FrankS
Registered User
patrickjames said:These are in no way a light leak. If you had a light leak the spots would be black on the neg and these spots are clear. You have a development problem that is all. You probably did not put enough developer in the tank or your agitation was nil. Try another roll. Everything should be fine. Stop wasting your time trying to find a light leak.
Patrick
Duh! :bang: (towards me)
Patrick and Andrew are correct. A light leak would be darker on the neg.
Buster 6X6
Member
Thanks every one for your imput. Just to note three weeks ago I went on eBay and bought another Bessa I from Australia. I took both cameras out to shut with the same film and the same subject and exposure.Developed film in same drum with the same developer same aggitation. New Bessa no problem Certo6 Bessa ,bloches. I also have Kodak 120 folder and two Blads. no bloches on any of there negatives except on Certo6 Bessa.I am baffeled. If bloches were only appearing occasionally I could except developing problem.
Very good imput I hope I can come with the solution because I can even think of selling this body with the problem it has.
Greg
Very good imput I hope I can come with the solution because I can even think of selling this body with the problem it has.
Greg
Buster 6X6
Member
After I read all the post's what Patrick said makes sense. I went back and cheked all 10 or 12 negatives I shot with this camera so far only three have bloches on all frames about three have faint bloches much smaller and one has almost like a 1mm line on the bottom of the negative.
The confusing part is that I developed all my negatives the same in same developer either Rodinal 1:100 for 18 min or Pyrocat-MC depending on the film from 8-13 min . No problem with any other camera negative but this one.
Thank you very much for all your suggestions it was very helpful and eye opening.
Greg
The confusing part is that I developed all my negatives the same in same developer either Rodinal 1:100 for 18 min or Pyrocat-MC depending on the film from 8-13 min . No problem with any other camera negative but this one.
Thank you very much for all your suggestions it was very helpful and eye opening.
Greg
Buster 6X6
Member
Hi everyone.
After our conversation and discussion. I spooled in a new film in the camera last knight and took it to work this morning. Tonight I developed the film as I normaly do in Rodinal. No bloches!
So I have to asume it was developing problem all along, strange that only film from this camera had a problem but never the less I want to thank everyone who gave me advise and took time to help me solve this problem. I should appologize to Jurgen for assuming something was wrong with the camera
. Now I have two beautiful Bessa's. One I can put in a color film and one with B/W
.
Cheers Greg
After our conversation and discussion. I spooled in a new film in the camera last knight and took it to work this morning. Tonight I developed the film as I normaly do in Rodinal. No bloches!
So I have to asume it was developing problem all along, strange that only film from this camera had a problem but never the less I want to thank everyone who gave me advise and took time to help me solve this problem. I should appologize to Jurgen for assuming something was wrong with the camera
Cheers Greg
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Buster 6X6 said:Hi everyone.
After our conversation and discussion. I spooled in a new film in the camera last knight and took it to work this morning. Tonight I developed the film as I normaly do in Rodinal. No bloches!
So I have to asume it was developing problem all along, strange that only film from this camera had a problem but never the less I want to thank everyone who gave me advise and took time to help me solve this problem. I should appologize to Jurgen for assuming something was wrong with the camera. Now I have two beautiful Bessa's. One I can put in a color film and one with B/W
.
Cheers Greg
Probably oil from the camera got on the film somewhere.
Buster 6X6
Member
It is a possibility, it would explain that only this camera has bloches when film is developed.
Thanks Greg
Thanks Greg
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Buster 6X6 said:There are the negatives.
Greg
Looking very carefully at the negatives, it seems to me that something either is blocking the light path to the bottom edge of the film frame (check for little tag ends of leatherette or bellows liner material protruding into the light path), or that something has gotten onto the film that is keeping the developer from getting at it (like a dirty or oily roller on the developing machine). It is not a light leak, since light leaks turn film black.
Buster 6X6
Member
FallisPhoto Thanks, I will spool in another roll of film and follow your suggestions an see if I can repeat no bloches negative I will also check for oil on the rollers.
Greg
Greg
ricc
Member
Any chance that you are forgetting to close the red window on the back of the camera after advancing film?
Ric Carter
Ric Carter
FallisPhoto
Veteran
ricc said:Any chance that you are forgetting to close the red window on the back of the camera after advancing film?
Ric Carter
Any kind of light leak, including a leak from the red window, would cause dark splotches; these are light. Something is either blocking the light from getting to the film there or something is preventing developer from getting at it.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Buster 6X6 said:FallisPhoto Thanks, I will spool in another roll of film and follow your suggestions an see if I can repeat no bloches negative I will also check for oil on the rollers.
Greg
One other possibility occurs to me. Is there any chance that when you developed the film that there was not enough chemistry in the tank and the edge of the film was sitcking up out of the developer?
Buster 6X6
Member
As I said before I made sure when developing there is enough developer and proper agitation is performed. If something is blocking the light I would think blotches would be visible on all frames and uniform from frame to frame, No?As I can tell it varies from film to film. Sometimes is hardly visible and other times is pronounced. Go figure :bang: The other Bessa I I have ,no problem at all.
Thanks Greg
Thanks Greg
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Buster 6X6 said:As I said before I made sure when developing there is enough developer and proper agitation is performed. If something is blocking the light I would think blotches would be visible on all frames and uniform from frame to frame, No?As I can tell it varies from film to film. Sometimes is hardly visible and other times is pronounced. Go figure :bang: The other Bessa I I have ,no problem at all.
Thanks Greg
Well, it is absolutely certain that it is not a light leak. A light leak (or any other kind of severe overexposure) would turn your film black, not white. Either something is blocking the light along the edge of your film, or something (like oil) is blocking the developer from getting to the film. There simply are no other explainations that would account for those pale spots.
Given that, I'm wondering if one or more folds of the bellows he installed are somehow intruding slightly into the light path. Maybe it is slightly undersized or has larger than normal folds? Can you post a photo of the camera (front and open back)?
Buster 6X6
Member
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Buster 6X6 said:I could not find anything wrong at least for my experience. There are the photos.
Greg
Okay, first off, you don't have new bellows; those are the original Voigtlander bellows, and you don't have anything protruding into the light path. I was assuming that he had done a complete rebuild, but that isn't the case. That means Jurgen has only had a very limited number of ways in which to screw up. He removed the top, cleaned the viewfinder and removed the old oil and grease and replaced it. There is no possibility of this being the cause of your problem, so that isn't it. Then he removed the lens and shutter and cleaned them. This is where something must have gone wrong, because I just don't see any other possibility. According to his website, he uses a vibrator cleaner to do this. I am going to assume he then took the plate off of the shutter and relubed it. Then hebolted the plate back, reattached the shutter and screwed the lenses back in. The only thing I can think of that he might have messed up on, and that could have caused this problem, is that the lens/shutter isn't sitting quite true (flat to the standard and tight against it). That is kind of a rookie mistake, and I find it difficult to believe that someone who has done as many of these as he has did that, but if that isn't it, then the only thing I can think of is that the standard itself isn't quite true. If that isn't it, then I am at a loss.
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Buster 6X6
Member
Fallis Photo thanks for your continuing interest. Today I removed the lens from Jurgens camera and replaced with a lens from the camera I bought on eBay. I have to find some time now and go expose a roll of film with both cameras and see if that is going to make a difference.
Jurgen did clean the shutter but for somebody that works with these cameras he missed checking camera over, if he did he would have found the missing screw in a spooling chamber which I replaced after first roll of film. Also he would have noticed the blotches on the film. Well I will scratch it to experience. I will report if the change of the lens made a difference.
Greg
Jurgen did clean the shutter but for somebody that works with these cameras he missed checking camera over, if he did he would have found the missing screw in a spooling chamber which I replaced after first roll of film. Also he would have noticed the blotches on the film. Well I will scratch it to experience. I will report if the change of the lens made a difference.
Greg
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
Maybe someone would like to buy my Bessa 1 from Australia for $220 
- or my Perkeo 1, or my fake gold-plated Leica II?
I think there may be a combination of factors - the high dilution rate of the developer would be something I'd reconsider, but the water quality may also be contributing - those little white spots on the negatives look highly suspicious to me. Try a couple of rolls using distilled water in all solutions and see if that makes any difference.
- or my Perkeo 1, or my fake gold-plated Leica II?
I think there may be a combination of factors - the high dilution rate of the developer would be something I'd reconsider, but the water quality may also be contributing - those little white spots on the negatives look highly suspicious to me. Try a couple of rolls using distilled water in all solutions and see if that makes any difference.
Buster 6X6
Member
Hi Leigh
I always use destilled water for developing.
Greg
I always use destilled water for developing.
Greg
Buster 6X6
Member
Finally I found some time to spool film into the camera and expose it. Well... As I said before I removed the lens from Jurgen's camera and installed it into camera from Australia. on three frames the blotches are pronounced. First two frames I did not use compendium . Next 6 frames were exposed with compendium in place. I my humble opinion it's got to be the lens. It looks like a flare but it is going in one line on the bottom of the negative. I am so p..d off because the lens is extremely sharp. If I want to continue to use this lens , I'll have to crop some images :bang: where those blotches appear.
Thanks to all who chimed in Greg
Thanks to all who chimed in Greg
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Buster 6X6 said:Finally I found some time to spool film into the camera and expose it. Well... As I said before I removed the lens from Jurgen's camera and installed it into camera from Australia. on three frames the blotches are pronounced. First two frames I did not use compendium . Next 6 frames were exposed with compendium in place. I my humble opinion it's got to be the lens. It looks like a flare but it is going in one line on the bottom of the negative. I am so p..d off because the lens is extremely sharp. If I want to continue to use this lens , I'll have to crop some images :bang: where those blotches appear.
Thanks to all who chimed in Greg
Compendium?
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