tour!
Close to the Central Railway station you can rent GPS guided city walks, exellent!
"Albert Kuyp Market" is almost every day. You will love it.
While you are there try some "Poffertjes" these are delicioius mini pancakes.

Stay clear from the big commercial "Coffee shops" like the Buldog. If you want a true experience go to the local ones in area's like "De PijP" or "Jordaan". Its quite different. Piecefull and kind service. Even if you don't smoke you can get a great coffee or juice. You will see all ranks and flavors of society stop by at the end of the afternoon to wind down after a hard day at work. Google for the good ones and steer clear from the loud ones.

Take the Tain to Haarlem (like a 20 min ride) and see the Cathedral. And many other things. Its like Amsterdam picture perfect ;-)

An other Dutch City to see is way in the South an incredible 2 hour train ride. Called Maastricht (that's where I am from ;-)

Rogier
San Francisco, CA

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

If I see Sabine, I'll be sure to say hi ;-)

'Bring a raincoat!'

I'd been wondering about the weather. The guide books are a little vague, 40-60F with lots of rain, but that's a fairly wide comfort range. I'll probably pack for cold and wet.

 

[Borghesia]

I've been to Berlin which is a very nice city to wander and be, but I live in Haarlem and work in A'dam so I will give you some information of these to cities.

First of all, rent a bike in A'dam, so you will get the dutch feeling. Give yourself time to adapt to the biking customs, be conscious of all the traffic around you.
Take a sightseeing trip by boat, this is a visitors must.

Places to visit : indeed the Jordaan, very authentic and cosy, plenty nice little shops and restaurant and bars (actually the centre is littered with restaurants and bars).
Vondelpark, easy going park with great terraces and fine cinema playing old fashioned movies.
Oosterpark, multicultiral park situated in a multicultural neighborhood.
Albert Cuyp market, very long market with the typical amsterdam natives, situated in Quarter "De Pijp" , which is very native as well.
Java island, modern architecture quarter.
IJburg, new part of the city constructed on a piece of a lake, if you like architecture, this is good place.
NDSM terrain, get there free with a ferry from behind the central station. Visit the IJ kantine to have a lunch and take rural pictures of the old industrial buildings.
Red light district, yes there is a strange atmosphere around here. But remember that 70% of the girls and women that work there are victims of criminal gangs and are slaves.
Museum: FOAM, great photograpghic museum, order the excellent selfmade pastry. Stedelijk museum, have to see museum of modern art.
Museum van Loon, this is a nobleman's house in its original state.
Amsterdam Historisch museum, museum of life in A'dam, here you can find information for citywalks.
Actually everything in the centre of Amsterdam is nice, it's a compact centre which is very energetic and scenic.

Nightlife: get informed by the "Uitburo" at de Leidseplein, they will help you in your likings.
I like the Paradiso and Melkweg.
Be careful at night, avoid taking cabs. All distances can be walked anyway.
Movies : Go to Tushinsky (beautifull art deco builing). Cinema "The Movies" for alternative movies and dining etc...

Haarlem, 15 train minutes from A'dam, 6 trains per hour.
Nice inner city, medieval. Just stroll around there are much restaurants in H'lem. Best restaurants : La Forca (excellent traditional italian rest.), Restaurant Ghandi (considered one of the best indian restaurants in Holland), De lachende Javaan (indonesian kitchen).

Amsterdam/Haarlem differs from Berlin in being situated near the sea.
We have very nice sandy beaches which are a great place to take a breath. In Bloemendaal and Zandvoort there are trendy beachclubs, in which you can hang around.
A combination of Haarlem and the beach is recommended

So this is maybe portion of what I wanted to direct you, but I think you can have fun with these allready.

Have a nice time.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

I went to the flea market in Waterlooplein... and was very underwhelmed. The Monday market in the Spui, that ends (or starts) by the Nordekerk was a lot more original and less opportunistic. I didn't have a chance to go to Albert Cuyp, but I'd be back to the one I like in a heartbeat.

Again, provided you're there on a Monday.

Now, you want to keep an eye on your things anywhere you go in Europe, as thieves (not robbers) are on the loose and ready to take anything that's not bolted down. However, despiite the relative safety, if you go and exchange money in Amsterdam or Berlin, make sure that nobody is out there waiting for you to step out of the office; when I was there with my wife, I went to an exchange office to get euros and my wife noticed a man hanging out by the entrance. She insisted that we stayed in the office near the cashiers, until a couple of policemen walked by; when they passed by the office, we stepped out and the guy left, going the opposite direction.

Now, I should add that Berlin is a gorgeous town, but I failed to see its photogenic side. You may want to take a tour (there are lots of them, and they usually start in the Kurfursterdam, or K'dam). It'll help you get your bearings in a laaarge city like Berlin. It seems to be always in some kind of construction, but if it's at all possible for you, go to the Sony Center in Postdammerplatz for some postmodern architecture (and good grup!). Prices won't be as high as in A'dam, but cultural life doesn't lag behind. Who knows, maybe you manage to listen to the Berlin Philarmonic, like we did.

I'll try to post some photos later.

Don't forget the Reichstag dome and the Brandenburg gate in Pariserplatz! 🙂 Checkpoint Charlie can be photographed from the bus. The wall... is awe inspiring because it's weird. There are several spots in the city where you can see parts of it, but the longest one is towards the Southeast. I'll ask my wife if she remembers the metro station from which one gets off to see it.

If you arrive in Berlin by train, you'll see the new train station. It's great!

 

[SolaresLarrave]

When in Berlin, you MUST go into the KDW. That is (supposed to mean) Kaufhaus des Westens, or Department Store of the West. Some 5,000 types of cheese and around 300 types of sausage in the food level (sixth, if I remember correctly), where you also can have a nice dinner if you wish. In the photography section they had a Leica M8 on display, and several M lenses (Elmarit 24mm included).

The employee saw my hungry look at those wares, and he said something (cannot recall whether in English or German) along the lines of "May I help" and I simply said "Nein, danke, es ist wunderbar..."

He didn't smile. He wasn't the wunderbar kind.

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

'Keep your important stuff inside your jacket in a zipped pocket if possible (e.g. wallet, passport) or better yet, locked in a safe in the hotel and just bring some cash, ID (license) and a credit/debit card.'

That was my plan. It's worked everywhere else I've been.

The Reichstag is definitely on the list, and KDW sounds interesting as well.

We will be a full week in each city, so I'll have time to check out the markets on their various days.

We are taking the train between Amsterdam and Berlin. I'm assuming we will be able to get tickets once we get there.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Buy your tickets in Amsterdam the day before. I cannot recall the schedules but there seems to be a daily train to Berlin. The ride is about 4 or 6 hours, but in those trains time really flies.

Now... chairs in a "touristy" section of Berlin, called Nikolaiviertel (M6TTL, 'lux 35 on Portra ISO 400)

Then... the river, seen through the leaves below a bridge in Postdammerstrasse, half a mile away from Postdammerplatz (M6TTL, Elmarit 28, Agfa APX 400).

A nice spot in Berlin is the Hackischehöffe, near Hackermarkt (I must me mispelling all of this). The Hackischehöffe is a series of "passages" with stores and cute cafés, all inteconnected and within a block. This is not a photo of the place, but of the market nearby, in which my wife (in pic, middle, slightly bent) bought a frog entirely made of silver spoons from a French artist.

Finally, the Reichstag dome (same rig), from the entrance level, looking upwards.

Don't miss a chance to have a Berlinerweissen (wheat beer with either raspberry or mint syrup, which means it can be rot or grun), in case you're there in a hot (not warm) day. The concoction may sound gross, but, believe me, I saw lots of people drink it, and I liked it when I tried. As you know, when in Rome...

BTW, I have looked at your blog and bookmarked it in mine. 🙂

 

[SolaresLarrave]

If I see Sabine, I'll be sure to say hi ;-)

'Bring a raincoat!'

I'd been wondering about the weather. The guide books are a little vague, 40-60F with lots of rain, but that's a fairly wide comfort range. I'll probably pack for cold and wet.

It's October. Pack a sweater (wool, merino preferably, because it's ligher and easier to pack) for the dry days, and a windbreaker or any kind of jacket that's water repellant and has a hood for the wet ones.

For your valuables, buy a travel wallet, the kind you slip inside your clothes. I have one, and I carried there my passport (you're required to have proof of ID), cash and credit cards. In my front pocket I only had a wallet with a little cash (say, around 20 or 30 euros) and nothing else. If something happened, I simply lost the wallet and the cash for the day.

Click HERE to get one.

I really wish I could go back again...

 

[Florian1234]

As for Berlin and if your're interested in books about art, movies or architecture: don't miss the Bücherbogen shop at Savigny Platz, built into the arcs of the S-Bahn station.
I spent four days in Berlin last month and loved that shop for its photography books.
The Hackesche Höfe area is also quite cool. And the place around Bahnhof (station) Friedrichstrasse, too. Also for street photography. 😉

See my flickr photostream for my results from that trip. 😀

 

[Windscale]

Must take some colour films, especially to Amsterdam where everything is colourful, flowers, buildings. A stark contrast to many places in Berlin which still reminds one of the WWII.

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

As for Berlin and if your're interested in books about art, movies or architecture: don't miss the Bücherbogen shop at Savigny Platz, built into the arcs of the S-Bahn station.
I spent four days in Berlin last month and loved that shop for its photography books.
The Hackesche Höfe area is also quite cool. And the place around Bahnhof (station) Friedrichstrasse, too. Also for street photography. 😉

See my flickr photostream for my results from that trip. 😀

Thanks for the bookstore recommendation. I always like to have things like that available for when the weather gets nasty or the feet give out.

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

It sounds like there are a lot of votes for color film. Perhaps I'll take a few rolls. I haven't shot any color film in years. Do they still make Provia 100?

 

[Matt(1pt4)]

Apparently, they do still make Provia 100. I can probably swing a couple of rolls of that.

 

[Berliner]

FOAM in A'Dam 'Fotography Museum Amsterdam'--Check what's going on. Not too far from the Jordaan--But just wander those amazing canals, you'll need LOTS of film.

In Berlin--Check out the '36 Olympic Stadion, Potsdammer Platz, and if you are in for some heavy duty history--Sachenhausen, about 20 minute train ride out of the city--

You'll need a fall raincoat, A'dam can be walked very easily, in Berlin the S or U Bahn will take you anywhere you need to go--Berlin's very expensive--even by European standards--A'Dam less so.

Two GREAT cities--Enjoy

 

[Krosya]

While I'm not near as knowledgeable about Amsterdam as other, I have been there about 7 or 8 times. I love the city. I dont know the names, dont remember the restaurants or hotels. I do have some visual memories, where I can get around well enough, but dont keep names in my head. I have my own approach to it - just wonder around and see what happens. At the time you plan on being there you may encounter some rainy weather. I'd advise against the bike rental - you really need to know the city and how things are done - I tried to drive there a couple of times - now I know better and just leave the car at the parking, or dont rent at all. I always took cabs if I was too lazy to walk or didnt know how to get to wherever I wanted to go. Taxi drivers, in my experience, know everything and will have a good advice for you. You just need to kinda be frindly with them. Several times I got lost there, even in a middle of the night and with lots of camera gear - and never had any problems. SOme guys tried to sell me some drugs, but simple - "no, thank you!" was good enough.
Red Lights - if you are openminded at all - is a must see. They have some shows and such. It's not just about "visiting a girl". They have other cool bars and shops there. Taking pictures can get you in trouble - I didnt, but seen people do it.
Oh and as far as "girls are slaves" - well, I dont know, but back in my single days, I met a girl there, who worked at Red Lights, we had a nice conversation and than she agreed to show me around town a bit in a next few days. And I didnt have to pay for it, other than buy us a few meals and such. So, I suppose it depends on a number of things, really. 😉 Although there was one drawback to that - I didnt take any pics that time I was there. 😉
All in all - it's a cool place to relax and have fun. I, personally hate to pre-plan things that I have to see and visit. I just go with the flow and this attitude gave me some cool adventures in the past - Amstedam as well as other places.
Also, AMsterdam, just like many places in Europe, is a great place for "people watching". I liked to just park myself at one of the outdoor cooffee shops and just observe, snap a pic every so often. Have a good coffee or beer, listen to some street musicians. Even strike a conversation with some people you dont know, - all very nice ways to spend time. I like it rather laid-back. Makes me feel the city and it's people better. Just another way of doing things.....